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mocha 91

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So I just finished replacing the timing belt cam sensor water pump coolant pipe o rings and all the associated gaskets started the car ran fine shut it off to finish getting all the covers back on and now it wont start at all I tried doing a key on engine off test but it wont pull any codes i put a new dis module and cam sensor and a control module out of a running sho any help would be appreciated.. oh and no tach signal while cranking
 

SHOrod

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You don't mention if you also replaced the crankshaft position sensor. The CKP sensor is the one that will prevent the car from starting.

-Rod
 

mocha 91

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You don't mention if you also replaced the crankshaft position sensor. The CKP sensor is the one that will prevent the car from starting.

-Rod
I did not replace that yet.. would I also lose the tach aswell I thought that was from the cam sensor.. I will get a crankshaft sensor ordered on thursday
 

Irish Pride

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If it started and then you did something and now it won't you more than likely disconnected something or you have a ground off. Do you have it completely back together now or just partially?

-Chad
 

mocha 91

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If it started and then you did something and now it won't you more than likely disconnected something or you have a ground off. Do you have it completely back together now or just partially?

-Chad
It's all together all plugs are plugged in all grounds attached including the one one the back of intake.. tested for spark and no spark
 

Irish Pride

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Do you have the two bolts in the crossover tube attached? These are grounds for the DIS. If so, try this, swap the two bolts in position. I did a crank sensor once and was getting a no start condition after putting it all back together. It was a bad ground at the crossover. I removed both bolts and swapped them side to side and the car cranked right up after that.

-Chad
 

mocha 91

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Do you have the two bolts in the crossover tube attached? These are grounds for the DIS. If so, try this, swap the two bolts in position. I did a crank sensor once and was getting a no start condition after putting it all back together. It was a bad ground at the crossover. I removed both bolts and swapped them side to side and the car cranked right up after that.

-Chad
I tested voltage at the dis for the crank sensor and I'm getting 6 volts says it supposed to be between 3 and 7... what two bolts are u referring to and if they aren't there would I still be getting voltage from the dis
 

Irish Pride

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I tested voltage at the dis for the crank sensor and I'm getting 6 volts says it supposed to be between 3 and 7... what two bolts are u referring to and if they aren't there would I still be getting voltage from the dis
The section of the intake that the DIS mounts to is referred to as the crossover tube. There are two 12mm bolts that secure it to the rest of the intake. Those bolts are grounds.

-Chad
 

Deathacus

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I tested voltage at the dis for the crank sensor and I'm getting 6 volts says it supposed to be between 3 and 7... what two bolts are u referring to and if they aren't there would I still be getting voltage from the dis
The section of intake the the DIS is mounted to, the opposite side of that should have two 12mm head bolts going straight down. I'm not sure but I think you would still get signals coming into the DIS, but not going out from the DIS to the coils. Try a continuity test on the DIS bolts to the chassis to make sure it's clean the whole way.

Are you cranking the motor while testing? The voltage should fluctuate. A cheap digital meter might refresh too slowly to accurately show that.
 

mocha 91

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The section of the intake that the DIS mounts to is referred to as the crossover tube. There are two 12mm bolts that secure it to the rest of the intake. Those bolts are grounds.

-Chad
I got those put on and it did start but then immediately after the timing tensioner fell off will post pics but I dont think this is right
 

Irish Pride

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Ouch! I've seen studs snap before but I've never seen one ripped out like that.

-Chad
 

Irish Pride

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The only time I've seen the tensioner bolt snap was because the nut wasn't tightened down or the tensioner was set too tight on the belt. Do you remember setting the tensioner by rotating the crank twice and then tightening the nut?

This looks like it will need to be welded and tapped.

-Chad
 

mocha 91

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The only time I've seen the tensioner bolt snap was because the nut wasn't tightened down or the tensioner was set too tight on the belt. Do you remember setting the tensioner by rotating the crank twice and then tightening the nut?

This looks like it will need to be welded and tapped.

-Chad
 

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mocha 91

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Not sure on the timing procedure my grandpa did it while I was at work... is the white mark on the crank pulley the first or second mark theres no paint left on mine trying to redo timing on it now had a friend weld a new stud to the block
 

Irish Pride

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Install the timing belt and release the tensioner pulley so the spring pushes the pulley against the belt. Do not tighten the nut yet. Rotate the crank by hand two full revolutions. Now tighten the nut on the pulley stud to lock the pulley in place.

Were the bolts missing on the crossover tube?

-Chad
 

mocha 91

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Install the timing belt and release the tensioner pulley so the spring pushes the pulley against the belt. Do not tighten the nut yet. Rotate the crank by hand two full revolutions. Now tighten the nut on the pulley stud to lock the pulley in place.

Were the bolts missing on the crossover tube?

-Chad
Yes the bolts were missing I found two that fit I got the car in peices so I'm trying to get it back together.. what mark on the crank pulley should be lined up on the cover the first one or the second when starting the timing procedure there is no paint on mine
 

Deathacus

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The second/middle mark is the major one, used to be white. You want that at 0° with the cam pully marks aligned. Also what you want to check your ignition timing from. First/rightmost notch is yellow, and third/leftmost notch isn't for anything. A toothpick and a drop of Testors paint will do those wonders.
Be warned tho, the crank pully is two parts press fit with a bit of rubber, and those two parts can sometimes slip out of alignment. I'd pay more attention to the timing belt sprocket itself, there should be a little dimple that lines up with a mark against the oil pump, just like the cam sprockets. Make sure that is all right, then put the cover and pulley back on and see if that lines up with 0°
 

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