1992 Cranks, no start

[zoomlater]

that's one way to remove it. I ended up cutting notches 180 degree apart and then used a chisel to alternately hit them until it broke loose. Sometimes it helps to torque the other lug nuts down more to help the one with the key lug nut come off easier

 

[FastCAD]

Thanks for the link, I read something very interesting in there that I have developed a theory around it. But it's still going to evolve getting to the cps to verify. I have to get the front wheel off now, as there is some keyed lug lock in it, and all the removal tools I bought don't fit it. I am going to have to get me a 12 point socket, and beat it on, see if I can get it that way??

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u must have a minimum of 10 ohm resistance if not the wire is bad.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

The only way to get that lug nut off is to use a Dremel tool to cut a slot on one side so that you can use a hammer and chisel to turn it.

 

[clayb226]

u must have a minimum of 10 ohm resistance if not the wire is bad.

Thanks for the info, it won't let me open the pdf you attached, so I will try it later from a computer

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[clayb226]

Ok, I tested from the ground to both pip wires. I set my meter on 1000 ohms, and they both tested to about 120-150 range. I tried setting my meter to 10 ohms, but the needle didn't move at all. On 100 ohms, it barely moved, but I was able to read the meter on 1k.

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[clayb226]

So, my math tells me, now remember, I am old school. No common core or whatever they tried for a while, but anyway. That means that if I divide the 150 by 1000, that's .150 ohms. So I am thinking the sensor is bad.

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[clayb226]

Well, after looking more into this, I think I have the multiplier backwards?? I read where I need to multiply, not divide?? I also don't really trust my meter either, as it doesn't move when I touch the leads together, on anything except 10000 k. I think I am going to test with a different meter

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[Ta2dResqr]

Every meter I have used, the setting is your maximum range. So if it reads 120-150 on a 1000 scale, it should peg the meter on a 100 or 10. (Or in the case of a digital meter "OL" Out of Limit or Over Limit.)

 

[clayb226]

Every meter I have used, the setting is your maximum range. So if it reads 120-150 on a 1000 scale, it should peg the meter on a 100 or 10. (Or in the case of a digital meter "OL" Out of Limit or Over Limit.)

Yeah, that's what I was thinking, and that's not the case. I am going to go borrow a meter from my brother, in the next few days, and try it??

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[clayb226]

Well, I went and got my brother's meter, and they measure out at 100 ohms, both. So I guess the sensor is good, since it's over 10 ohms??

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[SHOMON]

I noticed you said in one of the posts from April that the previous owner replaced the crank sensor a " few months ago " . I tend to question that.
Are you sure? Did he state where it came from? Just asking because they are only readily available one place I know of.

 

[clayb226]

I noticed you said in one of the posts from April that the previous owner replaced the crank sensor a " few months ago " . I tend to question that.
Are you sure? Did he state where it came from? Just asking because they are only readily available one place I know of.

He did not mention where he got it. The plastic covering looks new compared to other things around. He was definitely in there, as both tensioner pulley bolts were loose. That makes me wonder if he just threw it back together, not expecting it to run, or he tried it before he put the belts on. And just didn't care enough to tighten?? Either way, after that, I am going all the way in to verify it's done right. I did read somewhere that the 80's ranger with the 2.3 had a similar cps, but might not line up right?? From what I seen, the ranger one just has round holes, and the SHO has slots for better adjustment??

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[luigisho]

I did read somewhere that the 80's ranger with the 2.3 had a similar cps, but might not line up right?? From what I seen, the ranger one just has round holes, and the SHO has slots for better adjustment??

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no thast will not work. several have tried with no luck. the most recent run was small batch expensive ones from the thunderbird crowd. At least one run had sensors that had a plastic housing that needed to be sanded down a little to get the sensor to crank sprocket spacing correct. That does not mean this is your issue, but maybe.

Some owners also had/have old stock parts on hand at home like this sensor because it is a high failure part.

 

[clayb226]

no thast will not work. several have tried with no luck. the most recent run was small batch expensive ones from the thunderbird crowd. At least one run had sensors that had a plastic housing that needed to be sanded down a little to get the sensor to crank sprocket spacing correct. That does not mean this is your issue, but maybe.

Some owners also had/have old stock parts on hand at home like this sensor because it is a high failure part.

Yeah, I hope it's as simple?? I will get it tore down as I get a chance, and check it all out. I have been waiting a very long time to get a SHO, so I am starting to get impatient, but I don't have a lot of time to work on it...

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[SHOdded]

delphi is usually acceptable in ford applications if you want to give it a shot

Pardon Our Interruption...

i have not checked their catalog to confirm fit but ford dealer sites list F3DZ6C315A as the oem p/n.

cam is ss10011

Parts Catalog - Delphi

View the full catalog of auto parts Delphi offers here.

delphi.mypartfinder.com

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PC17

OEM / Interchange Numbers: E9DZ6C315A, F3DE6C315A, F3DE6C315AC, F3DZ6C315A, F3DZ6C315AA

 

[clayb226]

delphi is usually acceptable in ford applications if you want to give it a shot

Pardon Our Interruption...

i have not checked their catalog to confirm fit but ford dealer sites list F3DZ6C315A as the oem p/n and the ebay listing corresponds.

Great, thanks!! I thought I seen where SHOsource had some as well, but for a higher price??

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[Texas Marauder]

The Delphi part is obviously not the correct part. The SMP part does appear to be correct. Ford application chart for F3DZ6C315A as follows:

 

[zoomlater]

NEW BATCH Crank Position Sensor - Gen 1 & 2 V6 SHO

1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, SHO Crank Position Sensor

www.supercoupeperformance.com

shosource may still have some as well

 

[luigisho]

Great, thanks!! I thought I seen where SHOsource had some as well, but for a higher price??

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Look at the sensor shape. It is not the same as the correct one from shosource. The cylindrical one does not work. The SHO correct one is a more squared off one with integrated wiring harness plug. This non-sho taurus part comes up often during parts search and it LOOKS like it was incorrectly cross-referenced with the original part number or was listed with the incorrect photo. It really needs to be confirmed before you open it and try to use it. Correct part is not Ranger/Taurus compatible..

If you look at the compatibility chart in the ebay link listing is has SHO as engine VIN U along with all the other nonSHO v6 engines which is incorrect. THe SHO 3.0L v6 is engine code Y and the later auto SHO 3.2L engine code is P

 

[clayb226]

Look at the sensor shape. It is not the same as the correct one from shosource. The cylindrical one does not work. The SHO correct one is a more squared off one with integrated wiring harness plug. This non-sho taurus part comes up often during parts search and it LOOKS like it was incorrectly cross-referenced with the original part number or was listed with the incorrect photo. It really needs to be confirmed before you open it and try to use it. Correct part is not Ranger/Taurus compatible..

If you look at the compatibility chart in the ebay link listing is has SHO as engine VIN U along with all the other nonSHO v6 engines which is incorrect. THe SHO 3.0L v6 is engine code Y and the later auto SHO 3.2L engine code is P

Thanks for the info!! I am busy all this weekend, so I will get back to the SHO as soon as possible!! I should likely just go ahead and replace the water pump and check the main seal. Does anyone know how to tell if the timing belt and tensioners need to be replaced?? The timing belt looks OK, but the water pump doesn't look to of been replaced recently.

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