Cylinder Number 5 Again (Bearings)

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did some messing around with the spare block had laying around... put the crank in and found out that all mains feed the same as long as the crank is in and there is no need to modify the block for oil passage.
the system of oiling is actually very good on this engine and crank, ill try and explain how it works.

1st and 4th main feed the end rods and while spinning the crank they are both open to oil at the same time to feed the rods.
they are drilled with only one hole for oil to pass to to the rods.

2nd and 3rd main feed 2 rods a piece and are drilled with 2 holes, now for example number 2 will only flow oil to the rods when the other mains are closed off in both the hole positions on the crank.
same goes for number 3, it feeds 2 rods, drilled in 2 places, and only feeds the rods on the main while all other mains are closed to oil passages.

i didnt use anything to gather real world data but when you pass your hand over the oil holes drilled in the mains each one flows even and gets plenty of flow.

i think your problem lies in the oiling system.
ford recommends at least 10 gpm from a oil filter yet the motorcraft ones only flow up to 7-9 gpm and so does every other filter i checked... besides fram which i will stay away from.
personally id like to get a filter that flows 12 gpm which means im gonna need to give up some filtering of the filter to get that..
when i looked around i mighta found a solution to all this..

amsoil has a bypass filter setup thats pretty nice, filters 2- 5 microns thats setup on a dual filter mount for a relocator kit and on the other side of the bypass filter has a normal filter which i feel could use something that flows 12 gpm.

now on a bypass filter it dont get the full flow of oil since it would starve the engine of oil.. what it does is filter all the oil every 10 minutes but it only takes in some flow leaving the main flow to the other filter.

if you like more info check their website its loaded with all you need.

also ernie i know all the guys say psi is a restriction which i know this myself but it also means more chances of lets say oil to reach places it normally wouldnt reach because its being pressed harder into the tight spots which in the case of this engine is the clearences in the rod bearings.

if your running stock oil pressure then you are probley starving the engine on much needed oil. being the stock only runs to 60psi.

i just use the rule of thumb myself.. 10 psi per 1k rpm.

i did the shim method on the spare motor im putting together for a new car i got.
i wanna run 70 psi since i plan to run to 7k a lot and leave the stock limiter on.

i hope in the future you run a dry sump setup because it flows much better then any stock oil pump so it will keep the motor alive plus you can set them up how ever you want. higher or lower pressure etc.
not to mention it will add power to the engine.

to sum this up i dont believe the engine or heads anything like that need modified to get oil flow.

hope this helps

 

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update...

ok i found all the info you will need.

you will want to find a good filter to supply the proper flow.. look into wix racing filters which will give you the 12gpm plus flow with or without bypass valves which can be had for a reasonable price.. (when i looked about $15 or so)

and the bypass filter setup you want is a parasitic filter setup which amsoil has one bmk21 is the kit number they have which will allow you to run the high flow wix filter (less filtering but better flow) and the bypass kit allows heavy filtering (they told me down to 1 micron) which will virtually stop all engine wear. this kit filters the oil every 10 minutes because it cant get full flow it can only do partial.

 

[PhysicsSHO]

Another thing to consider if you're building a new engine is rod bearing clearances and leak rate.

All crankshaft engines oil the main bearings first, then the oil flows to the rod bearings. Therefore, rod bearing oi is "used."
...

What all this means, is that if you intend to run at high RPM, do everything you can to increase oil flow to the mains and rods, and take steps to reduce main and rod bearing leak rate. The best thing you can to do to reduce leak rate is keep bearing clearances at or below the small end of the spec.

Hi, Gary,

Since many of us obviously like to run +6krpm for minutes at a time, when we can get into the backcountry, does this mean that bearing clearences should be taken into account when doing the regular rod-bearing service? That is, should we be aiming -- even in regular, unblueprinted cars -- to set the rod and main bearing clearences at the small end of the spec, e.g. by using std+oversized ("undersized"?) mismatched bearings halves? Likewise, should the main bearings be replaced as well, awkward though it may be with the engine in the car?

This is not the standard TechSHO/v6sho/SHOForum advice.

Thanks,

 

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Hi, Gary,

Since many of us obviously like to run +6krpm for minutes at a time, when we can get into the backcountry, does this mean that bearing clearences should be taken into account when doing the regular rod-bearing service? That is, should we be aiming -- even in regular, unblueprinted cars -- to set the rod and main bearing clearences at the small end of the spec, e.g. by using std+oversized ("undersized"?) mismatched bearings halves? Likewise, should the main bearings be replaced as well, awkward though it may be with the engine in the car?

This is not the standard TechSHO/v6sho/SHOForum advice.

Thanks,

im not real sure what to say on this personally but ill give it a shot.
if i recall the specs on the engine is 2 thousands for clearence in the bearing area so in reality probley not much help to make them tighter.

good thought im not one to say its a dumb idea or anything but i also havent heard of anyone doing this.
remember also tho the tighter the tolerences the less the oil will make it in and the more likely the oil will be squished out during normal operation in a stock motor.
7k a lot of things are happening and the stresses go much much higher.