shobikes
New Member
Did my rod bearings yesterday. The job went very well - flawlessly if you discount the crack I found in my subframe (suspension forum). Took me four hours, including swapping the sensors to a new Y-pipe and fiddling with typical very rusted exhaust bolts/studs.
My car has had Valvoline Synthetic 10W-30 every 3000 miles since it was born, and it showed. There was very little carbonized buildup in the pan and crankcase parts - just a very easily cleaned caramel coating. The bearings themselves were in need of replacement, but not as bad as some I've seen. #1 (from the crank end) showed no copper at all, and the rest only on the upper bearings. #'s 3,4, and 6 were the worst, with a round spot perhaps 3/4 the width of the bearing showing copper, much like a tire's contact patch in shape. Amazingly, I was able to do 5 of the six with the engine where it stopped, and was able to bump it around about 30 degrees with the wheels to get the last one. It was much easier than I imagined or remembered from helping jelloslug with his.
I had everything but the rear pan seal - somehow I ended up with two Fel-Pro front timing cover kits, but nothing for the rear. I just applied a thin layer of RTV for reassembly there. I used some synthetic 80W-90 gear oil for assembly ****, and then disconnected the DIS and used the starter to crank up oil pressure before starting it the first time.
The car does feel better - there's a vibration missing that used to be there. It seems to be running just a few degrees warmer, though, which I guess is to be expected in tightening up all those clearances. I don't (yet) have an oil pressure gauge, so I can't tell you of any improvement there. I have a new exhaust leak which will be fixed within a week, from the Catco Y-pipe being about an inch shorter than the stock one - the catback won't quite pull up tight enough.(More about the Catco in Engine Mods forum...)
All in all, I'd just like to pass on that this job was much easier than a front 60k, so don't be afraid to take it on, especially if your car has more than 120K or has been abused/neglected. It's cheap insurance for <$100 in parts and a grimy afternoon.
My car has had Valvoline Synthetic 10W-30 every 3000 miles since it was born, and it showed. There was very little carbonized buildup in the pan and crankcase parts - just a very easily cleaned caramel coating. The bearings themselves were in need of replacement, but not as bad as some I've seen. #1 (from the crank end) showed no copper at all, and the rest only on the upper bearings. #'s 3,4, and 6 were the worst, with a round spot perhaps 3/4 the width of the bearing showing copper, much like a tire's contact patch in shape. Amazingly, I was able to do 5 of the six with the engine where it stopped, and was able to bump it around about 30 degrees with the wheels to get the last one. It was much easier than I imagined or remembered from helping jelloslug with his.
I had everything but the rear pan seal - somehow I ended up with two Fel-Pro front timing cover kits, but nothing for the rear. I just applied a thin layer of RTV for reassembly there. I used some synthetic 80W-90 gear oil for assembly ****, and then disconnected the DIS and used the starter to crank up oil pressure before starting it the first time.
The car does feel better - there's a vibration missing that used to be there. It seems to be running just a few degrees warmer, though, which I guess is to be expected in tightening up all those clearances. I don't (yet) have an oil pressure gauge, so I can't tell you of any improvement there. I have a new exhaust leak which will be fixed within a week, from the Catco Y-pipe being about an inch shorter than the stock one - the catback won't quite pull up tight enough.(More about the Catco in Engine Mods forum...)
All in all, I'd just like to pass on that this job was much easier than a front 60k, so don't be afraid to take it on, especially if your car has more than 120K or has been abused/neglected. It's cheap insurance for <$100 in parts and a grimy afternoon.
