Rod Bearings and My SHO

[Zap]

I am in the process of replacing my clutch, at last, but tonight as I was removing things, I was curious...

Would a rod bearing job be a lot easier if the stuff is all out for the clutch? How much time would it take? Does a SHO run any differently with bad/good bearings?

All I can say at this point, is before the clutch, she ran very very well, other than the pesky cam seal leak which should be getting fixed before I'm all done. Real strong, and peppy through the RPM range.

My problem is (slightly) the amount of cash already spent on the clutch job, and (mostly) being in a time crunch before I have to go back to school. I am going to be gone over the next week or it wouldn't be a huge deal at this point. However, the car is almost to the point of dropping the SF. I also wonder the status of the car with 148k.

So, what's the verdict? I appreciate any advice on this situation. FWIW, It seems that I have been very lucky on the two clutch jobs I have done considering both SHOs were fairly heavy rust belt cars. Additionally, I am unsure if an oil leak may have caused clutch failure? Do the rear main/carrier usually fail? I may even have a pan leak, who knows at this point...

<small>[ December 20, 2003, 03:35 AM: Message edited by: Zap ]</small>

 

[AutoSHO]

Do the rod bearings while the trans and passenger side axle are out, no better time. Easiest time to do the rod bearings, and 100% worth it for the $60 insurance.

 

[Zap]

Where can you get the stuff for $60?? eek! I was looking at at least double that. And do I need to order it in advance? I will certainly do that on Monday or sooner, and that way I'll have it by the time I'm back. I've seen that plastigage is usually done on the worst bearing to ensure that it is within clearances. I was thinking of doing the rear main carrier, and could do the pan seals too, that way almost all the seals will be new, I'm tired of my ^%#!$#$@!$@!@#!@#$#^%^ Oil leak. (I could have used a lot more @#!@#'s ... ) That only leaves the other cam seals and the crank front seal to drip. ****

<small>[ December 20, 2003, 03:37 AM: Message edited by: Zap ]</small>

 

[TYSHO]

Clevite rod bearings available at Napa, CB-1435-P Price varies by store.

Fel-Pro oil pan gasket available at AutoZone, OS30636R $16.99

About the pick up tube gasket, do what you want;

Use EGR gasket at O'Reilly's for $1.49, Fel-Pro 70149

Find an OEM *obsolete* one, E9DZ6626A

Or buy a sheet of oil-resistant gasket material and cut your own!

I've heard of someone re-using the original! In my case, it crack upon disassemble. Sooo, make your own choice on that one. naughty

Edit: If you have air tools and everything for the clutch job is removed and outta tha way, your looking at an hour to an hour and a half to get the oil pan back on. There's no use of the plastigauge, just make sure each bearing half has the correct part number stampted on it! And don't forget to apply assembly **** to the new bearings. thumb

<small>[ December 20, 2003, 04:46 AM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[DHMag]

i dont have a part number handy but the oil pickup tube gasket is also included in the timing set. TSsomething or another. includes end pan seal, crank seal, pickup tube seal...

 

[Bizzy]

I gotta mail you that cam seal tool, I'll throw some pieces of gasket material in the box so that you can make your own oil pickup tube gasket. It's not worth spending $5 at the parts store on a roll that you'll use about 1/100th of what they give you.

 

[Zap]

Thanks for all of the information. I am now facing the problem of getting the parts by the end of the year, or thereabouts. Doesn't NAPA have a lead time on the rod bearings? (And for that matter, what size is standard?) Also, what type of torque wrench / socket is needed for the nuts? I only have a 1/2 in drive one at my disposal.

I can order them tomorrow if they will be able to get them in so I can do the job... suggestions are appreciated, as I am still away from home for now!

<small>[ December 24, 2003, 10:13 PM: Message edited by: Zap ]</small>

 

[93EmeraldMTX]

Zap:
Thanks for all of the information. I am now facing the problem of getting the parts by the end of the year, or thereabouts. Doesn't NAPA have a lead time on the rod bearings? (And for that matter, what size is standard?) Also, what type of torque wrench / socket is needed for the nuts? I only have a 1/2 in drive one at my disposal.

I can order them tomorrow if they will be able to get them in so I can do the job... suggestions are appreciated, as I am still away from home for now!

i ordered my rod bearings saturday, and they said normally they'd be here on wednesday, but as these are the holidays they wernt sure. Turns out, it didnt come today so it'll be friday. They are shipped from kentucky if i remember what the guy said correctly.

 

[oh_SHO]

Since we are on the topic I plan on doing mine in the spring (car is stored for winter because of salt and bad bearings) and I don't plan on starting the car to move in into position before I drop the pan. Less oil up in the motor to drip on me the better. Anyway I was thinking it would probably be a good idea to prime the motor when its all back together. How the **** does one do that on a SHO motor?

 

[91 Plus]

oh_SHO:
Since we are on the topic I plan on doing mine in the spring (car is stored for winter because of salt and bad bearings) and I don't plan on starting the car to move in into position before I drop the pan. Less oil up in the motor to drip on me the better. Anyway I was thinking it would probably be a good idea to prime the motor when its all back together. How the **** does one do that on a SHO motor?

I would say keep the DIS unplugged and crank the motor over a few times!Should do the trick for you!

 

[TYSHO]

Zap:
And for that matter, what size is standard?) Also, what type of torque wrench / socket is needed for the nuts?

The part number I listed on an above post is the standard sized bearings. About the parts/tools needed, you can get everything you need from Kurt Metros' website. I guess I deserve a slap because I don't remember the website address. Maybe someone will post it. It might even be kurtmetros.com shrug

Good Luck!

<small>[ December 25, 2003, 02:35 AM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[kmetros]

About the parts/tools needed, you can get everything you need from Kurt Metros' website. I guess I deserve a slap because I don't remember the website address. Maybe someone will post it. It might even be kurtmetros.com[/QB]

It's at http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html.

Kurt

 

[Zap]

As always, thanks for all of the extremely helpful information! I am guessing the bearings are sold in sets (upper and lower), and if that is the case, then my price won't be too bad from NAPA ($45 for bearings). I guess I will just have to check with them tomorrow to make sure I get them ASAP. I won't know about the carrier gasket until I get home, and I will just have to take it from there.

It's funny, but despite the rust-belt factor et al with both of the SHOs, I have yet to have exhaust bolts break. I guess I'm either lucky or patient, but I know I won't be reusing the bolts/nuts that are on the '95 when it goes back together. They were something of a trouble! I was stopped in my work by a steering rack nut, but that is partially my fault due to not having a deep socket. If I have all the parts, it should only take me a maximum of about 3 hours save any problems to change out my leaky cam seal and do the bearings.

What is the opinion on the plastigauge? Should I plastigauge the worst bearing? Do I need to get new bearing nuts? And what type of assembly **** is used, and what type of RTV or whatever to seal the oil pan. I still need anti-seize and loctite for the reassembly part of the clutch job. Finally, I saw SOMEWHERE on here that replacing the drain plug or its gasket(s) corrected a leak problem there. I suspect I may have a leak there. What are the part numbers for this item?

Thanks again, and happy holidays to all!

<small>[ December 25, 2003, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: Zap ]</small>

 

[oh_SHO]

91 Plus:

oh_SHO:
Since we are on the topic I plan on doing mine in the spring (car is stored for winter because of salt and bad bearings) and I don't plan on starting the car to move in into position before I drop the pan. Less oil up in the motor to drip on me the better. Anyway I was thinking it would probably be a good idea to prime the motor when its all back together. How the **** does one do that on a SHO motor?

I would say keep the DIS unplugged and crank the motor over a few times!Should do the trick for you!

Wouldn't that defeat the purpose here? I mean I want oil pumped through out the motor before I turn it over. Anyway sorry about the thread snatching Zap.

 

[MeShoHorny]

oh_SHO:

91 Plus:

oh_SHO:
Since we are on the topic I plan on doing mine in the spring (car is stored for winter because of salt and bad bearings) and I don't plan on starting the car to move in into position before I drop the pan. Less oil up in the motor to drip on me the better. Anyway I was thinking it would probably be a good idea to prime the motor when its all back together. How the **** does one do that on a SHO motor?

I would say keep the DIS unplugged and crank the motor over a few times!Should do the trick for you!

Wouldn't that defeat the purpose here? I mean I want oil pumped through out the motor before I turn it over. Anyway sorry about the thread snatching Zap.

Unfortunately you can't do it with a SHO motor. Unlike cars with distributors, where you can prime them with a drill, the SHO's oil pump is driven by the crank. The only method to prime is to bump it with the DIS disconnected.

 

[AutoSHO]

The best way (and the way I did it) is to remove all the spark plugs, and unplug the DIS. Turn the engine over until the oil pressure light extinguishes (took me about 20 seconds or turning over). That way none of the engine bearings have much load on them (especially compression against your brand new rod bearings). Make sure to use plenty of assy ****.

 

[oh_SHO]

AutoSHO:
The best way (and the way I did it) is to remove all the spark plugs, and unplug the DIS. Turn the engine over until the oil pressure light extinguishes (took me about 20 seconds or turning over). That way none of the engine bearings have much load on them (especially compression against your brand new rod bearings). Make sure to use plenty of assy ****.

That is pretty much what my Dad and I came up with.

 

[jelloslug]

If your oil level sender is leaking, now would be a good time to replace that gasket also. After I changed my rod bearings the engine seemed to rev much smoother, and was much more quiet. I cannot say there was any more power (most likely not) just a better running engine.

 

[93EmeraldMTX]

AutoSHO:
The best way (and the way I did it) is to remove all the spark plugs, and unplug the DIS. Turn the engine over until the oil pressure light extinguishes (took me about 20 seconds or turning over). That way none of the engine bearings have much load on them (especially compression against your brand new rod bearings). Make sure to use plenty of assy ****.

fill the oil filter as much as you can too before you put it on so it cuts down on the time it will take to crank.

 

[Devin]

It's at http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html.

Kurt

Kurt you rule!