2010 sho with possible valve seat issues

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desjardins.paacal

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Assuming all else fails in my diagnostics and fixes IF i have to do a valve job because of cyl 6 misfires (unlikely at the time but trying to plan ahead for this scenario) ai suggested its possible to remove the front head with the engine still in place. Knowing ai notoriously makes some pretty wild mistakes i figured id ask the guys who've been down this road.

Granted this a high km engine (near 250k) previous owner had just replaced turbos and a full overhaul would be ideal but considering the amount of time that takes im looking at every other option.

So far the hpfp was failing and im about to swap all that. No issues with spark (switched plugs and cop with diff cylinder no change). Previous owner had done a wet compression test indicating some valve leakage on cyl 6. Ive since bore scoped cyl 5 and 6 in case of obvious damage (seems decent but filthy). Since the car sat for 2 3 years i drained the fuel tank and did a fuel system clean. That ended the hpfp did a quick test drive was happy to see rail pressure go from 200psi idle 800psi load to a whopping 2100psi! Only to see the foam insulator under the hood covered in gasoline and a couple gallons of gas under the car.

So the plan so far:

Replace the hpfp cam follower and hp line. Perform oil change
Re evaluate misfires as cyl 6 is dead last in the fuel rail and the low pressure likely couldnt properly atomize fuel. (Recheck dtcs look at misfire count)

Pop off the intake manifold and manually clean intake valves (needed either way car had no catch can or wmi and i doubt the owner religiously maintained the intake valves)

Spirited test drive hoping to dislodge any missed carbon on valves/seats (who knows why previous owner swapped turbos)

At that point on the mechanical side of things i dont see many options. Injector possibly? Wiring?
Could probably do like the plugs and coils and swap 5 and 6 to complerely isolate that portion.

After that sounds like pop the head off to me?
Ai suggests doing the front head in place and while im in there do water pump oil pump timing chain and tensioners to save the whole engine removal and reinstallation.

Open to suggestions and recommendations just brainstorming here and trying to plan ahead.
Theres always the option of a junkyard ecoboost but seems like a lot of work to possibly end up with just as much or more problems.

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desjardins.paacal

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Update: no fuel leaking this morning. Drove it into the shop to replace the pump.
Cleared codes none are comming back after the short drive.

Previously would code the second it started up. Seems the fuel pressure is very likely my main culprit!

Pulled the pump, noticed it looked a little too shiny for a 16 year old unit. Lo and behold! 2017 build date probably installed around 2020ish
Breaking the high pressure fuel line nut loose barely took a tap on the wrench.

So im assuming the previous owner was throwing everything but the kitchen sink at this problem before giving up.

New pump new follower and new line. Time to go pull the IM to get that line in so might as well clean the intake valves while im in there and replace the gaskets.

Will update with results!

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desjardins.paacal

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Update: 2010 has an aluminum intake manifold that integrates the thermostat and 6 radiator connections. What a massive pain in the...

Intake off about to replace high pressure line.
Then on to intake valve cleaning and thermostat replacement while im in there.


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