What first, 60k or Rod Bearings

[GBpacker_Sho]

I plan on getting both done during the summer, but I have a feeling I should get one of them out of the way. Just wondering what one I should do first, I know there both important but id rather split them up.

Also for those of you that have done them how long did they take? I got pretty good skills working with cars. Thanks Jack

 

[Cobraii976]

I've done both in the same day. I would do the rod bearings first then the 60K rod bearing are an insurance issue at this point. My NAPA guy and I have classified them as a replacement part now. Not sure how far your going into a 60K but if your not leaking at the waterpump I would leave it for last.

 

[Rockledge]

Do the rod bearings first. It'll give you a nice peek and the underside of the engine, and you will be able to inspect the bearings and crank journals for any sign of trouble. This way, if you find a serious problem, you'll know not to throw away time and cash on a 60K until you figure something else out.

 

[platoribs]

Does one simply replace the rod bearings with original size? I know the right proceedure would be to plastigauge them, but if your not going to pull and turn the crank is plastigauging necessary?

 

[windsormw]

i don't know

I was really interested in that question . My oil light flickered the other day , and with 378,000 kms . I feel there is no need to egnor it . I also am awaiting some 60k action but i am just replying to get this tread noticed .

CAN U PLASTIGAUGE THE CRANK WHEN ITS STILL IN THE MOTOR ?

 

[jelloslug]

Unless you engine is really, really high miles and was poorly taken care chances are stock sized bearings will work just fine.

 

[Lorenr]

Rod Bearings

If there is any sign of a rod bearing issue such as a flickering oil warning light or a bearing rattle on start up, change the bearings. High mile motors seem to like their bearings replaced.

It is not a hard job, so check the links listed here and take your time.

Some things to check and remember:

The crank in these motors is very hard. Usually when a hard crank is used on a high winding motor the engineer will install a somewhat softer set of bearings than normal. The bearings then accept most of the wear and the crank injoys a much longer life. Bearing R & R is normal.

Ford used to use undersize (US) and oversize (OS) bearings in their motors because they had a tough time cutting them correctly. I have not heard of this happening in the SHO motors. Most likely if the motor has not been rebuilt the bearings will be standard.

Order a set of bearings in the standard size so that you can complete the job in one evening. When the bearings come out check them for:

a. OS and US. Even though they were made in Japan (if they are OEM) there may be some markings on the back side of the bearing indicating non standard sizes. Mine had D8I preceded by a circle within a circle which I think is a production code (4th month 89 where I is the 9th letter of the alphabet. In other words nothing indicating an odd size.
Clevite bearings should plainly be marked if they are US or OS.
b. If the bearing stays in the rod cap when the cap comes off of the rod, that means the fit remains good. If it will not stay, it means your doing the right thing to replace them.
c. If the bearings want to remain stuck to the crank because of the oil film present, it just means that they are a good fit with the crank. Still replace them.
d. Inspect the old bearings. Scratches if small are normal. Large deep ones are not. The bearings should be worn normally accross their face. Expect copper to be exposed on the rod bearing half. The wear should be much less evident on the rod cap half. This wear is normal and just means new bearings are in order.
c. Check the crank for anything odd, but do not spend too much time with it unless the bearings suggest a problem.
d. A lot of threads suggest checking clearances with "plastic gauge". I do not use it because I never used it often enough to be good with it and only got myself into trouble when I did.
Instead measure the crank with a micrometer if you feel you really need to. I went by the bearings this time.
e. Use a torque wrench to retorque the rod bolts. Be very careful with all of the beam bolts, windage tray bolts and pan bolts. They will stretch easily.
d. Take your time with the pan.

Good Luck

 

[luigisho]

CAN U PLASTIGAUGE THE CRANK WHEN ITS STILL IN THE MOTOR ?[/QUOTE]

That is really the only way to do it I think. The plastigage is inserted between the bearing and the crank, torqued to spec, unbolt rod cap and remove plastigage and measure the width of the plastic deformity. The width of the smashed plastic is used to determine the clearance between the crank and rod bearing. Too much = OS bearing. In any case you should visually inspect the crank for excessive wear.

I agree with the above that you can usually determine which way to go with just a visual inspection of the bearings and crank.

 

[40BelowSummer]

My oil light flickered and I didnt think of it as a problem too much because I had changed the rod bearings 6 months prior. Then I spun a bearing a week later!

Learn from me USE plastigage, sure it takes a bit more time, but I would do it if you dont know the history of the car.

My previous owner had the crank machined and I did not know this because everyone said "plastigage isnt necessary, blah blah" Had I used plastigage I would have spun a bearing.

Just something to think about...

 

[platoribs]

My oil light flickered and I didnt think of it as a problem too much because I had changed the rod bearings 6 months prior. Then I spun a bearing a week later!

Learn from me USE plastigage, sure it takes a bit more time, but I would do it if you dont know the history of the car.

My previous owner had the crank machined and I did not know this because everyone said "plastigage isnt necessary, blah blah" Had I used plastigage I would have spun a bearing.

Just something to think about...

It appears from your signature you've recovered well from your recent smashup. That's a lot o SHO's. Did you have all those b/4 your crash?

 

[40BelowSummer]

The 93 was my first sho and has been in storage until Ive been ready to sell it, had the white 89 since last summer but its almost stripped. The white 91 plus ( my main driver) as you know was hit, then after I made it driveable it spun a rod bearing (talk about bad luck). I bought the red 92' with some money i made selling the police grille, spoiler, and some tires/rims. But I have to sell the black atx to pay for my accident.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

do the 60K first.

Ahhhh but why you say? 2 reasons.

Well, being you are going to do them both anyways consider this: I did my 60k on my 1990 that had 120k on it. It was never done before. When I took the top off, I see my cam chain tensioners had worn out alot. Ok, so I changed them. I do the valve lash replace the much needed seals, plugs and wires. Car ran great.

About 3 months later I do the Rod bearings. What did I find in the oil screen? A lot of little pieces of the stock orange RTV from the 60k job I did previously as well as pieces of the old cam tensioner plastic. My screen wasnt plugged up much, but it had enough of them covered to worry me about my cleanliness. I was really careful.

Here is another thing to consider: Even the best 60k guys have dropped a tappet holder into the oil return ports only to have to take the pan off to retrieve the sucker. Why not do the 60k first just so you dont have to spend all that extra time taking your exhaust and pan off again after you make a mistake.