ticking from engine, not rod bearings.

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rcsavage

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after i took that video, it started making a new noise. a lighter knock in addition to the other knock. it sounds like its very high up in the engine. im gonna pull the car in the garage and take off the intake and heads and see if i can find anything wrong.
 

rcsavage

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ok, i have the car apart. i pulled the valve covers, disconected the CCRM and had someone crank it over. i do not see anything abnormal happening. only thing that had me puzzled was oil shoots out of the timing chain tensioner from a little hole. im assuming its supposed to do that. it doesnt do this on the back bank which kind of puzzled me. anyone have anything to look for while the covers are off. if i cant find the problem here, im gonna have to take off the heads which requires alot of work. suggestions?
 

rcsavage

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i did not check the actualy tensioner but i did take off the upper timing belt cover and the belt is tight. this does not sounds like an accessory problem. it sounds like something has let go inside the engine.
 

Eric VerValin

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Maybe a bad valve spring, causing some kind of valve float? Can you pin point it any better with the covers off? And.. how did you get a look at the rear one. Being its upside down I would imagine its hard to see. Maybe its rattling against that bracket on the rear one. those chains should be pretty damn still looking while its cranking. If they are moving around at all, they might be rubbing against something. And.. if it is, part of those chains should be a tiny bit 'brighter' .. (shiny + er) dont know how to spell that word for some reason.. :( too much beer.. sorry.. :)
 

rcsavage

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my dad and i were thinking something along the lines of a valve spring, valve guide, something. and the back chain doesnt move when we cranked it and it is taught. alright, so do i have to take the heads off?
 

AREA 91

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I now think you ate your new rod bearings up. The combination of 5w-20 oil and "spirited driving" killed them.:oogle:
 

SASHO91

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why not just pull the pan off? the gaskets are still good.... and its not all that hard. And it will verify if they are spun.
 

rcsavage

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only problem is my exhaust studs are pretty much shot and its a miracle i got my ypipe on the first time, im afraid i wont be able to get it back on if i take it off. i spent an entire day trying to get a stud out of the manifold but they were fused together so i had to drill out the hole and just run a bolt through it. i do not want to have to take off the rear manifold as it seems impossible to do while the engine is in the car, and i dont want to drill out 3 more studs. should the studs be this hard to get out?

Edit: maybe ill just get a new set of exhaust manifolds so i can put new studs in them and i wont have to worry about them in the future.
 
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sho'd

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well your going to have to check some time bud. no 2 ways about it, 6 of one, half dozen of the other? good luck.
 

rcsavage

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alright i pulled down the y pipe but then i had to go to work so thats all i got done. one question for you, can the rear exhaust manifold be taken off with the engine is the car?
 

AREA 91

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Yes, you can remove the exhaust manifolds in the car (front or rear). I don't have the part # off hand for the exhaust studs. I'll post it later when I get to my garage. It's from the HELP rack.
 

93rev2sev

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ok. Video helps.
Would you say that the tick was happening at the same speed as the engine is rotating or half the speed the engine is rotating?
Get under the car and look at the crank pulley while it's running. Mark a spot on the crank pully with some highly visible paint or marker. You will be able to tell if the sound is occurring every revolution of the crank or every other revolution.

If it is occurring every revolution, then it's a shortblock sound (pistons rods wristpins, rod bearings, etc..

If it is occuring every other revolution, then it's a valvetrain noise. (bent valve, dislodged shim, broken spring, etc..)

I'll mess with the video and try to discearn the frequency.
 

93rev2sev

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ok here is the sound. I have isolated one second of the video during what sounded like the point the engine was running slowest.
Click here to watch 1-sec-is-1-sec

And here is that same 1 second clip slowed down so that you can count the ticks. (this is a 2+ mb file) be patient while it loads.
Click here to watch 1-sec-is-17-sec

The sound occurs 20-21 times per second at idle. If we assume (high) idle is 1200RPM then the engine is spinning 20 times per second also.

I guess this means that the ticking is occurring at the same rate as the crank is spinning. You better start looking at rod bearings.

If you want to be absolutely sure, re-record the video and get it to run at 1000RPM for a few seconds without changing the speed like you were with the throttle (it's hard to be sure without knowing the speed of the engine).
 
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rcsavage

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you are a god. ill pull the pan again and look. thank you so much. i would record a new video but the intake and valve covers are off right now so no start.
 

rcsavage

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alright im ready to pull the pan but that one nut tucked up on the side is being stubborn. im not sure but i think i stripped the head. how can i get this off? its too small of an area for pliers.
 

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