Steering Alignment Troubleshooting Help

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myotis1134

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Hey guys, I've got a steering issue which I think is from the rack, but I'm in the second-guessing phase of the diagnosis, and would like some second opinions.

First up, here is a picture of what's going on. This is after a "professional" (or at least official) alignment, where they told me the wheels were aligned with respect to the steering wheel being straight.

SteeringAlignmentIssue

I took this while driving - yes I know, I was careful - but in this picture I'm driving on a straight stretch towards Nikiski, and the pavement isn't terrible in this area - because the Marathon refinery is just ahead on the right, and a huge tank-farm is on the left. Lots of tankers driving to and from these places, and they put a little effort into keeping it rut-free.

So this steering thing has been present since I replaced the clutch in March. I took a hard look at the control arms, strut-bars, and all bushings. Everything appeared to be in decent condition, and nothing acted weird when I torqued it all. I bought a couple of expensive electronic torque wrenches for the clutch project, and I'm confident that everything was torqued damn near perfectly.
I may not have aligned the subframe perfectly, since I don't think the car was elevated perfectly level. It looked pretty damn close though, and I did use an exact 3/4 inch bar with a nice torpedo level for the alignment.

I didn't take the steering rack off, but wired it up since I have incredibly bad luck with them. My current rack doesn't have the welded bolts, and was a pita to free from and install onto the subframe, but it too got the perfect torque-down, and no leaks in the system. It doesn't move when the wheels are turned.

When driving and turning to the right, I feel a pulsating push-back. I find this funny, since there is none when turning left. This oddity has made me suspect either the rack is bad, or perhaps the check valve which I have transferred from rack to rack, has finally taken a dump.

CheckValveLabeled
I don't know what the "M" is in that pic, but the check valve on the tip of that magnetic pick-up tool has been in my last 3 steering racks. It's an extremely simple part, and I figure the only way for it to fail is to have something wad up in the spring somehow, possibly causing a partial shutting of the valve, which might explain the push-back and pulsing sensation. I never use teflon tape on vehicles, only thread sealant, so maybe an o-ring or extra gasket busted loose and got caught in the valve?

I'm dreading this fix because two of the last four racks I've put hands on had leaks at the tie-rods, out of the box, and this was not discovered until everything was buttoned up. Not to mention the crazy assortment of thread sealants I went through to find one that would work for my AN conversion for the cooler line project.

Bottom line is that I would like to be surgical about this if possible, and that means sampling you guys to see if any of these symptoms sound familiar. As always, I appreciate the help and effort.

p.s. Same issue with my set of winter tires.
 

ScotSHO

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Hey guys, I've got a steering issue which I think is from the rack, but I'm in the second-guessing phase of the diagnosis, and would like some second opinions.

First up, here is a picture of what's going on. This is after a "professional" (or at least official) alignment, where they told me the wheels were aligned with respect to the steering wheel being straight.

I took this while driving - yes I know, I was careful - but in this picture I'm driving on a straight stretch towards Nikiski, and the pavement isn't terrible in this area - because the Marathon refinery is just ahead on the right, and a huge tank-farm is on the left. Lots of tankers driving to and from these places, and they put a little effort into keeping it rut-free.

So this steering thing has been present since I replaced the clutch in March. I took a hard look at the control arms, strut-bars, and all bushings. Everything appeared to be in decent condition, and nothing acted weird when I torqued it all. I bought a couple of expensive electronic torque wrenches for the clutch project, and I'm confident that everything was torqued damn near perfectly.
I may not have aligned the subframe perfectly, since I don't think the car was elevated perfectly level. It looked pretty damn close though, and I did use an exact 3/4 inch bar with a nice torpedo level for the alignment.

It sounds like you aligned the subframe correctly. I'd ask them to re-align with the 13 degree error in mind - it is probably one rotation of each tie rod end. Maybe have them align with the car running. I could see the rack changing steering position slightly when under power steering pressure. But that is just a guess.

When driving and turning to the right, I feel a pulsating push-back. I find this funny, since there is none when turning left. This oddity has made me suspect either the rack is bad, or perhaps the check valve which I have transferred from rack to rack, has finally taken a dump.

I have noticed the pulsation in 2 different SHOs, and it might be when I turn right. I've always blamed it on the over active VAPS system. Probably nothing to lose sleep over...
 

myotis1134

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My SHO is a '92, and does not have VAPS, or at least did not come into my possession with a VAPS rack, and I just assumed it was not meant to be.

I also forgot to mention that the steering wheel is actively pulling to the right when I drive. Not hard, but it's constant.
 

BaySHO Performance

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The subframe is off kilter. That has thrown the camber and / or caster off which is why it's pulling to the right and the steering wheel isn't centered. Have a good alignment shop fix it. I always use a white pen round the bushings to ensure that it is reinstalled in the exact same place.

I had a case where I installed the check valve in the rack pressure port upside down with the same symptoms you have. So I would remove the pressure hose and fish out the valve and the flat washer on top of it. Make sure it's not blocked. Ditch the washer when reinstalling. It's not needed.
 

thegreatbriguy

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If your toe is correct you can fix center the wheel by adjusting each tie rod equally. lengthen one side and shorten the other. In equal amounts. I did this recently and it took more turns than I though to get mine centered (on a 90 with black interior no less!)
 

BaySHO Performance

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If your toe is correct you can fix center the wheel by adjusting each tie rod equally. lengthen one side and shorten the other. In equal amounts. I did this recently and it took more turns than I though to get mine centered (on a 90 with black interior no less!)
The dust boots can get twisted when adjusting the toe. Did you check them?
 

BaySHO Performance

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the dust boots on the inner tie rod ends? I have not had that problem - it seems they slide on the rod. However, this is a good tip for everyone to check after adjusting.
Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. Adjusted the toe on a newly installed rack yesterday. As usual, I removed the outer clip, pushed back the boot and greased where the end sits. Even so, they twisted like crazy.
 

FastCAD

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Hey guys, I've got a steering issue which I think is from the rack, but I'm in the second-guessing phase of the diagnosis, and would like some second opinions.

First up, here is a picture of what's going on. This is after a "professional" (or at least official) alignment, where they told me the wheels were aligned with respect to the steering wheel being straight.

View attachment 91788

I took this while driving - yes I know, I was careful - but in this picture I'm driving on a straight stretch towards Nikiski, and the pavement isn't terrible in this area - because the Marathon refinery is just ahead on the right, and a huge tank-farm is on the left. Lots of tankers driving to and from these places, and they put a little effort into keeping it rut-free.

So this steering thing has been present since I replaced the clutch in March. I took a hard look at the control arms, strut-bars, and all bushings. Everything appeared to be in decent condition, and nothing acted weird when I torqued it all. I bought a couple of expensive electronic torque wrenches for the clutch project, and I'm confident that everything was torqued damn near perfectly.
I may not have aligned the subframe perfectly, since I don't think the car was elevated perfectly level. It looked pretty damn close though, and I did use an exact 3/4 inch bar with a nice torpedo level for the alignment.

I didn't take the steering rack off, but wired it up since I have incredibly bad luck with them. My current rack doesn't have the welded bolts, and was a pita to free from and install onto the subframe, but it too got the perfect torque-down, and no leaks in the system. It doesn't move when the wheels are turned.

When driving and turning to the right, I feel a pulsating push-back. I find this funny, since there is none when turning left. This oddity has made me suspect either the rack is bad, or perhaps the check valve which I have transferred from rack to rack, has finally taken a dump.

View attachment 91789
I don't know what the "M" is in that pic, but the check valve on the tip of that magnetic pick-up tool has been in my last 3 steering racks. It's an extremely simple part, and I figure the only way for it to fail is to have something wad up in the spring somehow, possibly causing a partial shutting of the valve, which might explain the push-back and pulsing sensation. I never use teflon tape on vehicles, only thread sealant, so maybe an o-ring or extra gasket busted loose and got caught in the valve?

I'm dreading this fix because two of the last four racks I've put hands on had leaks at the tie-rods, out of the box, and this was not discovered until everything was buttoned up. Not to mention the crazy assortment of thread sealants I went through to find one that would work for my AN conversion for the cooler line project.

Bottom line is that I would like to be surgical about this if possible, and that means sampling you guys to see if any of these symptoms sound familiar. As always, I appreciate the help and effort.

p.s. Same issue with my set of winter tires.
Did you have subframe connectors installed at any time?
Just a thought. Subframe connectors installed incorrectly can have this effect.
 

myotis1134

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Anchorage, Alaska
No subframe connectors - future project.

The boots are not twisted now. However, the I had to take the car back into the local alignment shop - after the clutch install - because they had "the new guy" doing my alignment, and he destroyed a tie-rod boot by twisting the **** out of the inner rod. I had the metal crimp-bands on, but after the incident they replaced them with loose zip-ties.

I'm in the middle of battling the rear suspension now, but when I'm done I will take the car to an alignment shop in Anchorage, which was recommended to me by a mechanic friend I trust. I'll have them check the subframe, and align the tires - especially since I got the strut mounts with adjustable camber from shosource.
 

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