Rod / Main bearing HELP

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oneqwicksho

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Ok I just put a new front seal in my sho and timing gear and timing belt and the reasons for doing this is the seal started to leak and once it started to leak a slight engine knock started so I pulled it in the garage got the parts and my s40 pvc to press seal in put all back to geather and noise still there I thought it was from the timing being off a tooth but it aint. So I'm wondering if its the oil pump or bearings it had a 60k done 18000k ago but I don't think they did bearings an it has 128000k on the engine. And when it started knocking I only ran the engine like three minutes enought to get it home and only at 1000( no noise at that rpm) and one minute after changed parts and its a little louder now so how do I tell if I need stander bearing or over sized and how do I check the oil pressure and what is it spose to be
 

oneqwicksho

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It just started leaking and only a little bit when I changed it and no oil light on at all but bad knock
 

oneqwicksho

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Its like a thump not a tick I pulled the acc belts to make sure it wasent an acc bearing I depressed the cluch and no change and checked top end for any chater and nothing its comming down low
 

rubydist

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It sounds like its time to change the rod bearings. Unless you plan on pulling the crank and having it reground, you will need standard size bearings. When you pull them apart, run your fingernail on the crank journal to be sure there is no roughness there, the crank will need to be reground if there is.
 

oneqwicksho

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Ok..... I read on here in a forum that someone said something about two stage torking said to tork the rod bearings to 25fp then 35fp but my ford service manual said 25fp I think it was the phoneix project that had a how to video but I can't find it
 

SHO_91

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128K miles is probably enough to change the rod bearings, just for preventive maintenance. Especially, if you hear knocking and you can't trace it to be a cam chain tensioner, timing belt, t/o bearing, etc. Not saying that the bearings are necessarily bad at that mileage - I changed mine at 215K, and they showed a tiny bit of copper, no knocking or oil light - but changing them gives you peace of mind and sets you only back around ~ $70 (including all gaskets). Make sure to check the crank for scoring, if it is, you'll need to have it re-gound (at best...):oogle:
Two stage torque for the rod bolts: 1st = 25 lbs/ft, 2nd = 35 lbs/ft. Go to http://www.shophoenixproject.com/ , there is a complete write-up with pictures. :thumb:
 

Off Road SHO

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What he said. Make sure your torque wrench is adjusted properly and of good quality.

Tom
 

AREA 91

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Are you sure the noise is not from the timing belt tensioner?
I have heard these make a "clacking/knocking/slaping sound.
 

oneqwicksho

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Its not coming from timing chains, throw out bearing, any of the accessories, or top end, or exhaust I just hope its bearings and the crank is not bad because I love this car it is my baby other than my gf I have main and rod bearings on the way from rcm
 

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