A fresh start / JMS's 2013 Gem Green Build Thread

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Any of you that have followed my whining about my 2013 Gem Green SHO know that it has a hex on it...or I do... either way, it has been quite the problem child not only for my length of ownership but apparently since the day it rolled off the lot. The service records going back to 2 weeks after initial lease are unreal, the repetitive issues I've had in just the last few months have been testing my patience, saying a lot when you consider the number of shitboxes ive owned, my tolerance for new noises and features that disable themselves, or even safe road operation, is quite high. But, a Ford Taurus with any combination of letters after that is still a Ford Taurus in the eyes of book value, can't get out from under it without a massive loss (and I considered taking that massive loss) for reference its about an 8k loss just to trade it off.

Between a rock and a hard place I decided to see my investment through and took a loan out to pay it off and make all repairs and modifications I have been putting off. The list so far:
-Dash removal to replace Evap core (leaking), heater core, and blend doors
-Firewall pass through hole with grommet for outside and engine bay electrics
-Dedicated accessory fuse box with relay triggered by key-on so all accessories are on a keyed switch (dash cam, gauges, etc) with room to grow
-Dash plastics repair (epoxy, sand, paint)
-Ignition coil wire (melted, broken, glued together with RTV by Ford)
-170 degree thermostat
-Colder plugs
-3 bar map
-GH tune
-Tint removal (ammonia and black bags)
-Re-tint with ceramic
-tape/spray all chrome trim (vinyl didnt hold up to the FL sun)
-touch up paint, cut and buff from where I threw a pair of channel locks at the car
-Transmission mount filled with 3m window weld
-Custom lower transmission mounts
-Engine mount (if needed)
-Full Trans, PTU, RDU service
-3rd cat and resonator removal, replace with resonator/glasspack

Already a laundry list and each one either fixes an on going issue (i.e. tuner turns off the CEL for the cat) or scratches an itch I've had since I bought the car, and if im reinvesting for another 6 years might as well get some goodies. What Im missing is some intake and exhaust parts, The airaid set up is what I wanted to go with but price is ridiculous even used, K/N and others look like theyll work fine but again, price is way up there considering what ive already spent. as for exhaust, catless dps is out for now, I have a friend that runs an exhaust shop that said he would take a look at making me some custom ones that would probably be cheaper than the out of box option but again, this budget is getting smaller. what I have been considering is the axle back mufflers off of a stock GT mustang, something that was designed to be a little louder, has similar tips, and I can cut out of a car for next to nothing. so anyone willing to throw in their 2 cents here is the exhaust question list

-running 2 resonators side by side rather than the dual in dual out is far cheaper and offers similar amount of packing, any reason to think it will negatively effect the tone of the car? I know drone is a toss up
-any reason a v8 mustang muffler wouldnt work other than inlet size? instinct tells me its a dumb question but I thought I'd ask the collaborative brain incase there is something im missing.
-I considered an h-pipe just after the resonators to help with rasp so it would be (up stream cat, resonator, h-pipe, muffler) any one try anything like that? I know X-pipe is better for flow but will increase rasp, Ill omit the cross over all together before I add an X-pipe.

and finally, if anyone has a reasonably priced used CAI they want to get rid of let me know, I had someone say they would ship an aFe to me for $125 but they kind of flaked. until hotpipes are in the budget I want something I can attempt to insulate so Im in the market.
And if anyone happens to have a dead or locked sct x4 let me know, seperate needs.

 

[SHOCALL]

Nice man, way to keep fighting. It will pay off. The color alone is worth saving.
All good vibes.

 

[SM105K]

Yes sir. Keep fighting the good fight.

Just make sure that the V8 mufflers aren't chambered from the factory.

I would spend a bit more money and get an X pipe muffler for your resonator.

https://www.etrailer.com/Performance-Mufflers/MagnaFlow/MF11386.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11229265674&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vMtnVNGkP0GY_ljGXNChMEzvUP&gclid=CjwKCAjw46HPBhAMEiwASZpLRO4WbDLkFzbujYpwcx6G9Bon3isuCwJAZ_03VvgRvYbwQCwnqrjMshoCFaUQAvD_BwE

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Yes sir. Keep fighting the good fight.

Just make sure that the V8 mufflers aren't chambered from the factory.

I would spend a bit more money and get an X pipe muffler for your resonator.

https://www.etrailer.com/Performance-Mufflers/MagnaFlow/MF11386.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11229265674&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vMtnVNGkP0GY_ljGXNChMEzvUP&gclid=CjwKCAjw46HPBhAMEiwASZpLRO4WbDLkFzbujYpwcx6G9Bon3isuCwJAZ_03VvgRvYbwQCwnqrjMshoCFaUQAvD_BwE

is the mid section 2.5 or 2.25? everything ive been seeing says its 2.25 from the flex back. I listened to your sound clips and liked the tone, just enough added volume and rumble

 

[SM105K]

is the mid section 2.5 or 2.25? everything ive been seeing says its 2.25 from the flex back. I listened to your sound clips and liked the tone, just enough added volume and rumble

I believe the stock mid section is 2.25. Wouldn't be to hard to make the 2.5 work, since you would have to add pipe anyways.

 

[Zpak]

Taurus SHO: Throwing good money at bad money. Name of the game right there.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Started it up today, first time in a week, let it idle with a fan in front of it for 20 minutes. Fogged out the driveway. Hasn't used a drop of oil in 3 years of owning it, both tail pipes black as night, no oil on the stick. What am I doing wrong?

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

It's for sale, asking 6,000. Not the best sales ad but not the worst. Full transparency, I'll answer any questions

 

[Bronco2fan]

Have you done a build thread? If not, you might want to. You have a lot of threads to read through to get help.
Tell us what you've done to her in one place. How she's running? Good idle? Tach not bouncing around. No smells? Any intake work done lately? No oil in the iac? We would really like to help you out.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Have you done a build thread? If not, you might want to. You have a lot of threads to read through to get help.
Tell us what you've done to her in one place. How she's running? Good idle? Tach not bouncing around. No smells? Any intake work done lately? No oil in the iac? We would really like to help you out.

I probably aught to do a build thread although it would be more like a keeping up thread listing everything ive done to keep it functional.
runs smooth as she always has, a little stumble on first start up and by that I mean the idle lopes slightly for the first 5 minutes after it idles down, one stab of the throttle clears it up and it idles perfectly. there have not been any smells other than the freon that I have noticed and no excess oil in the catch can, but the usual amount (since ive owned the car both before and after installing the catch can) of oil in the charge pipe.

The wildest part of this whole thing was the amount of oil literally coming out of the tail pipes and checking the dip stick to see it went from topped up a week ago with zero use between then and now, to nothing on the stick at all. and it is both tail pipes which tells me both banks, but at the same time? no warning? not even after a hard drive, just warming up at idle in the driveway with a 30" shop fan aimed at the radiator.

I could maybe pull the door bell video that I watched that shows it going from perfectly fine to forest fire after 20ish minutes of running, and I walked out to the car around the 35 minute mark. I didnt try to rev it to clear it out of fear that something let loose in a big way and that's when I checked the dip stick. seemed more than a burning off a long slumber smoke and more like turbo dumping oil straight into a hot cat, or a hose clamp going through the top of a piston. Admittedly I was still quite "emotional" when I made the last 2 posts but I am out of money and options. A cheapo set of turbos will wipe out my contingency fund and I had that organized to deal with the impending rack and pinion failure which those warning have gone from once every few months to once a day turning left so I know its coming but I just found out how much they cost.

And the only reason it was idling that long was to get a good pool of condensation out of the evap core to look for UV dye to double verify the leak source incase anyone was wondering why let it idle for such a long time. But I will take your advice and post a build thread for the car, maybe if something can be figured out Ill at least get top dollar for it but i am going to look at a car this weekend. at this point I need a reliable commuter and the taurus has been sitting on my car port for weeks at a time

 

[SM105K]

I probably aught to do a build thread although it would be more like a keeping up thread listing everything ive done to keep it functional.
runs smooth as she always has, a little stumble on first start up and by that I mean the idle lopes slightly for the first 5 minutes after it idles down, one stab of the throttle clears it up and it idles perfectly. there have not been any smells other than the freon that I have noticed and no excess oil in the catch can, but the usual amount (since ive owned the car both before and after installing the catch can) of oil in the charge pipe.

The wildest part of this whole thing was the amount of oil literally coming out of the tail pipes and checking the dip stick to see it went from topped up a week ago with zero use between then and now, to nothing on the stick at all. and it is both tail pipes which tells me both banks, but at the same time? no warning? not even after a hard drive, just warming up at idle in the driveway with a 30" shop fan aimed at the radiator.

I could maybe pull the door bell video that I watched that shows it going from perfectly fine to forest fire after 20ish minutes of running, and I walked out to the car around the 35 minute mark. I didnt try to rev it to clear it out of fear that something let loose in a big way and that's when I checked the dip stick. seemed more than a burning off a long slumber smoke and more like turbo dumping oil straight into a hot cat, or a hose clamp going through the top of a piston. Admittedly I was still quite "emotional" when I made the last 2 posts but I am out of money and options. A cheapo set of turbos will wipe out my contingency fund and I had that organized to deal with the impending rack and pinion failure which those warning have gone from once every few months to once a day turning left so I know its coming but I just found out how much they cost.

And the only reason it was idling that long was to get a good pool of condensation out of the evap core to look for UV dye to double verify the leak source incase anyone was wondering why let it idle for such a long time. But I will take your advice and post a build thread for the car, maybe if something can be figured out Ill at least get top dollar for it but i am going to look at a car this weekend. at this point I need a reliable commuter and the taurus has been sitting on my car port for weeks at a time

I am sorry to hear about this. I also second a build thread. It keeps things focused, and gives you a reference on what and where you could possibly go.

Before you do anything, I would check your oil drains. In my experience, anytime that much oil has come out of a turbo exhaust, it was either an obstruction in the drain line, or a failed scavenge pump. Obviously our cars don't a scavenge pump, but the drain screens are know to fail. We both know when cars sit for extended periods of time....weird shit happens.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

I've decided rather than start yet another thread I'll use this one as my build thread. So long post in coming...

Although recent news to me ill list what the service records showed prior to my ownership

Build date: 10/21/12

11/12: reprogram APIM
6/13: Refasten seat bottom to frame
7/14: Recall performed
Sync reflash
9/15: Replaced APIM
11/15: Lic plate light recall
Door handle recall
Sync diag - ACM Replaced
Fuel filler neck replaced
Fuel tank replaced
1/17: fuel pump module replaced
Rear camera replaced
Sway bar links replaced
PTU replaced
Transmission rebuilt
Torque converter replaced

2022-2023
Brake rotors replaced
Timing chain and tensioners replaced
Fuel injector (1) replaced
All spark plugs replaced
All relevant gaskets
Air duct replaced
Outlet tube replaced (which one? Who knows)
TPH mount replaced
Radiator hoses replaced

I purchased it in September 2023 with 78k miles

Day of purchase: check engine light for o2 sensor
10/23: car would not warm up to operating temperature, Replaced Thermostat with Motorad 180

10/23: Started down oil pressure rabbit hole (see link)
Post in thread '3.5l oil pressure issue poll. How did you fix it' https://shoforum.com/threads/3-5l-oil-pressure-issue-poll-how-did-you-fix-it.145749/post-1594877

Oil pressure came back safe but close, continued with 5w30 Valvoline advanced oil and Lucas additive and replaced pressure switch

02/24: Shutter developed causing CEL and misfire codes, after a few months of chasing it I finally narrowed it down to injector 2. I replaced all 6 with Standard brand and retained the old ones for refurbishing if needed. Shutter cleared up

04/24: full service of PTU, RDU, Transmission, engine oil, and brakes. Added a off brand catch can to existing oil separator. cleaned factory oil separator. Replaced back up camera with aftermarket (non Dorman), K/N drop in filter added. VTA mod performed

08/24: Noise maker delete developed and installed resolving an unnoticed boost leak

09/24: Throttle Body cleaned, Steeda Spacer added, IC cleaned out

10/24: first signs of AC leak

11/24: Replaced rear sway bar links

11/24: Replaced rear toe links

01/25: Swapped mirrors for Spotter Style Mirrors

02/25: Leaking Schrader valve on low pressure AC line found, Replaced valve, recharged AC

03/25: Radiator started leaking, replaced radiator

03/25: Noticed Strange noise at cruising but went away at a stop or WOT, Narrowed down over several months to most likely a torque converter issue or a broken mount

03/25-07/25: Car was parked and was driven less than 1000 miles due to concerns over the noise

07/25-09/25: Crash resulting in being at the body shop for 2 months

10/25: Oil pressure warning light comes on intermittently, Replaced pressure switch

12/25: Low oil pressure warning comes back and does not go away at any RPM and aftermarket gauge dies within 24 hours. I retested the pressure and it was still okay, opted to delete the factory warning switch and add a full time shock proof gauge under the hood and a new gauge inside the car. Inspected oil pick up screen- all clear. sea foamed crank case and switched to 10w40 Mobil 1 without the Lucas additive and achieved around 15psi of oil pressure at hot idle

12/25: ACM failed, replaced with used unit

01/26: Thermostat failed

11/25-01/26: The car sat waiting for repairs

02/26: Thermostat replaced

02/26: ACM failed, Upgraded to Sync 3 APIM with another used ACM

03/26: Strong smell of freon in cabin

04/26: Freon odor is causing headaches and nausea. further inspection reveals a leaking evap core

04/26: 138k miles, Smoke starts coming from tail pipes and car starts consuming oil at a fast rate.

That brings us pretty much up to date, I'm sure I'm forgetting something here and there and some of the dates might be off a little. Not the most in depth "Build thread" with breakdowns of procedures and what not but between searching the threads and trying to remember everything I have done over the last 2.5 years I think I got most of it at least listed. I omitted several service intervals to the PTU, RDU, and transmission. Over 60k miles I have changed the PTU 3 times with LWSP, the RDU twice with LWSP, and the transmission twice with Mercon LV. The PTU got an extra change while diagnosing the noise. not the best intervals but all oils are clean.

As you can see the car sat for a considerable amount of time last year and continues to this year. IF and that is a big if, I keep the car, This will be my rolling build thread. My GH power pack arrived today and its killing me that I have spent the last 48 hours searching for interest for trades or outright sale instead of prepping the car for its return to the road.

I have come to the conclusion that selling this car even at a loss will be difficult even if it's in good mechanical condition. Fixing the additional or pending issues (Turbos, Steering rack, Torque converter) will cost an additional $2,500, give or take $500 depending on where I source the parts. Ironically, this is the exact amount I am over budget for a car I've been looking at to replace the SHO with.

If I can get some luck and this ends up being a PCV issue or just one turbo seal, I could see limping it as long as I can until the rack or the converter finally go. but If I have to spend over a grand just to get back on track with my original plan, I can't see this being worth it let alone possible. I plan to look into the oil issue tonight. Admittedly, once I checked the dipstick and saw how low it was I slammed the hood and walked away, haven't been within kicking distance of the car since. The likelihood that it's just a bad pcv valve is low but it's worth checking I guess.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Update: we might be back in this. I checked my catch can and found this:

Full to the top and saturated everywhere. So pcv stuck open? Pulled the oil separator and pcv valve and cleaned both thoroughly, seafoamed the car to clean up any residue and now it's idling and almost completely clear of smoke.....mayyyyyybe, just mayyyybe

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Okay, maybe not, it filled the can back up in 15 minutes. Changed the pcv valve for a new one, same thing. Valve cover? I've heard the valve covers are different on 15 plus for the pcv system, mine are the original aluminum ones.

What could cause it to blast that much oil into the can that quick???

 

[Bronco2fan]

Here's what one AI says. Don't know if any pertains to your situation.

what would cause a pcv catch can to rapidly fill with oil - Bing

Check out what I just created on Bing Image Creator

www.bing.com

 

[ShatteredMJ]

Okay, maybe not, it filled the can back up in 15 minutes. Changed the pcv valve for a new one, same thing. Valve cover? I've heard the valve covers are different on 15 plus for the pcv system, mine are the original aluminum ones.

What could cause it to blast that much oil into the can that quick???

1. Catch can itself can be creating excessive pressure/vacuum pulling oil hard. I would ditch the generic one you’re using. This may simply be the fix.
2. Large PCV opening with excessive vacuum at idle, but you ruled it out by replacing the PCV valve.
3. Elevated crankcase pressure.

My suspicion is high crankcase pressure. It could be because of clogs/sludge, damaged valve cover seals, or a piston ring that is not sealing and pressurizing the crankcase during combustion. That is if your intercooler outlet and throttle body aren’t soaked in oil.

Underfill your oil by one quart so 5 bottles and mix with a strong engine flush like LiquiMoly Pro-Line. Keep it idling for the longest allowed time with the engine warm. This will help clean up any sludge or clogs that may be causing high crankcase pressure or restricted PCV breathing raising the pressure.

Next, pressure test each cylinder and inspect both valve covers. If your catch can fills up in 15 mins and smells strongly of gas and carbon I’d highly suspect excessive blow by, especially if the car is only idling.

Two signs for high crankcase pressure: dipstick popping/rising up a little when you check it, or feeling pressure upwards when you open the oil cap with the engine running.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

dip stick and oil cap have zero pressure when taken off at idle, couldnt do the flipped cap because of the angle so I covered the oil fill with my hand for a few seconds and moved it around to try and hear a pulse and got nothing. the oil separator on the 13-15s is external, I flushed the engine just a few hundred miles ago and when I did that I cleaned all the pcv equipment....with brake cleaner.... so its my suspicion that I ruined the seal, more importantly the return seal on the bottom of the oil separator that is supposed to be one way only and if it fails will fill the oil separator with oil and create a lot of pressure as well thus huffing it into the catch can. I ordered one of the last few ford ones I could find and ill see if that does the trick this weekend. If not I will try removing the catch can all together and see if that changes anything. beyond that all I can think of is Im missing the crank case pressure being up, maybe the last engine flush knocked something loose and its just now rearing its ugly head.

Im still working on it, but after several indecisive conversations with my better half we have decided its time for the SHO to go. I am in process of buying a town car, cant beat the dead reliability of a 4.6 on a panther chassis. in another life Id have the patience and the money, but at this point in my life I lack enough to keep up with this car. The ac is fixed and for the right buyer ill leave all my goodies in it (sync 3, gauge set, etc) If someone wants it with a GH power pack and can buy it before my return window ill throw that in too. but once the PCV issue is fixed im listing the car for 8k with everything still in it, or returned to stock for $7,500

 

[ShatteredMJ]

I had a similar issue with horrible oil smoke coming out of my exhaust at idle like I blew a turbo seal and it was because of the VTA breather I tried with 10 AN lines. Goes away with WOT and comes back at idle/off throttle.

I reverted back to my vacuum assisted UPR catch can and everything was solved like it never happened. I figured the car needs vacuum at idle to prevent excessive PCV oil vapor condensation from flooding the clean side. It took time to burn off the condensed oil but after a few runs the smoke was totally gone like it never happened. My point is you can’t judge right away.

 

[SM105K]

Yeah, the UPR CC's are great. Spendy, but worth it.

 

[Bronco2fan]

Definitely well-made CC. I bought one for my 2026 Explorer ST. 20% discount made it a good buy. Well worth it.