Rod Bearings

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MorpheusGPR

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Ok there was a post on replacing these around 130k, which I am at.

With that in mind, where can I buy a complete kit that is a good brand.

Also, from the directions I have seen it looks like you drop the oil pan, and at that point have access to them all?
 

SASHO91

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yep... 134,somthing....

and :hail: to RCM.... thats were i bought my kit from as well....

just make sure that you have a full day to do it... that way you can take you time, and do things right the first time... cause if you dont there will NOT be a second time.....

I was alittle nervous going into it, but with all the write ups and help here on the forum, it was a breeze....
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Yes, it is quite easy.

IMO, the most difficult thing involved in this project is to remove the y-pipe.
Rusted y-pipe to manifold bolts can be quite nasty to remove.
 

DHMag

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average completion time, start to finish: 6 hours.

actual rod bearing replacement takes about an hour. the rest of the time involved is y-pipe removal, starter removal, oil pan removal. and installation.

given no problems with rusted bolts or stripped threads, it is a very easy, but time consuming task.
 

SASHO91

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I love texas..... :laugh_ti:

allthough.... i did manage to get a second degree burn from the torch while trying to straighten the manifold studs..... :nut: :bonk: :cuss: man that hurt.....

torch>me ....... :lol:
 

DHMag

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unless the engine has been repeatedly run low with oil or had relatively long periods inbetween oil changes, most likey you will not need anything other than standard bearings. being a forged crank, it can withstand more abuse than a standard cast crank. the first 2 rod bearing jobs i did, i checked with green Plastigage and both were within specs.
 

SHeepsclOthing

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There always is a possibility that the crank has been turned down and a way of telling, is on the back of the bearing it will show you how far its been turned. I dont remember if they are displayed in inches or mm's, but for an example, it will clearly show ".020" or ".25". Just keep a look out for any numbers on the back of the bearing.
 

SHeepsclOthing

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I also noticed that RCM has a complete upper gasket set for the 3.2L and its about $75 less than the FelPro set. Does anyone know what brand of gaskets they use, particularly the head gaskets?
 

DHMag

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SHeepsclOthing said:
I also noticed that RCM has a complete upper gasket set for the 3.2L and its about $75 less than the FelPro set. Does anyone know what brand of gaskets they use, particularly the head gaskets?

its either ROL or Victor Heinz. ive used them on my engine and they are good quality.

i do have a set of head gaskets and some other top end gaskets for sale.
 

TankII

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Summit Racing has the bearings in stock. Both undersized and regular. You have to call them since they don't list them on their site or in their catalog.

They are Clevites (Michigan 77)

TankII
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Any parts store that can get Clevite bearings can get the rod bearings. Thats assuming they arent on a nationwide "backorder" like a few years ago.

Just last week I picked up a set of new clevite rod bearings for my Red SHO. I did pay a bit more than the last time I bought them however.
 

jedhead

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MorpheusGPR said:
Ok there was a post on replacing these around 130k, which I am at.

With that in mind, where can I buy a complete kit that is a good brand.

Also, from the directions I have seen it looks like you drop the oil pan, and at that point have access to them all?
I got my Clevite 77 Bearing from JC Whitney mail order. I picked up a set of bearings for my bro at Advanced Auto. The box was generic on the outside, but all the bearings were stamped Clevite.

Bob
 

SuperchargedSHOguy

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revhardSHO said:
Speaking of that does anyone know if the clevite main bearings are still on back-order?

I can't remember if they are clevite or not, but RCM and SHONUT both had main bearings last time I checked...I believe $100 or something and in stock
 

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