changing my rod bearings and uper 60k work 56k maybe

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RAYJAY

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was having a oil pressure problem when i droped the pan this is what i found ....
SHOOILPAN52005%20043.jpg


SHOOILPAN52005%20042.jpg



doing the rod bearings today will post pictures later tonight

here some of the pictures of me doing my upper 60k


SHOOILPAN52005%20083.jpg



SHOOILPAN52005%20012.jpg


sho%20top%2060k%20010.jpg
 

Denny

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HOLY CRAP! :omg: Did you find all 12 bearings or did one already completely spin away?
 

RAYJAY

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nothing spun at its just sludge.... no metal at all


older lady owned the car and she used walmart and other places to change her oil
(do have all the documation on the oil changes every 3 to 5 k )
guess this is what happens when you use junk oil ..

the oil pressure problem i was having was when i would get onthe motor must have been mixxing up the sludge and blocking the screen.


i did install autometer oil and temp gauges. oil pressure is running at 45lb-50 lb at cold
and 10lb to 12lb at warm



Jeff
 

1stSHO

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Is that your garage???? If it is, its very nice.

Ya, ppl think the Walmart oilchange is a good deal.HAHAHAHAHAH


Well, if you spend a little more, do it yourself, your engine will not look like yours.


Its good you caught that. :thumb:
 

RAYJAY

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yes its my place 32' x 48' of pure bliss :dribble:


just wish i built it high enuf to put a lift in :shrug:



Jeff
 

SHOMurph

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yep see alot of SHO motors just like that at TexanTony's shop.

Pennzoil is a no no. Castrol is the only conventional that should be used.
 

Electricat

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I had exactly the same problem on my '95! :thumb: Low oil pressure, expected to find really bad bearings...but instead found the pickup had an area about the size of a dime that it was trying to pull oil through! The bearings weren't too bad yet, but they would have been soon....

The stuff I found in mine was less sludgy tho....more on the "crispy" side!! :nut:
 

RAYJAY

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NotSoSlowSHO said:
that is some nasty nasty! :vomit:

Hopefully you caught it in time! :thumb:

just did the last rod bearing they were wore but none spun :hail:


rod%20bearings%20001.jpg


checking the bearing with platic gauge


rod%20bearings%20005.jpg



me getting ready to fire the sho up :evilgrin:


rod%20bearings%20008.jpg



the rod bearings all the top were wore really bad car runs totally different now :dribble:

Jeff
 

RAYJAY

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wow just test ran the car awsome lots of power and my oil pressures is up from before running close to 20lb oil pressure when its warm.....can't wait till i put in the new fuel pump

Jeff
 

SteveO

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your oil pressure will come down as your oil gets a little older. the viscosity modifiers begin to break down and the oil becomes thinner. it's funny my car gets 20psi at idle with brand new fresh oil in there after it is up to operating temps. after 1500 miles the same oil is at 14psi at idle with the same temps outside and operating temps

granted I'm using cheap dino as part of a rinse phase to a treatment of auto-rx but most oils will thin as they get older, unless they are of a better quality oil.

needless to say though your engine was disgusting in the pan. I'd run a bottle of Auto-Rx thru it now and a few oil changes to get her all cleaned up now that you have nice new bearings in there.
 

Rockledge

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SteveO said:
I'd run a bottle of Auto-Rx thru it now and a few oil changes to get her all cleaned up now that you have nice new bearings in there.
I concur with SteveO on the Auto-RX treatment, maybe even a couple of them.

You might want to pull off the valve covers and see what it looks like under there, too.

If the previous owner had the oil changed every 3-5K, then I find it hard to believe that the brand of oil is solely or even primarily responsible for all that sludge. My gut feeling is that the PO rarely if ever got the engine up to ideal operating temperature, probably as a result of a short trips, and she might not have paid the best attention to the oil level between changes, either.

Also, FWIW, I'm not sure what Pennzoil used to be known for, but currently it's rated as one of the best oils on the market, it has been consistently returning some of the best UOA numbers, on all types of engines. I think the old blend may have had some issues but their modern blend is very good stuff (if it means anything, I don't use Penzoil myself, so I'm just merely passing along the facts...).
 

smak

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for those of us hesitant to pull the oil pan, do you think one of those oil addative "de gunkers" you add before an oil change are a worthwhile investment in piece of mind? would it have helped at all in the situation illustrated above?

i hate to think what my pan looks like but dont even have a driveway to work in right now, let alone shop area/sheletered car port.
 

SHOtimer

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Rockledge said:
Also, FWIW, I'm not sure what Pennzoil used to be known for, but currently it's rated as one of the best oils on the market, it has been consistently returning some of the best UOA numbers, on all types of engines. I think the old blend may have had some issues but their modern blend is very good stuff (if it means anything, I don't use Penzoil myself, so I'm just merely passing along the facts...).

Where is this info found? On the side of the Pennzoil quart?

Doug
 

Rockledge

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SHOtimer said:
Where is this info found? On the side of the Pennzoil quart?

Doug
Haven't looked there myself, but I bet if I did I could can find it somewhere. :biggrin:

Seriously, I never take a manufacturer's word on anything, and usually I rely on several independant sources (not just one) before I pass along information such as that. If you have the time, do a search on Penzoil in the following forums, you will find ample discussion on it, with links and references to even more technical stuff:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=70

Like I said, I have no reason to be tooting Penzoil's horn other than pass along real world data and the conclusions that can be drawn from it.

:salute:
 

Rockledge

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smak said:
for those of us hesitant to pull the oil pan, do you think one of those oil addative "de gunkers" you add before an oil change are a worthwhile investment in piece of mind? would it have helped at all in the situation illustrated above?.
FWIW, I used Auto-Rx before I dropped my SHO's pan to do the rod bearings and when I did the job, I noted with glee that the bottom end looked great. No trace of sludge or any other oil-related issues anywhere, the pickup tube & screen looked like new, even the bottom of the pan looked good. Now just how much of that is attributable to ARX and how much is attributable to proper maintenance, I suppose we'll never know (I've only owned my SHO about 2 years), but that's my experience with ARX.
 

SHOtimer

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smak said:
for those of us hesitant to pull the oil pan, do you think one of those oil addative "de gunkers" you add before an oil change are a worthwhile investment in piece of mind? would it have helped at all in the situation illustrated above?

i hate to think what my pan looks like but dont even have a driveway to work in right now, let alone shop area/sheletered car port.

Well, the best way to deal with it is to drop the pan and get it all out, any other way you risk damaging the motor by circulating that stuff around, or by just letting it sit there and get sucked up by the oil pump. I personally am not a fan of 'de gunkers' however, I have heard nothing but good things about Auto-RX.

Doug
 

RAYJAY

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smak said:
for those of us hesitant to pull the oil pan, do you think one of those oil addative "de gunkers" you add before an oil change are a worthwhile investment in piece of mind? would it have helped at all in the situation illustrated above?

i hate to think what my pan looks like but dont even have a driveway to work in right now, let alone shop area/sheletered car port.

with the stuff that i had in my oil pan nothing but dropping the pan and cleaning it out would have helped the sludge was thick enuf to block the oil screen when i was testing out the upper 60 k work that i did after seeing the rod bearings :eek: i would drop the oil pan asap and do them at about 60 bucks for the parts
and a good day for labor really cheap iinshurence to protect your motor

Jeff
 

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