Rod bearing Pictures

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Aaron R.

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I am currently in an argument about rod bearings and wear. If you guys have any picures of old rod Bearing showing their wear and how many mile were on those bearings it would be very helpful.
Thank you.:hail:
Aaron
 

1993MTXSHO

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98k miles and it destroyed my engine and heads... copper was all over and fungoled everything. If youre debating changing your take it from me and do it.

SHOengine006.jpg
 

sho'd

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here is a set with 167000 miles on them
Bearings
these were starting to show copper, but no damage, they were in need of replacing though.
 
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93rev2sev

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140,000 miles...these made noise on cold startups. When I pulled the oil pan, little stringy clumps of RTV sealant were partially clogging the pickup screen. I changed them out in July and have put 8000 miles on my car since then with no problems whatsoever.

By the way...whats the argument?
DCP01160
 

1993MTXSHO

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why did I have to get the sho that ate rod bearings so fast and killed itself... stupid car...:cuss:
 

sho_sc

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For what it's worth: My '89's original engine, which I was the second owner since '92, ate #1 rod bearing with 94,000. On the other end of the spectrum, my current engine came out of a parts SHO that had 196,000, the bottom end had never been removed. The rod bearings had less wear than the mains. That SHO was used by an All-State Insurance office in Kansas as their travel car, used primarily on the interstate driving to their other offices across the state.
 

SASHO91

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Bearings @ 132k. 3k intervals, stock bearings. The car was driven by a woman before i got it, so, more than likely there was a decent amount of luggin' going on.
Only got a slight flicker of the oil light when rpm's dropped below 500-600. Other than that, no sign what so ever.
DSC00692
 

allbuti

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I changed mine as a precaution @ 227K. They were showing some copper on all top bearings. I could have driven farther, but I think I was right to change them as the risk for not changing them exceeded the reward.
Oxford White '92 virtually stock 237K
 

Aaron R.

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Well the thing is I have always used Mobil 1 in my car and for some reason I had put conventioal oil in for an oil change. So, When I had my next oil change I used a "Motor flush" and within that oil change I graually lost my oil pressure. So I needed examples of rod bearings and their were because I am going to make the "motor flush" company pay to have me replace my rod bearings.

So, Thank you all for all of the pic they will be very helpful.
Aaron
 

warmonger

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okay..so i'm a little confused...which oil light is it that i should worry about? the orange one was on when i first brought it home..put a little oil in and it went out..i parked my car on a slight incline the other day,when i did that the red light flashed on/off,so i shut it off and rolled it to a flat spot..turned it back on and it went away,drove back to the incline and it flashed again???!? it never flashes at any other time or rpm though...car has 119,time to change them?
 

93rev2sev

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c.rodriguez said:
okay..so i'm a little confused...which oil light is it that i should worry about? the orange one was on when i first brought it home..put a little oil in and it went out..i parked my car on a slight incline the other day,when i did that the red light flashed on/off,so i shut it off and rolled it to a flat spot..turned it back on and it went away,drove back to the incline and it flashed again???!? it never flashes at any other time or rpm though...car has 119,time to change them?


The red light is a pressure light. Don't ignore this one for more than a slight flicker at low idle. The amber loght is a low oil level indicator. It's just telling you to add oil. As long as the red light stays out, you have oil pressure. New rod bearings should help the low idle red light flicker.
 

sdpatt

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These bearings were removed after 268,000 miles as preventative maintenance. Wear, but no damage was evident with the use of Castrol GTX 10W-30 at 3,000 mile change intervals.

Bearings,All6Cyl1.jpg
 

v8shoguy

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I changed my rod bearings at ***,*** miles (odo stopped at 140k in 2000, started again in 2004 according to carfax, now has 166k) due to some serious knock and made it to ***,*** +7 on the new bearings. There wasn't much left of the first set of bearings, they were all in the oil pan. Engine's gone. Performing a 3.2 swap as we speak. I am changing the rod bearings on the new motor, but I have a question. Do I need to plastigage them or will the stock bearings fit just fine if the current ones are just worn?
 

1993MTXSHO

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v8shoguy said:
I changed my rod bearings at ***,*** miles (odo stopped at 140k in 2000, started again in 2004 according to carfax, now has 166k) due to some serious knock and made it to ***,*** +7 on the new bearings. There wasn't much left of the first set of bearings, they were all in the oil pan. Engine's gone. Performing a 3.2 swap as we speak. I am changing the rod bearings on the new motor, but I have a question. Do I need to plastigage them or will the stock bearings fit just fine if the current ones are just worn?
you SHOULD be ok but use the gauge just to be sure, how ****** would you be if you had bearing trouble again after you jsut put your new 3.2L in:oogle:
 
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sdpatt said:
These bearings were removed after 268,000 miles as preventative maintenance. Wear, but no damage was evident with the use of Castrol GTX 10W-30 at 3,000 mile change intervals.
may i ask what filter you prefer?
 

Devin

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I got this engine off of eBay. I think I'm rather fortunate in this case.

CRW_3750.jpg

CRW_4882.jpg

CRW_4881.jpg


I'm assuming a little copper showing is normal for an engine with a few miles on it?
 
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