Troubleshooting 92 mtx

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Shes alive...I have waken the beast

Hey guys if you haven't already laughed at me, go ahead because I picked this up on Saturday:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?p=331646#post331646post331646

My questions are as followed:
1: the airbag has been removed and blown up for fun by the seller :headbang: . Do I need to install another one inorder to start it?
2: I connect a battery to it and nothing for about 5 minutes then the car powers up but there is a noise similar to the sound of a fuel pump coming from the ABS general area and it will not stop. Any ideas? The electrical system goes dead as soon as I try and start the car or put any sort of load on the system like try to open the window or use the doorlocks and will die after about 15 seconds of turning the lights on. I can turn the key to start it but nothing happens and in a few seconds the system dies if I don't turn the key back. The battery is fine and is out of one of my other cars.

According to the guys father I got the SHO from the car had roughly 10-12" of water up to it when we had one of the hurricanes go through. There is no water in the motor so I am doubting there is any in the tranny but I will check it once it is moveable. I would rather restore it than use it for a donor or send it to the scrapper so all your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[AutoSHO]

Try unplugging the ABS computer.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Try unplugging the ABS computer.

I was going to tonight but ran out of light. Now if the noise stops that would mean I need a new computer, correct? But will it still start? The only car with ABS I have ever owned is my CRV and I have not had to do a darn thing to it so bear with me...

 

[K-Dawg]

I think it will start w/out the ABS.

 

[AutoSHO]

Yes, it will start with the ABS disconencted. Also, it will start without an airbag.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

1. No.
2. Sounds like major electrical gremlins. First check all the battery cable connections, then make sure you're connecting a good batty. If the problems still exist, you probably have corrosion inside a number of wires from the water, which IMHO makes the car a chopper.

EDIT: After looking at the pix of the car, just chop it up. Don't worry about getting it started, just make sure there's no sign of water in the motor. Do an oil change and look at the consistency of the oil that comes out. Then try turning the motor over by hand, and finally you might want to see if you can borrow a borescope to look into a couple of the spark plug holes to inspect the bore for rust.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Cool if those two issues will not prohibit it from starting. Any ideas why the entire electrical system would die like that?

 

[AutoSHO]

Water + Electricity = Dead. I agree with the other Chris... Parts car.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

EDIT: After looking at the pix of the car, just chop it up.

I agree.

But it is kinda fun to get something SO trashed, to fire up and run

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

I don't want to part it. I am not looking to drive this thing tomorrow. I bought it to be a project so I guess I will start by putting it up on cinderblocks tomorrow. You guys are suppost tp be supportive of not parting a SHO . Either way I want the motor whether for this car or another (non SHO) so the electrical components and harness will have to function. Are the odds better of swapping in a "good" junkyard harness/components and going from there rather than going through this harness?

Edit-the oil was changed and the old oil was fine. No water or condensation that I could see.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I don't want to part it. I am not looking to drive this thing tomorrow. I bought it to be a project so I guess I will start by putting it up on cinderblocks tomorrow. You guys are suppost tp be supportive of not parting a SHO . Either way I want the motor whether for this car or another (non SHO) so the electrical components and harness will have to function. Are the odds better of swapping in a "good" junkyard harness/components and going from there rather than going through this harness?

Not good. You have to assume that wires in every single harness in that car have some degree of water *********** and corrosion. And that amounts to several hundred feet of copper.

As I just suggested in your other thread, there are tons of cheap SHO's out there that would make a far better project. Certain cars are just not worth saving, and IMHO that's one of them. FWIW, look at the subtitle under my forum name. I've chopped up over 50 SHO's, and saved about 20. I can usually determine which is appropriate in about 2 minutes.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Im on your side if it matter. Save it! It might not be worth it to others........but who cares what they think?

You wont be out too much money by trying to get it started, just time.

Worth a shot, right?

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Thanks, I need some support. I am not trying to work the impossible. I need a functioning engine harness whether or not the driveline stays in this SHO or if I do decide to part it. Time is what I am looking at. I would rather have the harness functioning in this vehicle because it would be much easier to do it now in the car it belongs in rather than piece work a harness together if I put the driveline in an entirely different (non SHO) vehicle.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Thanks, I need some support. I am not trying to work the impossible. I need a functioning engine harness whether or not the driveline stays in this SHO or if I do decide to part it. Time is what I am looking at. I would rather have the harness functioning in this vehicle because it would be much easier to do it now in the car it belongs in rather than piece work a harness together if I put the driveline in an entirely different (non SHO) vehicle.

If you're pulling the driveline and putting it in something else, the two engine harnesses are easy enough to find on the used market for short $$$. There is more than just the engine harnesses though if you're going to try to get the motor running in the car. There's the engine compartment chassis harnesses, the dash harnesses, and the harnesses that run under the carpet in the cabin.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

I see your point, but the only reason I am so concerned about this is because I wouldn't want to rip apart another car before I got the harness I needed tor the 3.0 working from the donor. That would be a nightmare and possibly send 2 cars to the crusher let alone finding people to help troubleshoot a car with a swapped in driveline and questionable harness. I had those kind of problems when I owned Jeeps. No one wanted to touch them. This is why I am so adament about getting the motor running in the car. I am not worried about actually driving the car down the road...just firing it up and making sure that it runs fine.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Start at the battery and go to the starter. Check the - battery cable to the starter, the positive battery cable to starter solenoid (Not sure if 92 has fender mounted solenoid or not?), the cable from solenoid to fuse box, wire from starter solenoid to the starter....etc

I have the wiring diagrams in PDF format if you ever need them one day.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

I believe I narrowed the powering up and down issue of the car... The + wire off the battery rubbed itself almost in half on the underside of the ac compressor pulley and is corroded so bad it is blue. The ABS is still bugging me. Pedal shows no movement when pressed and vibrates (like is is engaging ABS?)and makes that same noise even with the ABS computer unplugged. I have checked multiple wires and so far I have not seen any corrosion *keeping fingers crossed*

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

She starts. Needed a new + wire from battery to starter. I am able to move her back and forth (I got 2 flats and no keys for the wheel locks ) and it idles fine right at about 850 rpms. The ABS light is constantly lit and the brakes feel like crap. Other than the lack of exaust, she purrs (well its more of a sick growl)

 

[K-Dawg]

Cool.

Ehh, who needs brakes?

 

[rangerj]

Disconnect the ABS pump relay connection. It sounds like the relay has its points stuck together.

As for the electrical problems, start with the primary positive and negative wires and connections first. I would then disconnect, one at a time, every connection in the car. Dry out the connections and check for corrosion.

And no, the air bag is not necessary for the car to run. As for the idiot that blew up the air bag for fun, were his parents related to each other?
rangerj