Well boys it’s all bad news bears

[Austin2013SHO]

I am about to dive into the money pit and weak spot in our platform. I have now went through 2 PTU’s. I have a few buddies that work for Red Bull race team and they are impressed with the car. They are willing to try to make me a bad ass PTU and dive into the trans. I expect it to get very expensive but I’ll keep yall posted on how it goes. My 2nd PTU only lasted 20k miles before it decided to shut the bed again. I am without a doubt certain the torque from hard take off launches is what destroys it so fast. I’ve chalked it up to cost of building a race car and trying to keep up with the big dawgs. Any real advice here is much appreciated. I have purchased a GH torque converter, LSD’s front and back from traction concepts, ray bestos clutches, zip it kit from sonnax as well. My best friend is a service writer at ford and the dealership is impressed but it has no info to advise on how to over come the issue other than keep throwing OEM replacements at it lol

Mod list
Air aide intake
SSM torque mounts
GH intercooler
EPP hot pipes with meth kit (just cooling)
3bar map sensor
170 t stat
E30 tune from GH
XDI fuel pump
PPE high flow down pipes (with cats)
Corsa exhaust
Nitrous express N-tercooler sprayer with 10lb bottle
Melling oil pump (20% more oil flow)
New water pump and timing chain, cam phasers and chains.
New gaskets for intake and valve covers,

Stock turbos (after I graduate in 4 months they will be upgraded to GH.)
Stock injectors (I was told not to mess with them)


Also have some BC coilovers on the way.
Ordered a fuel it Bluetooth sensor also.

I think that’s everything but feel free to ask questions and advise on next steps down the rabbit hole.

 

[SM105K]

Over the years PTU's havent failed because of power. They are either killed with heat mixed with neglected or some type of factory defect (which are incredibly rare). What fluid did you use when you replaced the PTU? Also in extreme peformance or abuse situation the general consensus is to change the fluid every 15k miles.

Here is a very good explanation by a member on here named Mr.HighCaliber.


"PTU's don't fail at least not from a power handling perspective. These only fail from lack of maintenance. Spun bearings and galling of the gears from lack of lubrication.

High Heat dries up the lighter oil molecules in the l u b e , which causes more heat due to lack of lubrication (thermal runaway) which leads to the remaining gear oil turning to thick black paste which clogs up the vent tube in the ptu which cause pressure buildup in the ptu which forces the remaining, non-congealed fluid out past the shaft seals. Now the only left is a thick paste thats easily flung off of the gears, sticking only to the case. After this chain of events, the bearings run dry and begin to fail, next are the gears. Tolerances widen or things begin to sieze. Bearing and gear noise are usually the first signs of mechanical failure.

But the PTU internals are stout. The weakest part of our powertrain is the RDU Atc coupler. (The electronic coupler in the rear differential). At least in terms of tq capacity and power handling."

 

[Austin2013SHO]

I tend to disagree with people on this in particular. The internals of this thing are complete dog shit. Mine has perfectly viscous fluid in it, right now was replaced at 112k not even at 130k miles and it has a bearing in it trying to exit left, it’s humming away like Sunday church choir lol , I had 75-140 ams oil in it. I have been doing some research and calling around and I am trying out a new concept part my guys and myself are building.

They are going to tap into breather hole and put an a fitting on it with an extended y pipe with a valve on one side of the Y pipe and other side still being a breather. When needed open bottom drain and drain close and open valve on top and fill then close and it still act as a breather from other side of Y pipe. Next we are going to isolate the cooling system on it to an auxiliary radiator to have its own independent system prob fill it with engine ice, and have a switch to turn it on and off. I have added a temp sensor to it as well to monitor temps of PTU and be able to cut on aux cooler by demand. Last but biggest one we are trying to figure and if we do is a giant game changer. They were thinking of putting in a oil pump that constantly feeds it new cooled oil and pulls it back to an oil cooler and then continues to pull it cool it and pump it back, our dilemma is we are worried during operation the fluid pumping in will fall through and go right out the pull line basically starving it from oil so we need to figure out a flow rate of oil into PTU vs the pull rate out of it a find a perfect match we’re PTU always has some oil in it and not starving itself. All of this is trial and error concepts I and some guys I know have came up with. Anyone ever heard of someone doing this or attempting it and it not working?

 

[SHOdded]

ford had made a breather extension for 2010-2012 shos, i would have thought 2013+ came with it, no? in any case you might be able to use that oem part if you want to give it a go. just an idea.

btw what gear oil do you use? i would definitely not use motorcraft, probably not RP. redline lightweight shockproof was built for racing. amsoil severe gear may be a good one too, i personally have had good experience with it in the past, tho i dont know if any spec changes have been made to it since then.

also check to see if the ptu cooling system is working correctly. some have resorted to putting a metal heat shield in the area to prevent exhaust heat from infiltrating (on another ford model), but not commonly used.

but your mod def sounds interesting!

I tend to disagree with people on this in particular. The internals of this thing are complete dog shit. Mine has perfectly viscous fluid in it, right now was replaced at 112k not even at 130k miles and it has a bearing in it trying to exit left, it’s humming away like Sunday church choir lol , I had 75-140 ams oil in it. I have been doing some research and calling around and I am trying out a new concept part my guys and myself are building.

They are going to tap into breather hole and put an a fitting on it with an extended y pipe with a valve on one side of the Y pipe and other side still being a breather. When needed open bottom drain and drain close and open valve on top and fill then close and it still act as a breather from other side of Y pipe. Next we are going to isolate the cooling system on it to an auxiliary radiator to have its own independent system prob fill it with engine ice, and have a switch to turn it on and off. I have added a temp sensor to it as well to monitor temps of PTU and be able to cut on aux cooler by demand. Last but biggest one we are trying to figure and if we do is a giant game changer. They were thinking of putting in a oil pump that constantly feeds it new cooled oil and pulls it back to an oil cooler and then continues to pull it cool it and pump it back, our dilemma is we are worried during operation the fluid pumping in will fall through and go right out the pull line basically starving it from oil so we need to figure out a flow rate of oil into PTU vs the pull rate out of it a find a perfect match we’re PTU always has some oil in it and not starving itself. All of this is trial and error concepts I and some guys I know have came up with. Anyone ever heard of someone doing this or attempting it and it not working?

 

[SM105K]

I tend to disagree with people on this in particular. The internals of this thing are complete dog shit. Mine has perfectly viscous fluid in it, right now was replaced at 112k not even at 130k miles and it has a bearing in it trying to exit left, it’s humming away like Sunday church choir lol , I had 75-140 ams oil in it. I have been doing some research and calling around and I am trying out a new concept part my guys and myself are building.

They are going to tap into breather hole and put an a fitting on it with an extended y pipe with a valve on one side of the Y pipe and other side still being a breather. When needed open bottom drain and drain close and open valve on top and fill then close and it still act as a breather from other side of Y pipe. Next we are going to isolate the cooling system on it to an auxiliary radiator to have its own independent system prob fill it with engine ice, and have a switch to turn it on and off. I have added a temp sensor to it as well to monitor temps of PTU and be able to cut on aux cooler by demand. Last but biggest one we are trying to figure and if we do is a giant game changer. They were thinking of putting in a oil pump that constantly feeds it new cooled oil and pulls it back to an oil cooler and then continues to pull it cool it and pump it back, our dilemma is we are worried during operation the fluid pumping in will fall through and go right out the pull line basically starving it from oil so we need to figure out a flow rate of oil into PTU vs the pull rate out of it a find a perfect match we’re PTU always has some oil in it and not starving itself. All of this is trial and error concepts I and some guys I know have came up with. Anyone ever heard of someone doing this or attempting it and it not working?

I dont know dude. It sounds like quite a few more ways to end up in failure esp when you add pumps ect. I would replace it, run an extension with a breather, and put in Redline Lightweight Shockproof in there. Also, since you live in a dryer climate, I would 100% heat wrap your downpipes, that will give you another level of thermal protection since the PTU lives above the rear cat/dp.

Then change your fluid every 15k miles.

 

[mattr66usa]

I've often wondered what causes some PTUs to last forever and some not so much. I'm starting to suspect the ones that fail at launch are having case-flex issues and the ones that are failing because of heat are on cars with too much difference between front and rear tire height.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

I've often wondered what causes some PTUs to last forever and some not so much. I'm starting to suspect the ones that fail at launch are having case-flex issues and the ones that are failing because of heat are on cars with too much difference between front and rear tire height.

I would love for someone to design us a beefed up one. I’ll say this my first lasted until 78k my second until 112k 3rd is now needed and I’m at 132k. I have thought about WPC treatment to the internals may help. Each one has failed differently, first one when I purchased car had the sludge build up I assume from lack of changing fluid, 2nd had a seal fail and pushed guts out on to passenger cv axel while driving and started grinding crazily while driving on long road trip, 3rd has a bearing just chirping away inside, I had to put chassis ears to it cuz I couldn’t believe it failed so soon and I change fluid every other oil change. Either bad luck or internals are not of great strength and can’t take the additional power we add to them furthering the speed up of failure, but I’m am eagerly trying to design a way to fix it

 

[Austin2013SHO]

I dont know dude. It sounds like quite a few more ways to end up in failure esp when you add pumps ect. I would replace it, run an extension with a breather, and put in Redline Lightweight Shockproof in there. Also, since you live in a dryer climate, I would 100% heat wrap your downpipes, that will give you another level of thermal protection since the PTU lives above the rear cat/dp.

Then change your fluid every 15k miles.

I agree definitely more to go wrong but my thought process was how do the guys 24 hr races beat the crap out of the car and never have huge failure and I stumbled on to the oil set up I’m trying to recreate. It makes sense but definitely a trial by error process that could get pricy fast.

 

[SM105K]

I agree definitely more to go wrong but my thought process was how do the guys 24 hr races beat the crap out of the car and never have huge failure and I stumbled on to the oil set up I’m trying to recreate. It makes sense but definitely a trial by error process that could get pricy fast.

Racecars are engineered to be beat on. The SHO is a terrible platform for any type of performance for anything faster that an 11.50 car. There have also been carrier bearing failure reported at high speed long duration trips (autobahn to be exact). These issues just don't rear their heads on drag type set ups for this platform.

I do agree with Matt about PTU case flex. I do know someone made a brace sometime along the way. I just dont remember who. Maybe @Jordan_R or @802SHO have some insight to that.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

Racecars are engineered to be beat on. The SHO is a terrible platform for any type of performance for anything faster that an 11.50 car. There have also been carrier bearing failure reported at high speed long duration trips (autobahn to be exact). These issues just don't rear their heads on drag type set ups for this platform.

I do agree with Matt about PTU case flex. I do know someone made a brace sometime along the way. I just dont remember who. Maybe @Jordan_R or @802SHO have some insight to that.

For sure most race stuff ends up being billet made and is used one race before a complete tear down, I think if u can over come the obstacle of PTU and trans u can make pretty decent power for what it’s worth. Will u ever be out here with mopar numbers for torque and HP very unlikely but I do think with the right set up numbers are just numbers and u can cook them easily with the AWD set up but u gotta be able to have a reliable one. I’m am hoping in 10-15 years they will be the new 1jz, 2jz America made and hopefully cheaper still so possibly aftermarket parts will increase by all this is speculation and high hopes lol

Ok thank u I will reach out to them and see if they have any insight on this or special secrets they are willing to reveal. I spoke with helix auto sports recently and I am considering their clutch pack but it’s a pricy one.

 

[Tbird6]

Well it's like the old saying. You can't make a pig into a race car BUT you can make a really fast pig!

Before doing all that I am surprised the race guys did not suggest cryo treating all the gears along with micro-polishing the gears?

I would go a step at a time to see what happens. You may not need to go as far as your planning.
.
.
.

 

[802SHO]

A deep dive into the PTU I hope is worth it. I’d like to know more about your specific experience with PTU failure. Fluid interval, OEM or aftermarket?

From my years of racing experience, pushing my old setup from 12.3 to consistent 11.0’s, my PTU showed no signs of failure. Just some light fluid weeping past the output seal. Not enough to even cause a drop on the ground.

Attacking the PTU when the entire platform is limited to turbine size. These little guys are Matt’s Gen3R Turbos that everyone likes to brag are powerul enough to blow a stock motor….the hilarious part about that once you learn more about engines is that’s nothing to brag about at all! It’s not from airflow it’s from excessive drive pressure caused by the turbine choke. So these types of Hybrid turbos increase drive pressure over stock and drive pressure kills motors. You get better response and mid gain bc of the compressor side but again the same top end plateau, VE falls off, MBT plateaus and it is a direct reflection on drive pressure skyrocketing. So it’s quite funny to brag about turbos that can potentially harm a motor purely from drive pressure.

I did remove my cover to check it out and it was totally fine.
Then I had a simple billet brace made and added it to a brand new OEM PTU to start my new setup with. That’s why I didn’t go too crazy, I’ve never had a failure with all my launches. Best 60’ was 1.66.

Good luck on your PTU journey. I hope you’re right. Even if youre not, an upgraded part is always better anyway.

Pretty soon the nonsense limits of this platform will be for all to know. Then we can all look back and laugh about hybrid turbos, Cams being the answer to anything and PTU’s being weak.

The first pics were just pictures of the prototype, but here are the pics of the final version.
Available for purchase too. Only fits Non PP PTU bc that’s what I use. If you change the fluid often the cooler is absolutely unnecessary

 

[ShatteredMJ]

My car has 200K+ miles on it and the PTU has yet to fail. I tapped a drain plug and I religiously change/flush it every 15K with Amsoil and it comes out yellowish every time. I do have ceramic coated DPs with heat shields near the PTU.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

Well it's like the old saying. You can't make a pig into a race car BUT you can make a really fast pig!

Before doing all that I am surprised the race guys did not suggest cryo treating all the gears along with micro-polishing the gears?

I would go a step at a time to see what happens. You may not need to go as far as your planning.
.
.
.

I was looking at wpc treatment do u think one is better than the other?

 

[Austin2013SHO]

A deep dive into the PTU I hope is worth it. I’d like to know more about your specific experience with PTU failure. Fluid interval, OEM or aftermarket?

From my years of racing experience, pushing my old setup from 12.3 to consistent 11.0’s, my PTU showed no signs of failure. Just some light fluid weeping past the output seal. Not enough to even cause a drop on the ground.

Attacking the PTU when the entire platform is limited to turbine size. These little guys are Matt’s Gen3R Turbos that everyone likes to brag are powerul enough to blow a stock motor….the hilarious part about that once you learn more about engines is that’s nothing to brag about at all! It’s not from airflow it’s from excessive drive pressure caused by the turbine choke. So these types of Hybrid turbos increase drive pressure over stock and drive pressure kills motors. You get better response and mid gain bc of the compressor side but again the same top end plateau, VE falls off, MBT plateaus and it is a direct reflection on drive pressure skyrocketing. So it’s quite funny to brag about turbos that can potentially harm a motor purely from drive pressure. View attachment 96189

I did remove my cover to check it out and it was totally fine. View attachment 96188
Then I had a simple billet brace made and added it to a brand new OEM PTU to start my new setup with. View attachment 96190View attachment 96191 That’s why I didn’t go too crazy, I’ve never had a failure with all my launches. Best 60’ was 1.66.

Good luck on your PTU journey. I hope you’re right. Even if youre not, an upgraded part is always better anyway.

Pretty soon the nonsense limits of this platform will be for all to know. Then we can all look back and laugh about hybrid turbos, Cams being the answer to anything and PTU’s being weak.

The first pics were just pictures of the prototype, but here are the pics of the final version.View attachment 96193View attachment 96194
Available for purchase too. Only fits Non PP PTU bc that’s what I use. If you change the fluid often the cooler is absolutely unnecessary

Yeah brother I can’t lie between you and Jordan I have definitely been looking up to yall for some years.

1st PTU was bad I presume when I purchased the car, had it two months and smelled something funny, took splash shield off and let it sit and after a day I had thick black goo pushing out the CV axle seals. Pulled and replaced it with a Ford OEM part from dealership. Roughly at 80k miles. This PTU was original and did not have drain plug but had extended spout to top for breather. I can only assume fluid never was changed and was original from factory. 2nd PTU had a drain but a little tick tack breather u can’t see once installed with out maguyvering around rear turbo piping. It also failed similarly. From what I could tell the breather clogged up causing excessive pressure and pushing all the fluid out CV axel seals while on a road trip across country. (FL to NV) when I finally stopped and got to looking around because I could smell that amazing burnt fluid smell and sure enough pushing out fluid and it was not all caked up but it was solid silver, fluid smelled burnt. Took to a dealership that I was close to and they said the PTU had pushed fluid out and while driving it had over heated and damaged internals to the point of no return. Replaced it with a doorman one. (112k miles) everything has been great with doorman except the breather is a little tick tac size again not the extended tube from original set up but had a drain. The doorman held up until it started leaking fluid out cv axel seals, decided at 130k miles to change fluid and replace CV’s in front. Changed fluid and CV’s and about a week later I started getting a light humming noise like I had large truck tires driving on the interstate. Upon inspection I noticed the brand new CV I put in on driver side had a pissant hole in it and was slinging grease all in wheel wall so I chalked it up to that. Few days later waiting on CV to arrive humming started getting louder and louder as speed increased. I stuck my car on lift and put chassis ears to it and sure enough it’s the PTU humming like a fat woman in church. Fluid inside was full but it’s burnt smelling like before and fluid isn’t even a weak old. I used amsoil 75-140. I can only assume this last failure is a freak of nature, but swapping these out is not a easy task when my only lift is at work. Each time I’ve had to do it on floor jacks and jack stands. So now I am paranoid about it messing up again and looking to make this thing as easily serviceable as possible. I would love a brace, where do I go for one? My car is a PP but I can clip coolant lines cap it off and disconnect the cooling system to it so brace will fit or just order PTU without it. I am going to add the extended breather to the top of the engine bay on this one but I’m thinking of adding a Y pipe at top where breather is. One side will still have the breather while the other side of Y will have an open and close valve so I can fill it from top rather than through drain hole. Any thoughts on this?

 

[802SHO]

Yeah brother I can’t lie between you and Jordan I have definitely been looking up to yall for some years.

1st PTU was bad I presume when I purchased the car, had it two months and smelled something funny, took splash shield off and let it sit and after a day I had thick black goo pushing out the CV axle seals. Pulled and replaced it with a Ford OEM part from dealership. Roughly at 80k miles. This PTU was original and did not have drain plug but had extended spout to top for breather. I can only assume fluid never was changed and was original from factory. 2nd PTU had a drain but a little tick tack breather u can’t see once installed with out maguyvering around rear turbo piping. It also failed similarly. From what I could tell the breather clogged up causing excessive pressure and pushing all the fluid out CV axel seals while on a road trip across country. (FL to NV) when I finally stopped and got to looking around because I could smell that amazing burnt fluid smell and sure enough pushing out fluid and it was not all caked up but it was solid silver, fluid smelled burnt. Took to a dealership that I was close to and they said the PTU had pushed fluid out and while driving it had over heated and damaged internals to the point of no return. Replaced it with a doorman one. (112k miles) everything has been great with doorman except the breather is a little tick tac size again not the extended tube from original set up but had a drain. The doorman held up until it started leaking fluid out cv axel seals, decided at 130k miles to change fluid and replace CV’s in front. Changed fluid and CV’s and about a week later I started getting a light humming noise like I had large truck tires driving on the interstate. Upon inspection I noticed the brand new CV I put in on driver side had a pissant hole in it and was slinging grease all in wheel wall so I chalked it up to that. Few days later waiting on CV to arrive humming started getting louder and louder as speed increased. I stuck my car on lift and put chassis ears to it and sure enough it’s the PTU humming like a fat woman in church. Fluid inside was full but it’s burnt smelling like before and fluid isn’t even a weak old. I used amsoil 75-140. I can only assume this last failure is a freak of nature, but swapping these out is not a easy task when my only lift is at work. Each time I’ve had to do it on floor jacks and jack stands. So now I am paranoid about it messing up again and looking to make this thing as easily serviceable as possible. I would love a brace, where do I go for one? My car is a PP but I can clip coolant lines cap it off and disconnect the cooling system to it so brace will fit or just order PTU without it. I am going to add the extended breather to the top of the engine bay on this one but I’m thinking of adding a Y pipe at top where breather is. One side will still have the breather while the other side of Y will have an open and close valve so I can fill it from top rather than through drain hole. Any thoughts on this?

I completely understand the frustration. Swapping PTUs on jack stands is expensive, time-consuming, and exhausting. Wanting a “HD” solution makes sense. But looking at the pattern across all three failures, this doesn’t point to a weak PTU design. It points to repeated pressure and fluid management issues layered on top of unknown service history.

The failure chain is actually very simple. The PTU lives next to the downpipe and has a small oil volume. Heat degrades oil or aerates it if overfilled. As temperature rises, internal pressure increases. Once oil reaches the breather, the vent becomes oil-wet and stops venting properly. At that point the CV seals become the pressure relief, fluid gets pushed out, lubrication is lost, and internal damage follows. That explains the burnt smell, silver oil, and humming you’ve experienced, even with fresh fluid.

The factory breather cap is not a flaw. It’s designed around a known oil volume and correct fill height. When the PTU is filled through the factory fill port on a level surface, the breather stays dry and works exactly as intended. Extended vent tubes can work for some people, but they add complexity and risk. Overfilling becomes easier, oil gets carried into the vent, condensation builds up in hoses, and clogging happens slowly and invisibly.

The Performance Pack cooler helps reduce peak temps, but it can also lead people to extend fluid change intervals. Fluid still degrades, just more slowly. Cooler plus long intervals still leads to failure. Frequent fluid changes matter more than cooling alone.

For ease of service, Amsoil pouches are a clean option. No pump, no mess, and they work well when filling through the factory port, which keeps volume correct and repeatable.

I personally run Red Line Lightweight ShockProof in both the PTU and RDU because it has strong film strength and shock-load protection for AWD launches, but only with frequent changes. Fluid choice matters far less than correct fill level, proper venting, and service interval.

In my experience and research so far, I don’t see clear evidence that these failures are caused by the PTU being underbuilt. An upgrade path would be interesting, but based on what we’re seeing, what evidence is there that the failures aren’t still fundamentally fluid- and pressure-related?

 

[802SHO]

This is simply how I’m interpreting the pattern based on my own experience, data, and what I’ve seen fail repeatedly on this platform. I’m not claiming it’s the only way to look at it… just the explanation that best fits the evidence so far. If there’s solid data or firsthand experience that points to a different root cause, I’m genuinely open to it. The goal isn’t being right, it’s understanding the system well enough to stop breaking parts.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

I completely understand the frustration. Swapping PTUs on jack stands is expensive, time-consuming, and exhausting. Wanting a “HD” solution makes sense. But looking at the pattern across all three failures, this doesn’t point to a weak PTU design. It points to repeated pressure and fluid management issues layered on top of unknown service history.

The failure chain is actually very simple. The PTU lives next to the downpipe and has a small oil volume. Heat degrades oil or aerates it if overfilled. As temperature rises, internal pressure increases. Once oil reaches the breather, the vent becomes oil-wet and stops venting properly. At that point the CV seals become the pressure relief, fluid gets pushed out, lubrication is lost, and internal damage follows. That explains the burnt smell, silver oil, and humming you’ve experienced, even with fresh fluid.

The factory breather cap is not a flaw. It’s designed around a known oil volume and correct fill height. When the PTU is filled through the factory fill port on a level surface, the breather stays dry and works exactly as intended. Extended vent tubes can work for some people, but they add complexity and risk. Overfilling becomes easier, oil gets carried into the vent, condensation builds up in hoses, and clogging happens slowly and invisibly.

The Performance Pack cooler helps reduce peak temps, but it can also lead people to extend fluid change intervals. Fluid still degrades, just more slowly. Cooler plus long intervals still leads to failure. Frequent fluid changes matter more than cooling alone.

For ease of service, Amsoil pouches are a clean option. No pump, no mess, and they work well when filling through the factory port, which keeps volume correct and repeatable.

I personally run Red Line Lightweight ShockProof in both the PTU and RDU because it has strong film strength and shock-load protection for AWD launches, but only with frequent changes. Fluid choice matters far less than correct fill level, proper venting, and service interval.

In my experience and research so far, I don’t see clear evidence that these failures are caused by the PTU being underbuilt. An upgrade path would be interesting, but based on what we’re seeing, what evidence is there that the failures aren’t still fundamentally fluid- and pressure-related?

Without a doubt, I believe the factory breather is a very small diameter and takes no time for condensation and oil residue to find its self in there clogging it up. I am thinking when I put in the extended breather with Y pipe to make diameter a little bigger and during fluid changes I can pop off filter and blow it out with compressed air. My concern is that the debris falls into PTU and never comes fully out resulting in failure. I agree the insides are stout. Even during my failures I never experienced hard shifting or any signs other than the fluid pushing out CV axel seals. Now my first one that came on car when I purchased it at 78k miles was from fluid break down. I have provided photos from video below, I can’t upload video unfortunately I don’t know how.
The other two definitely pressure rather than fluid break down. My new one should be here in next day or two and I’ll send pics once I finish trying to doctor it up .


Thank you for all your input and help, I’d love to eventually catch up to the leaders of the platform but all in good time. TBH I am a ASE certified mechanic now but I don’t work in the field. My ******** is the Manager at Golden Corral in Las Vegas and I work crazy hours but in my free time I will eventually conquer this problem and be back to building up.

PS. Anyone ever in Vegas I’m at the Golden Corral closest to the strip. Love to meet other SHO guys out there stop by and lunch or dinner is on me.

 

[802SHO]

Without a doubt, I believe the factory breather is a very small diameter and takes no time for condensation and oil residue to find its self in there clogging it up. I am thinking when I put in the extended breather with Y pipe to make diameter a little bigger and during fluid changes I can pop off filter and blow it out with compressed air. My concern is that the debris falls into PTU and never comes fully out resulting in failure. I agree the insides are stout. Even during my failures I never experienced hard shifting or any signs other than the fluid pushing out CV axel seals. Now my first one that came on car when I purchased it at 78k miles was from fluid break down. I have provided photos from video below, I can’t upload video unfortunately I don’t know how.
The other two definitely pressure rather than fluid break down. My new one should be here in next day or two and I’ll send pics once I finish trying to doctor it up .


Thank you for all your input and help, I’d love to eventually catch up to the leaders of the platform but all in good time. TBH I am a ASE certified mechanic now but I don’t work in the field. My ******** is the Manager at Golden Corral in Las Vegas and I work crazy hours but in my free time I will eventually conquer this problem and be back to building up.

PS. Anyone ever in Vegas I’m at the Golden Corral closest to the strip. Love to meet other SHO guys out there stop by and lunch or dinner is on me.

View attachment 96212

**** yeah man I absolutely encourage you to see how far you can go with the build! The more people getting after it the better!

I get what you’re thinking, but the factory breather cap itself isn’t flawed or undersized. It’s designed to vent air only at the correct fill level, and under normal conditions it should stay dry. Seeing light vapor over time can happen, but if there’s noticeable oil residue at the cap, that’s usually a sign of aeration or pressure and a good indicator that the fluid needs to be changed — not that the vent needs to be modified.

At the end of the day it’s your call. I’d just hate to see you add an extended vent and end up chasing the same issue again. Running the factory cap and staying on top of fluid changes has worked well for me without any issues, so it’s at least one example of effective preventative maintenance to keep in mind.

@aaron240 makes the Billet PTU brace with heat shield. If you send him a DM I’m sure he can fill you in on more details. I’ll give him a heads up to monitor his account here.

 

[mattr66usa]

Attacking the PTU when the entire platform is limited to turbine size. These little guys are Matt’s Gen3R Turbos that everyone likes to brag are powerul enough to blow a stock motor….

Lies again...
I said the turbos are enough to blow up a stock transmission (and they are). If you are going to quote me, at least be factual..... It's really not a good look man.
I also said that those turbines are the biggest restriction and that your porting pre-turbine would do no good and would actually hurt response, but you got mad when I told you that too.

My name is sure in your mouth a lot though.... Is there something you want to tell us?

Although that PTU brace is actually a good idea and decently executed. I'm impressed if you came up with that by yourself.....