SHOtime2511
CGP
if you hear anything,its going to be too late.
just watch for an oil light flicker at idle,if you see that stop driving it ASAP.
Rod Bearings
- Thread starter haggarSHO
- Start date
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if you hear anything,its going to be too late.
just watch for an oil light flicker at idle,if you see that stop driving it ASAP.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Step 1 is ordering the bearing kit. Once you have the bearings in hand, the swap out takes a decent mechanic about 3 hours. If you are doing it yourself...for the first time... figure on 7 hours.
Hey just wondering if you notice any difference running Mobile One as apposed to conventional motor oil?
Yes, 16 years and 180K miles with it. One problem I had with my SHO is oil seal life, and I theorized that perhaps the PAO based synthetic in Mobil 1 may not be the best choice for seal life on the SHO. So I have switched to conventional Castrol, and we'll see how things go the next 180k miles.
jpSHO
New Member
To be honest I don't think my motor would have lasted as long as it did without running Mobil 1 in it for the past 130,000 miles. Not too mention my trans which I flushed about 75,000 miles ago with Mobil 1. Both have 240,000 miles on them and are running strong.
gmail
Well-Known Member
i cant believe how many people would drive a car at all with a oil light... if for some reason i was ever driving and it came off the key would be off before the bulb got a chance to warm up..
what kind of advice is it to give to someone when they have the oil light come on, "it will be ok drive it the other 10 miles"... that means the rod bearing has spun and the oil hole in the bearing isnt letting oil in to the crank bearing area... in other words dry metal on metal action.
also jpSHO dont mean to come off rude but the type of oil dont make much of a difference when the main problem with the rod bearings going is lack of oil pressure at idle and from what i learned the oil pump hits the bypass at 60 psi.. these engines are limited to from the factory 7300 rpm and 7000 rpm (atx) rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpms...
think of how many times that engine spun to 7000 rpms and hung there without proper oiling?
the reason they call for 10 psi per 1000 rpm is because the faster is spins the less likely the oil is gonna make it into the area needed and at 7000 rpm you dont want lack of oil pressure thats when a lot of things go wrong.
anyone who hasent done their rod bearings and believe its ok to keep driving it to this point because i dont wanna pay for a tow in order to do my rod bearings later... or the mind frame i will do them some other time whatever. when it blows its your fault and you been warned... there is probley 30 + threads to rod bearings.
remember even if the oil light is on for a couple miles whos to say the scratches and gouges in the crank isnt enough to **** the engine off in another 10k - 40k whatever miles. just because you eventually change the rod bearings dont mean thats gonna be the fix now you ran metal to metal.
sometimes its possible its the sensor acting up... who would wanna chance it tho? is it worth it... everyone looks at it as o well now i can put a 3.2 in.
you know the price of properly putting a 3.2 in a car is? im talking 60k buying the engine... seals everything needed?
plan to spend well over $1000 to do it the right way
what kind of advice is it to give to someone when they have the oil light come on, "it will be ok drive it the other 10 miles"... that means the rod bearing has spun and the oil hole in the bearing isnt letting oil in to the crank bearing area... in other words dry metal on metal action.
also jpSHO dont mean to come off rude but the type of oil dont make much of a difference when the main problem with the rod bearings going is lack of oil pressure at idle and from what i learned the oil pump hits the bypass at 60 psi.. these engines are limited to from the factory 7300 rpm and 7000 rpm (atx) rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpms...
think of how many times that engine spun to 7000 rpms and hung there without proper oiling?
the reason they call for 10 psi per 1000 rpm is because the faster is spins the less likely the oil is gonna make it into the area needed and at 7000 rpm you dont want lack of oil pressure thats when a lot of things go wrong.
anyone who hasent done their rod bearings and believe its ok to keep driving it to this point because i dont wanna pay for a tow in order to do my rod bearings later... or the mind frame i will do them some other time whatever. when it blows its your fault and you been warned... there is probley 30 + threads to rod bearings.
remember even if the oil light is on for a couple miles whos to say the scratches and gouges in the crank isnt enough to **** the engine off in another 10k - 40k whatever miles. just because you eventually change the rod bearings dont mean thats gonna be the fix now you ran metal to metal.
sometimes its possible its the sensor acting up... who would wanna chance it tho? is it worth it... everyone looks at it as o well now i can put a 3.2 in.
you know the price of properly putting a 3.2 in a car is? im talking 60k buying the engine... seals everything needed?
plan to spend well over $1000 to do it the right way
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