Transmission issues

[2013SHOpp]

So I've been working on my sho for 5 months at this point and am almost finished with it. I just have a few things to sort out with the trans that I could use some help with. The car is a 2013 ford taurus sho with the performance pack. I only use premium gas, 92 in my area.
Recently I rebuilt the trans with all mew plates and friction discs and it ran fine but it had a leak that I couldn't get to stop. So I took the trans back out and apart and I believe I just didn't have the metal gasket on straight. Anyway, I put the trans back in and now when I put it in reverse there is a 5 or 6 second delay and then it slams Into reverse. When I put it in drive there's also a delay and then it catches the gear. I haven't tried to drive it like this because I'm afraid to mess something up. Also when I did try to drive it down the block and put it in drive the car moved forward but then would free Rev for a second before it caught the gear again.
So any guidance would be greatly appreciated. If I have to change the solenoids in the trans is there a way to do it without having to go to a dealership because the dealership in my area are horrible theives. I appreciate any and all help

 

[kryptto]

Since I haven't touched my transmission - and tbh would need to work with a shop, I am gonna try and call attention to some here that can possibly help with some advice.

There are a couple I haven't seen around in months. Lets see who responds.

@Ecoboost_xsport @yaycandy @SM105K @76FoMoCo @802SHO @Jordan_R

 

[SHOdded]

did you replace the sensors also? tss oss range ...? these symptoms started after the rebuild or pre-existed? you may want to check the solenoid body assembly and its filter. may have crap in the filter not allowing the sba to work properly. also if you used aftermarket sensors, they can cause issues tho usually not like this and not immediately.

sounds like you have all new fluid in the transmission?

 

[2013SHOpp]

No issues previously. It worked fine after I rebuilt it. I took it out again to look over a few things and when I put it back in I started having issues. It's a new filter that came in the 800$ rebuild kit. Original solenoids.

 

[2013SHOpp]

Also, is there supposed to be metal In The fluid? It's very fine. Like in engine oil. I assume it's from Everything being new, also new torque converter

 

[SHOdded]

there will be some breakin metals and grit initially but should settle down after a few hundred miles. would be a good idea to renew the fluid at that time.

do you have a link to the kit? most people i know will use an established vendor like sonnax to do this kind of work, there are of course others.

there are 2 filters: one for the entire transmission, one for the solenoid body assembly. the transmission one sits close to the pump.

you may want to consider measuring sensor performance if not pulling them/cleaning them/replacing them.

if all components pass the tests, then it is possible that the tune the pcm is running needs to be updated. the most common parameter is torque management. if you have performance components instead of oem grade ones, it is possible that this gives the pcm pause when deciding on the shift strategy in realtime. i have not seen this situation happen before, but neither am i familiar with torque management on these transmissions. just throwing it out there.

link for others interested in transmission upgrades: https://shoforum.com/threads/finally-released-raybestos.145524/

 

[2013SHOpp]

I used reputable parts. Also used a transgo shift kit for the valve body. Fist thing my wife said when she was in the car was it shifts great. And then I go mess with it like a ********. I just got finished draining the trans and removing the valve body and solenoid pack. Everything looked good. I changes the filter that sits between the solenoid pack and the valve body and also changes the one next to the pump. At this point The car still hesitated to go into reverse and when it did it slammed into gear. If I had to guess I'd say it's the solenoid or a sensor. The leak is coming from the circular part of the case that the clutch packs sit behind. I believe there is a Crack in it so I'm going to order another one and go from there. Luke I said before, before I messed with it trying to fix this leak it was awesome. Shifted great. I was very happy with it. But now all of a sudden it's doing this. Many I wasn't careful enough with the solenoid pack when I was inside there. If it is a solenoid pack is it possible to install without having to go to the dealership?

 

[SHOdded]

the new solenoid body assembly will have a shift strategy on the label, which may or may not be the same as the current one. a lot of times, you do not have to update the pcm with this information, only time will tell. if afterwards you feel you need to update the strategy, you can do so with forscan for windows + extended license. otherwise it is a simple programming change at the dealership or a properly equipped service shop that typically costs 1/2 hr labor to do.

hesitating to go into reverse and slamming into gear has been typical of solenoid body assembly symptoms on the edge/mkx platform. you can check its performance for yourself but it is time intensive

 

[kryptto]

Damn solenoids.... everything is so important with picking and choosing how to repair modern vehicles. Everything I am reading, the older days of not hand picking and replacing everything can seem problematic, Imo.

 

[2013SHOpp]

Is forscan able to do all of the things I will need it to do? The manual days to clear these codes and then do this and that etc.. forscan can do all of that?

 

[kryptto]

Hopefully I dont confuse things here. So if I am following @SHOdded correctly, and the Forscan knowledge I have - basically here is a lift and paste from Forscan.org and should be as updating the system with the proper strategy numbers.

Drive Train Type Missing​

I have a 2014 Ford PIU (Explorer) with a bad BCM. I have a used BCM from a Limited which was FWD.

The good news is that the car now starts. The bad news is that the transmission is banging and clunking. I tried the PCM Transmission configuration, but the screen shows:

Transmission: 6F FWD
Current solenoid strategy number: 3051310674806
Current solenoid body ID: 08BB87B

The strategy number and body ID are 100% correct.
The problem is that with the old BCM, I could set the drive train type. The Old BCM had a "Drive Train" selector box with 0 = FWD, 1 = 4WD ???, 2 = 4WD ???, and 4 = AWD. This option does not appear in the BCM for ForScan. Does anyone know the AB codes to set this option? Either to turn the Option selection back on, or to set this from FWD to AWD directly?

 

[SHOdded]

Is forscan able to do all of the things I will need it to do? The manual days to clear these codes and then do this and that etc.. forscan can do all of that?

not sure what "all" includes, but many of the programmatic items forscan has had the ability to. the service functions you only need forscan lite to perform - things where no programming or configuration changes are required.

 

[802SHO]

The valve body and solenoid assembly bolts need to be installed in sequence and to torque spec, any bolts out of sequence or spec could affect how a solenoid performs. I’ll assume you already knew that but wanted to mention it.

What makes me think it’s something overlooked is the fact that it was working great but had a leak. When you removed it and reinstalled it something changed and I don’t suspect it’s a bad solenoid.

Hate to say it but if you remove it again, I’m confident you’ll find the issue.

But at this point no harm in replacing the valve body and solenoid asssembly with brand new units from Ford. You handicapped your refresh by keeping the originals as the OEM design is flawed beyond belief. The valve body design is flawed, imagine this screen shot is a test and the wrong answers are in red, this wouldn’t be a passing grade, it’s a factory failure. OEM grenade. Multiple excessive wear areas all contributing to burnt clutches too.

 

[2013SHOpp]

So the leek is coming from a cracked in the circular panel that the clutch packs sit behind. It's actually the part you need to remove to get access to the clutch packs. So yea, there's a Crack in that that is letting trans fluid seep out.
I just took the car out about 5 minuts ago to the end of the street and back. The car seems to move ok if you stay under 5mph. If you go above that it acts like you put the clutch In on a stick shift. It just free revs until you get it moving slow again. And then it will catch. It's like it doesn't have any fluid in It so it can't build the pressure to keep the gear. But it does have fluid. But it also has that Crack in the casing. I'm sure pressure that should be doing work In The trans is escaping through that Crack causing this issue. Does this sound like a reasonable deduction?

 

[802SHO]

So the leek is coming from a cracked in the circular panel that the clutch packs sit behind. It's actually the part you need to remove to get access to the clutch packs. So yea, there's a Crack in that that is letting trans fluid seep out.
I just took the car out about 5 minuts ago to the end of the street and back. The car seems to move ok if you stay under 5mph. If you go above that it acts like you put the clutch In on a stick shift. It just free revs until you get it moving slow again. And then it will catch. It's like it doesn't have any fluid in It so it can't build the pressure to keep the gear. But it does have fluid. But it also has that Crack in the casing. I'm sure pressure that should be doing work In The trans is escaping through that Crack causing this issue. Does this sound like a reasonable deduction?

Yes

 

[2013SHOpp]

802SHO, SHODDED, KRYPTTO. ..
I appreciate all your guys help and input.
I've always had to figure everything out by myself. It's a constant struggle. My motto with this car is 4 steps forward, 3 steps back. It's a relief to know I have a place to get answers and suggestions to my ongoing struggles with this car.
I absolutely love this car, I will keep it forever. I also have a challenger rt shaker that I also am attached to. It's a 6 speed. But the sho is much quicker. The challenger is faster. If I was in a situation like running from the police I'd definitely pick the sho. The only thing I don't like is it's got a lot going on under the hood. The challenger is simple compared to the sho. Different strokes for different folks I guess

 

[2013SHOpp]

I have another question. I had the car hooked up to the computer and saw that there was a large difference between torque converter requested slip and the actual slip. That difference would make me think it's the TC that needs replacing, but it is a new converter so next logical assumption would be the tcc solenoid. Am I correct with this line of thinking? I initially had just ordered the specific solenoid by itself but in doing my research I realized I don't think I could be able to figure out a new strategy code for the thing to work correctly so I just ordered the entire solenoid body assembly. That way I'll have a new strategy to update the trans with. Am I missing something or am I overlooking something?

 

[SHOdded]

individual solenoids are not ford products for 6f50/55 transmission, iirc. 6f35, yes.

best of luck with the sba replacement, fingers crossed.

you can certainly inspect/clean the valve body, i assume that is well within your wheelhouse. purely mechanical, no electronics. sometimes we get burnt damaged or blocked pistons. to my knowledge the checkballs have never had to be replaced, but be sure to label where they came out of and put them back in the same exact position within the valve body.