Timing maybe

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92 3.0 sho mtx

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Ok so I have a ? I have a 92 3.0 when I got the car the water pump was bad so I pulled it off changed it well I pulled the timing belt off it all back together revved it a few times timing belt broke so pulled it all back apart changed it with a new one started the car now seems like it runs a little rougher at idle not cel but so put new plugs and wires new battery nothing has helped so if pulled it off three times just to make sure if did it right and seems so so this is the main problem I'm having from 800rpm I hit wot it will not go past 3000 rpm will stay between 2000 and about 2800 and sputter and boggs down but when go in to it slow it's fine hit wot from 3000 rpm it a revs fine any I pulled my spout out and it's running at 10 btdc put it back in and it's 5 btdc any help out there on what could be thanks for reads
 

rubydist

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what codes are there?

is the timing belt on correctly? can you show us pics of how the sprocket dots line up with the marks?
 

92 3.0 sho mtx

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And codes the car won't hook up to a tester or do the self test it will run it's course as if it's doing it but never stops running to test
 

rubydist

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upload your video to youtube and post a link to it here.
 

92 3.0 sho mtx

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Well I got ****** off so I pulled it back back apart lol ready to tack it out and just blow it up lol nothing is working with this car what do you need pic of and on the competition stroke and every thing lines up that way it says but he'll o really don't no at this point
 

92 3.0 sho mtx

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At tdc on the competition stroke
 

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rubydist

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ok that looks perfect as long as the damper pulley has not slipped on the hub.

codes: don't try with a code reader, they are very unreliable on the Ford obd1 units. Just hook up the jumper wire and count the flashes of the check engine light. If you have trouble with counting them, make a video of that and post it.
if you don't know how to hook up the jumper, go here: http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
 

rubydist

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the outer pulley (where the pointer is) is connected to the inner hub with bonded rubber. Sometimes when they get old, the rubber unbonds and allows the outer part of the pulley to move with respect to the hub. If this happens, the pointer for the timing may not be accurate.

What do you mean it runs the test but doesn't tell the codes?
 

rubydist

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it sounds like its working hard to run even at idle, and the way it sounds is typical of timing being off as you suggested earlier.

please post a video of what happens when you pull the codes.
 

92 3.0 sho mtx

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Lol this car is a pain it not pull any codes at last I think I'll half to check to see if the cel light even works lol I'll get back to you
 

rubydist

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When you turn the key to "on" with the engine off, the check engine light illuminates. If this does not happen, your cel is burned out or disconnected.

As sperold mentions above, you can use a test light to pull codes. The page I linked on how to pull codes shows you exactly how to connect it. Please do this so we can actually help you instead of just speculating and guessing.
 

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