1992 Cranks, no start

[fibretomz]

I never used an aftermarket coil pack so I can't say whether they are any good, if it is positioned backwards, or if the plug wires are routed incorrectly. That's easy to look at.
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[luigisho]

Thanks for the info!! I am busy all this weekend, so I will get back to the SHO as soon as possible!! I should likely just go ahead and replace the water pump and check the main seal. Does anyone know how to tell if the timing belt and tensioners need to be replaced?? The timing belt looks OK, but the water pump doesn't look to of been replaced recently.

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If you have any doubts and are going in there for the h20 pump, then do it all. The good news is the engine is not interference so a broken belt won't frag you but, don't replicate work if you have to go in anyway. At least you'll know the condition of the hard parts. Just get the timing markers lined up and you sould be fine. shophoenix site should have pics I think.

 

[dronztest]

I never used an aftermarket coil pack so I can't say whether they are any good, if it is positioned backwards, or if the plug wires are routed incorrectly. That's easy to look at.

 

[clayb226]

Thanks for the replies guys! I haven't had time to circle back yet, I have been busy. Now I have to ensure the 4x4s are ready fir winter, and good to roll. I will circle back to her though...

 

[ezykammm]

I have the factory service manual for 1992 on DVD. As long as it still works I can provide you with the schematics.
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[clayb226]

Ok guys, I am trying to look at this issue again. I have tested, and I seem to be getting a pip signal to the dis, but I don't seem to have any signal coming through the other pip wife? How can I mimmick the signal? Can I jump the two pip wires, or is there a slight difference in the timing of the signal? I back probed the wires at the cps plug, as well as the dis. I have not tested at the eec, on pin 56 yet, just in case I didn't get a good probe at the cps.

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[clayb226]

Ok guys, so it seems I didn't test right, I just reread the directions, and seems that I missed the part where it mentioned to use ac settings for the test, I used DC voltage...

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[FastCAD]

Ok guys, I am trying to look at this issue again. I have tested, and I seem to be getting a pip signal to the dis, but I don't seem to have any signal coming through the other pip wife? How can I mimmick the signal? Can I jump the two pip wires, or is there a slight difference in the timing of the signal? I back probed the wires at the cps plug, as well as the dis. I have not tested at the eec, on pin 56 yet, just in case I didn't get a good probe at the cps.

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[FastCAD]

key on/ohms

 

[clayb226]

Thanks again Fellers!! The weather was a little warmer, so I was able to finally get the keyed lug nut off the car. I plan to try to tear it apart some this weekend. I should be able to get to the sensor easily now? I am excited to be able to try to swing back around to the car!!

 

[clayb226]

Well guys, tomorrow is supposed to be nice, so I plan to dig into my 92, after I get my morning running done! I am excited to get this thing going!

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[clayb226]

Ok, I was able to do some testing, and I have 101 ohms from the ground wire to both pip wires, and open between the power and both pip wires. Is thus expected if the sensor is in if the sensor is engaged, or maybe if it's not? I am going to rotate the crank some and check, but I thought I would hit y'all up, get some advice from people that have been here!

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[clayb226]

I rotated the crank to 3 different positions, and still no resistance between the power wire and either pip wire. The ground to both pip still had resistance, but it was 120 ohms tge next positions.

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[clayb226]

Ok, something is off on this sensor. I am going to order one, I wonder if he didn't get it adjusted, and broke it? I misread how many ohms, I thought it said 10, but it said 10k. I retested with 20k setting, and getting .10, that's point 10. I think it's tge wrong one, or bad, or something? I will get one ordered tonight, and start tearing it down further!

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[clayb226]

Aight fellers, I am confident that there is something wrong with that sensor? I never could get any resistance to power and to pip. I also started tearing it down some. Pretty much have all the stuff done I can do from the top right now. Break the crank bolt loose, pull the balancer, and the lower and middle timing covers. I likely need to just replace water pump, crank seal, timing belt, and all while I am in there. I am kinda concerned spending that type of money, without ever hearing it run. It sounds fine turning over.

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[zoomlater]

you can take a look at the sensor to see if it got damaged (if it was not gap properly). If it was running before, then hopefully you can just swap out the sensor if it's bad. If the water pump leaked on the sensor, then that can cause it to fail. Does the pump look original? How many miles are on the car?

 

[clayb226]

I think 145000, or somewhere close. The water pump looks aged, it's definitely not shiny, oxidation is showing. It's raining now, and maybe tomorrow, but I will try to finish tearing it apart tomorrow. The old girl needs a little attention, but she's still worth trying to save!

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[clayb226]

Hey guy's, I got another question, I was looking at my timing belt. Can it be put on backwards, and someone gets the impression that the timing might be on? I was thinking that when I looked at some photos, and I will look it up, that normally the writing on the belt should be upside down if looking at the front of the engine. That likely would not keep it from kicking a spark somewhere, but just something I noticed.

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[BaySHO Performance]

You are correct in the timing belt orientation. If put on backwards the timing lines would not be where they should be. If it is indeed on backwards, it's possible that the timing is actually OK. Can be checked by rotating the belt and checking the timing marks on the engine.

 

[clayb226]

You are correct in the timing belt orientation. If put on backwards the timing lines would not be where they should be. If it is indeed on backwards, it's possible that the timing is actually OK. Can be checked by rotating the belt and checking the timing marks on the engine.

Thanks, it's also possible that he didn't move anything, and just put the belt back on backwards? I also wasn't able to break the crankshaft bolt loose yet. I think a 3/4 seems to fit fine, and it was good for rotating the engine, but I think I might have read it's a 19mm or something? It's raining again now, so I am regrouping, then I will try again! I will go find my good 6 point sockets.

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