Down Again

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
I have posted on various threads with my various wins and losses (more losses than wins it would seem) pertaining to my car which refuses to act right for longer than an hour or 2. Lets recap: I stopped driving the car last march as my daily due to an unidentified noise (grinding gravelly noise, only under load but not under WOT) I drive the car periodically to keep things flowing and I have someone cut in front of me and cause an accident. Car goes to the body shop for 2 months, get it back, panels are misaligned, paint in some spots wasnt buffed, buffing compound residue all down the side of the car, was told I was waiting so long for OEM parts, find Tong Yang stamped into the fender. it goes back for a couple more days so they can correct a few issues.

I get it back, the noise maker delete plug mysteriously flys off, whats worse is the retaining clip is no where to be found. so I have to make a solution. I made a charge pipe for it, tested it, seemed to be working okay for a prototype and before I could get to making the version I intended to use permanently the oil pressure light comes on. thats okay, I have a gauge now, oil gauge dies the next day. so that prompts a deep dive into oil pressures, oil weights, sensors, sending units, gauges, etc. I install an underhood mechanical shockproof gauge to see real oil pressures and ground the factory oil pressure switch since it was constantly and randomly going off (just replaced the switch 2 years ago with OEM). I did a mechanic in a can job of seafoam in the oil, the fuel tank, and the intake. After a 300 mile interval I drained the oil and scoped the pan to check the pick up and overall condition, a little bronzing in the corners but overall really clean and clear. I followed that up with new plugs, fresh heavier oil, and some light engine bay cleaning and verified all of my intake connections (scoped the intake too, light carbon build up but nothing serious). all done at hot idle I had 15ish psi of oil pressure, good enough for 137k post failed water pump that was probably not caught in a timely manner by the PO.

Take it for a drive to work, charge pipe I made that had survived a lot of abuse over a couple months explodes, no time to make another one I JB weld a noise maker plug to my stock charge pipe.

Take it for a test drive, and the ACM craps out, didnt know it was the ACM so I bought an APIM instead, realized it wasnt the problem, went and bought an ACM, problem mostly fixed, a few bugs but nothing I cant get used to for a cheap quick fix.

Take it out after getting the interior back together and 20 min or so into the drive I am at the drive through and the temp gauge is laying on the bottom of the screen. "well that doesnt seem right" so I hook up the obd adapter and check the ECM and PCM coolant readings, both show the same temp - 124 degrees, check the cylinder head coolant temp, a whopping 1 degree warmer. Assuming these are different sensors providing the same consensus, I drive to the auto parts store, grab some coolant and proceed to my nearest hill and park the car at an awkward angle with the coolant tank at the highest point.

I feel the hoses, lower rad, upper rad, heater core, all barely warm, no pressure, I crack the coolant bottle lid open, no pressure at all. At this point the car has been running consistently for close to 40 minutes with a lot of idling. I hold rpm at 2k for a minute, then pulse the throttle, check the level, squeeze the upper rad hose, check the temp. I repeat this process about 6 times over the next 10 minutes and finally something caves. I let off the throttle, and the car went to idle, then shuttered, struggled to stay running for a few seconds and came back to normal. at that point the temp started climbing rapidly. so I repeated my process until it reached 180 degrees, the alleged thermostat temp, no change in coolant level, no dip in temp, and no fans. it climbed to 210 from 124 in about 3 minutes and then the fans kicked on and dropped back down to 190. still no change in coolant level. confused but not wanting the think about it too much considering how much else has been happening to this car lately, I drove home.

5 minutes later im cruising at 70 and the temp gauges plummets like I just drove the car into an ice bath. I dropped it down to 3rd gear and ran the rpms up to 5k for about 30 seconds hoping it was an air pocket or a fluke of some sort, the temp gauge barely bumped up. defeated I drove home at regular speed and 1600 rpm with absolutely no change in temp by the time i pulled in the driveway. even if the thermostat was stuck open somehow with an ambient temp of 50 degrees and a run time of close to an hour, the temp should not be any where close to that low. if it was a sensor the hoses wouldnt be reflecting the same info as the gauge being warm to the touch, and my heater also disappeared when the gauge dropped on the drive home.

I have no visible leaks, no water in the oil, no oil in the water. Im upside down in value to debt ratio and the car is worth half of what I owe without the mechanical demons it currently has. Im at a loss people, I could systematically go through the cooling system trying to figure out what happened but im just tired of dumping time and money into this thing to get a day or two of driving out of it before the next thing happens. the water pump was replaced by ford about 70k miles ago, and unless there is a seriously hard air pocket conveniently around the sensors I dont know what else it could be, but I have no seepage.

I shelved the car since I got emotional and may have chucked a wrench at it allegedly, but Im going with it happened in the parking garage I havent been able to drive the car to in 6 months. but when I inevitably calm down and attempt to reclaim my investment, where do I start? Im at the point of buying a drop out engine, trans, and ptu and just rebuilding everything outside the car from the ground up and turn it into a project. I literally cant afford to depend on this right now, its sucked up too much money already, so unless there is something stupid I'm missing its probably going to go sit on my back line next to my other projects. Advice is always welcomed and appreciated.
 

BradM

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2022
Messages
377
Reaction score
339
Location
60010
I bet just writing that served to vent some frustration. Things looks overwhelming from where you sit and certainly would to any owner...every day is new $#@! problem. But consider this, if you are a DIY car guy and just bought the car from a guy on FB (as a fixer-upper SHO with known problems but that's a blast to drive), you'd prioritize the issues and focus on the ones preventing you from driving it. And you'd be damn excited every time you found a problem. So maybe rethinking what the car now is (and apparently has been) might help. It's a project car, a second car, a weekend car. More importantly, it's not a financial investment with growth opportunities (like most project cars). Some things don't work. Oil pressure is questionable but it can be managed. Stuff breaks and needs to be McGyvered. Cooling system is the number one problem preventing you from having a blast driving it. Drive it until the grinding noise reveals itself. If driving it is still fun, then keep it as a project car. If you can't stand looking at it, sell it and take the hit now (and keep that spot open in the parking garage for something else). I'm not offering mechanical advice, just suggesting a different way to view the SHO.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
@BradM well said, I kinda needed that. And youre right, writing that out was a good vent, I actually had to go back and add a couple things as I was writing it because I kept remembering things. The car was bought as my daily replacement and was minor issues here and there for almost 2 years. Then it seems since the accident its been consistent issues. No love lost, heII the day the cooling system was acting up I took a corner at 70 and pinned the throttle coming out and was reminded what I was missing out on. Since my options are sell, take a loss, and ultimately be worse off, or keep it and make it a project. I think I'll take your advice. Back burner it for a while so I can invest in my new/old daily (the truck the car was bought to replace) and just deal with the car as I have time. The irrationally attached child in me that has a bond with all of my cars is crying lol. Thanks for the words of encouragement, I knew this was the place to put it all out there. Had I put this on FB I'd have 3 offers for $20 and at least 2 people telling me I dont know $hit about cars.
 

Sho time in NJ

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2022
Messages
15
Reaction score
9
Location
Millstone NJ
I have posted on various threads with my various wins and losses (more losses than wins it would seem) pertaining to my car which refuses to act right for longer than an hour or 2. Lets recap: I stopped driving the car last march as my daily due to an unidentified noise (grinding gravelly noise, only under load but not under WOT) I drive the car periodically to keep things flowing and I have someone cut in front of me and cause an accident. Car goes to the body shop for 2 months, get it back, panels are misaligned, paint in some spots wasnt buffed, buffing compound residue all down the side of the car, was told I was waiting so long for OEM parts, find Tong Yang stamped into the fender. it goes back for a couple more days so they can correct a few issues.

I get it back, the noise maker delete plug mysteriously flys off, whats worse is the retaining clip is no where to be found. so I have to make a solution. I made a charge pipe for it, tested it, seemed to be working okay for a prototype and before I could get to making the version I intended to use permanently the oil pressure light comes on. thats okay, I have a gauge now, oil gauge dies the next day. so that prompts a deep dive into oil pressures, oil weights, sensors, sending units, gauges, etc. I install an underhood mechanical shockproof gauge to see real oil pressures and ground the factory oil pressure switch since it was constantly and randomly going off (just replaced the switch 2 years ago with OEM). I did a mechanic in a can job of seafoam in the oil, the fuel tank, and the intake. After a 300 mile interval I drained the oil and scoped the pan to check the pick up and overall condition, a little bronzing in the corners but overall really clean and clear. I followed that up with new plugs, fresh heavier oil, and some light engine bay cleaning and verified all of my intake connections (scoped the intake too, light carbon build up but nothing serious). all done at hot idle I had 15ish psi of oil pressure, good enough for 137k post failed water pump that was probably not caught in a timely manner by the PO.

Take it for a drive to work, charge pipe I made that had survived a lot of abuse over a couple months explodes, no time to make another one I JB weld a noise maker plug to my stock charge pipe.

Take it for a test drive, and the ACM craps out, didnt know it was the ACM so I bought an APIM instead, realized it wasnt the problem, went and bought an ACM, problem mostly fixed, a few bugs but nothing I cant get used to for a cheap quick fix.

Take it out after getting the interior back together and 20 min or so into the drive I am at the drive through and the temp gauge is laying on the bottom of the screen. "well that doesnt seem right" so I hook up the obd adapter and check the ECM and PCM coolant readings, both show the same temp - 124 degrees, check the cylinder head coolant temp, a whopping 1 degree warmer. Assuming these are different sensors providing the same consensus, I drive to the auto parts store, grab some coolant and proceed to my nearest hill and park the car at an awkward angle with the coolant tank at the highest point.

I feel the hoses, lower rad, upper rad, heater core, all barely warm, no pressure, I crack the coolant bottle lid open, no pressure at all. At this point the car has been running consistently for close to 40 minutes with a lot of idling. I hold rpm at 2k for a minute, then pulse the throttle, check the level, squeeze the upper rad hose, check the temp. I repeat this process about 6 times over the next 10 minutes and finally something caves. I let off the throttle, and the car went to idle, then shuttered, struggled to stay running for a few seconds and came back to normal. at that point the temp started climbing rapidly. so I repeated my process until it reached 180 degrees, the alleged thermostat temp, no change in coolant level, no dip in temp, and no fans. it climbed to 210 from 124 in about 3 minutes and then the fans kicked on and dropped back down to 190. still no change in coolant level. confused but not wanting the think about it too much considering how much else has been happening to this car lately, I drove home.

5 minutes later im cruising at 70 and the temp gauges plummets like I just drove the car into an ice bath. I dropped it down to 3rd gear and ran the rpms up to 5k for about 30 seconds hoping it was an air pocket or a fluke of some sort, the temp gauge barely bumped up. defeated I drove home at regular speed and 1600 rpm with absolutely no change in temp by the time i pulled in the driveway. even if the thermostat was stuck open somehow with an ambient temp of 50 degrees and a run time of close to an hour, the temp should not be any where close to that low. if it was a sensor the hoses wouldnt be reflecting the same info as the gauge being warm to the touch, and my heater also disappeared when the gauge dropped on the drive home.

I have no visible leaks, no water in the oil, no oil in the water. Im upside down in value to debt ratio and the car is worth half of what I owe without the mechanical demons it currently has. Im at a loss people, I could systematically go through the cooling system trying to figure out what happened but im just tired of dumping time and money into this thing to get a day or two of driving out of it before the next thing happens. the water pump was replaced by ford about 70k miles ago, and unless there is a seriously hard air pocket conveniently around the sensors I dont know what else it could be, but I have no seepage.

I shelved the car since I got emotional and may have chucked a wrench at it allegedly, but Im going with it happened in the parking garage I havent been able to drive the car to in 6 months. but when I inevitably calm down and attempt to reclaim my investment, where do I start? Im at the point of buying a drop out engine, trans, and ptu and just rebuilding everything outside the car from the ground up and turn it into a project. I literally cant afford to depend on this right now, its sucked up too much money already, so unless there is something stupid I'm missing its probably going to go sit on my back line next to my other projects. Advice is always welcomed and appreciated.
I understand this madness. My third new front turbo is blowing oil out of the cold side outlet. All within 2 months. I give up
 

kryptto

The Best Thing About Cars... ones in my mirror.
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
3,196
Reaction score
2,066
Location
South East, Florida
@BradM well said, I kinda needed that. And youre right, writing that out was a good vent, I actually had to go back and add a couple things as I was writing it because I kept remembering things. The car was bought as my daily replacement and was minor issues here and there for almost 2 years. Then it seems since the accident its been consistent issues. No love lost, heII the day the cooling system was acting up I took a corner at 70 and pinned the throttle coming out and was reminded what I was missing out on. Since my options are sell, take a loss, and ultimately be worse off, or keep it and make it a project. I think I'll take your advice. Back burner it for a while so I can invest in my new/old daily (the truck the car was bought to replace) and just deal with the car as I have time. The irrationally attached child in me that has a bond with all of my cars is crying lol. Thanks for the words of encouragement, I knew this was the place to put it all out there. Had I put this on FB I'd have 3 offers for $20 and at least 2 people telling me I dont know $hit about cars.
its a shame she has definitely been temperamental for you since acquisition. i know you are handy and good as a DYI, maybe its a rip apart place in time? or maybe Mitch is right and you find a girl wearing the same color? my issue with that and these cars you are always walking into the unknown.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
I definitely wouldn't trade it in for another sho, I was looking at an 05 mustang since I have mastered the 3 valves. But I think its stubborn vs stubborn, my motto around here has always been im in charge and I tell the cars when they die. She wants to show her ass and get me riled up it worked. But now im level headed and looking at the big picture.

@kryptto i do think its a tear down build up situation, but im thinking of getting a drop out full drive train to rebuild on the ground and just swap old for completely rebuilt by me, no variables.

@CraxyMitch I have found a handful in the same color and other than 1 lone survivor that had 38k and a price starting with a 2, they're in worse condition. I have to focus on my truck first and then collecting parts, but the saga that is rebuilding my car because its annoying will be posted here for sure.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
Maybe I should just get a Jaaaaaaaaaag. For now the truck is on deck with about 1500 in parts to get it to a point I'd call "good". But that truck is humble by comparison to the sho. Tires, brakes, and a few goodies I've wanted for a while. Got some replacement body parts out by the shop ready for when it warms up so I can paint them.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
How a car can be so great and so infuriatingly terrible at the same time is the enigma that makes the SHO so appealing in the first place. I love them, and I hate them. I gave it all up and was out clean, now I own three.
It reminds me of my first love. The 87-91 Bronco, I swear each one had its own personality and set of issues, not a single one was consistently reliable and had quirks. A true love hate and I've owned 8. After the last one I stepped away for good. No one knows those trucks better than me and I'll stand by that bold statement, but as bad as they were I catch myself looking from time to time. Are they special or extraordinary in any way from equivalent trucks of the time? Not at all, but it was a platform that seemed to have a lot of quirks, Im getting the same feeling with this situation.
 

6500rpm

Quality Always Shoots Straight
Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
589
Reaction score
653
Location
The safe zone outside metro St Louis
How bad was it damaged and where in the accident? Unless you've mechanically gauged the coolant temp and oil pressure I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around those issues. I can't help but think if this all started after the accident that there may be a ground or connector issue skewing your readings. That's a damn shame you're going through this, and the emerald green is absolutely beautiful. I happened to have a 23 Expedition in today with an underboost code and light smoke that I associated with oil being burned in the converter. When I flared the throttle rapidly it made an odd noise that I'm guessing at this point is most likely too much endplay in the turbo and I'm betting is the blades hitting the housing. Best of luck.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
How bad was it damaged and where in the accident? Unless you've mechanically gauged the coolant temp and oil pressure I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around those issues. I can't help but think if this all started after the accident that there may be a ground or connector issue skewing your readings.
Thank you, and to answer these questions it was literally a fender bender, the bumper cover had a tear under the headlight, the headlight was broken, fender and hood had corner damage. They replaced the bumper reinforcement (steel bar) and I received all of the old parts back, the steel bar wasn't damaged at all and the impact happened around 10mph. enough to rattle something for sure but the oil pressure was an on going issue since I owned the car and the coolant issue just started. Just the constant oil pressure switch failures and new information on the Ford spec had me wanting another deep dive. the oil pressure has a mechanical gauge on it now sitting under the hood for constant monitoring without worrying if the sending unit is right. the coolant on the other hand, I checked the hoses by feel after over half an hour of run time and it was like it had been running for less than 5 minutes. I was not only able to hold the hoses for extended periods of time, I could squeeze them shut, so warm and no pressure. Trust me this has this forum and every mechanic I know scratching their heads. Until I dig into it, I guess it'll stay a mystery. The car hasn't been started since this happened. Had I been smart I would've left the reservoir cap off to maybe bleed the system if it ends up being an air pocket. but I feel like if it was a pump it wouldn't have started randomly pumping again (maybe I'm wrong?) if it was an air pocket, the odds of it being perfectly over the coolant sensor twice is pretty low but if its big enough it could completely block flow I guess, And if it was the t-stat I think it would still warm up beyond 125, build pressure, and maintain the temp. since there are physical signs of temperature fluctuation I am leaning away from any electrical influence but at this point nothing is ruled out. Once it warms up and my severely neglected truck has its make over Ill drag it up on the pad and start investigating.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,077
Messages
1,181,199
Members
16,142
Latest member
Kaevorlly

Members online

Back
Top