1992 Cranks, no start

[BaySHO Performance]

19mm. A good way to get it off is to use the starter motor to bump it loose. Ratchet resting on the subframe side rail, front DIS connector off so that the car doesn't start, blip the starter several times until it gives way.

Download this file which covers the SHO engine. The Helms 89 supplement. Lots of useful info in it. Download arrow top right:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w9f8gg2ukc1bek2/SHO_Engine_Book.pdf?dl=0

 

[clayb226]

19mm. A good way to get it off is to use the starter motor to bump it loose. Ratchet resting on the subframe side rail, front DIS connector off so that the car doesn't start, blip the starter several times until it gives way.

Download this file which covers the SHO engine. The Helms 89 supplement. Lots of useful info in it. Download arrow top right:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w9f8gg2ukc1bek2/SHO_Engine_Book.pdf?dl=0

Great, thanks! I tried to use the starter. I have to get a breaker bar, and find a 6 point 19 mm!

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[clayb226]

Well, I found the correct 19mm 6 point socket, and a breaker bar. Hit the old key 3-4 times, didn't break loose. I do know that I need to replace some mounts, but I could see the rub marks on the intake, so I figured the such. I might see if I can find a longer breaker bar, y'all think that might give more torque on the bolt?

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[BaySHO Performance]

If using the starter doesn't work, the problem is stopping the engine turning over when using something like a breaker bar. I've tried putting it in reverse but that didn't work either. Another solution for me has been to remove the starter and jam something in the flywheel cogs, but that rarely works either. Plenty of penetrating oil has helped as well. The last resort is to cut a groove in the bolt head with a Dremel tool and cutting wheel and using a hammer and chisel. That has always worked, but the bolt would have then to be replaced.

 

[zoomlater]

I had a belt that was installed backwards and three of the four marks lined up. When you started it it would just spin the engine and never start.

 

[clayb226]

If using the starter doesn't work, the problem is stopping the engine turning over when using something like a breaker bar. I've tried putting it in reverse but that didn't work either. Another solution for me has been to remove the starter and jam something in the flywheel cogs, but that rarely works either. Plenty of penetrating oil has helped as well. The last resort is to cut a groove in the bolt head with a Dremel tool and cutting wheel and using a hammer and chisel. That has always worked, but the bolt would have then to be replaced.

Lol, I hope it doesn't come to ruining the bolt! My battery was a little weak, but I had another vehicle jumping it? Maybe a better charge might help? I feel it was in tge brink of breaking loose? How many times do y'all normally have to hit the key? Does it usually break loose first try, several?

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[clayb226]

I had a belt that was installed backwards and three of the four marks lined up. When you started it it would just spin the engine and never start.

Good info, I was wondering if they lined up?

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[clayb226]

If using the starter doesn't work, the problem is stopping the engine turning over when using something like a breaker bar. I've tried putting it in reverse but that didn't work either. Another solution for me has been to remove the starter and jam something in the flywheel cogs, but that rarely works either. Plenty of penetrating oil has helped as well. The last resort is to cut a groove in the bolt head with a Dremel tool and cutting wheel and using a hammer and chisel. That has always worked, but the bolt would have then to be replaced.

They make a small cog that bolts on to some engines, that go into the starter ring, that stops it from rotating. I am not sure if they have something like that for this engine or not?

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[clayb226]

Ok, I put the battery on the charger, and will try again when I get a little time. Hopefully before next weekend. I didn't make much headway today, but I haven't received the sensors yet, as I just ordered it last night. I will check for evidence of waterpump leak, or oil seal issues. I am looking for required parts to get it running, then after I hear the condition of the engine, I will make a determination of health. If it is determined halfway healthy, I would get the 120k maintenance package, and see if i can get it all up to par. Cleaning her up nicely, as I have her apart!

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[BaySHO Performance]

How to check for a leaking water pump: there's a small hole on the shaft at the top. There's another one at the bottom. If you see a trail of gunk from that hole it's been leaking.

 

[clayb226]

How to check for a leaking water pump: there's a small hole on the shaft at the top. There's another one at the bottom. If you see a trail of gunk from that hole it's been leaking.

Great, thanks for the info!!

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[luigisho]

Take your breaker bar to the local Lowe's/Home Depot. Go to the plumbing section and get a galvanized pipe with enough inner diameter to fit the cheater handle inside and get a 4-5 foot length. That will be enough leverage to get anything off. My go to for really hard to remove suspension/subframe or whatever needs moving. If you are doing a crank bolt be sure you have enough socket extension length to have a little room between the cheater and the fender.

 

[clayb226]

Take your breaker bar to the local Lowe's/Home Depot. Go to the plumbing section and get a galvanized pipe with enough inner diameter to fit the cheater handle inside and get a 4-5 foot length. That will be enough leverage to get anything off. My go to for really hard to remove suspension/subframe or whatever needs moving. If you are doing a crank bolt be sure you have enough socket extension length to have a little room between the cheater and the fender.

I might give this a go, I work at a place that likely sales that type of stuff? I will try with the charged battery. I am a little suspicious, everything else was loose, and I can't get this off? If that doesn't work, I will get a cheater!

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[luigisho]

Good luck. I use that thing alot on older SHO's. Cheap and effective

 

[clayb226]

Good luck. I use that thing alot on older SHO's. Cheap and effective

Lol, thanks! I have a battery slow charging on my maintainer I use for my bike! I am past ready to hear this thing fire. She needs some work, likely a full 120k, but I will see after I get it fired up. I am kinda needing to get another daily driver, as my little gas getter lost the transmission. If this needs too much work, I will swing over and get my 4 runner on the road really quickly. I drove it, and know what's wrong with it. It's actually tore apart as well. Anyway, I am excited to say the least!!

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[luigisho]

HA. You need at least one other vehicle running. What was the gas getter? If the car is solid, a tr@ns swap might not be the worst idea.

 

[clayb226]

HA. You need at least one other vehicle running. What was the gas getter? If the car is solid, a tr@ns swap might not be the worst idea.

An old Nissan 200sx. I am not sure I will put much in it, it will likely need at least as much as this SHO. The 4 runner just needs a duel pump, and fuel lines. I have them removed right now, but it got cold.

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[luigisho]

A 1981 Datsun 200sx was my very first car. Lost the manual tr@nsmission in that one. Loved that POS rust bucket.

 

[clayb226]

A 1981 Datsun 200sx was my very first car. Lost the manual tr@nsmission in that one. Loved that POS rust bucket.

Mine is a 95, and a manual as well, and I loved the car as well. But I have wanted a SHO forever, so I likely might not replace the transmission in my old 200sx, and get my other vehicles going!

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[clayb226]

Aight fellers, I had a minute to try at my crankshaft bolt. My battery had been trickle charging since last weekend, and I put my jumper cables on it as well. I hit the old key, and the bolt came loose. My sensor should be in tomorrow, so I will test it against the one on the car now, compare! I also have a weird issue with a relay, I already have a thread open on it, and will update there! Thanks for the help fellers!!

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