Odd no start '95 MTX

[Greg Corcoran]

I thought that your concern was always that it would be a slow crank/no start or it won't crank at all, resulting in a no start concern.

You read the post correctly, as has almost everyone else.

The first instance was a short, slow crank, then nothing. Every other event has been no crank. Happens engine warm pretty reliably, but will also happen engine cold whenever it feels like it. It has never died once started, whether local or freeway, a few minutes locally or an hour to/from the airport.

I also never said my last bad crank sensor in 1997 was on this SHO. Like many here I've had more than 1 SHO. (Oh, and to the best of my knowledge there is no starter relay on the drivers side fender for a '95. That and not knowing the difference between 10 ohms and 10K ohms seems like some advice was AI generated)

Like most folks who responded, I'm really not seeing that I'm chasing a crank sensor. I do have a spare I bought when the super coupe folks had them made. Also have a spare X2J ECM and 'D' code CCRM, but nothing is pointing me to needing to use any of those at this point, One strong AI generated opinion not withstanding.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

No code 211 indicating a bad CPS, but you could try testing the DIS.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

No code 211 indicating a bad CPS. But you could test the DIS.

 

[FastCAD]

My apologies for any misunderstanding. I was just trying to help.
My reference to 10 ohms was to clear up the misuse of the word start
from key on/run position KOEO. With no codes, testing the CKS for continuity would be my first option. I only use spell check, and get my information from my Gen1 shop and electrical manuals, and my learning from this forum going all the way back to SHOtimes.

That said, you must have a starter relay other than the solenoid somewhere which would provide 12v power to the CCRM, and the fuse box/ignition etc. This relay could be on the firewall or near the fuse box.
I am sure that you being a long time SHO owner know the SHO t'shirt acronym,
(S)*** (H)appens (O)ften. LOL

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Best to ya




.

 

[Greg Corcoran]

That said, you must have a starter relay other than the solenoid somewhere which would provide 12v power to the CCRM, and the fuse box/ignition etc. This relay could be on the firewall or near the fuse box.

Actually the relay and solenoid are combined in Gen 2. The positive battery cable attaches directly to the top stud at the back of the starter solenoid. The starter motor power comes from the bottom stud. I've circled both studs. When power is applied to the trigger (yellow in this pic) the solenoid pulls in extending the starter gear, and when solenoid is fully retracted the back end closes the connection between the two studs to apply power to the starter motor.

Since I've found I always get voltage to the trigger on my no crank conditions, with the assistance of others here, we've ruled out other components. Since I swapped solenoids and still have the issue it must be the starter. Mike @ SHOSource has shipped me one which will arrive late next week.

 

[FastCAD]

Thanks for the lesson. You spent a lot of time testing, and it seems that it is going to pay off.
Best to Ya.