Found this..
So what did you do to your SHO today!?
- Thread starter LongNap
- Start date
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mustngkilla511HP
New Member
education…pass on the knowledge along…help each other out. This is a great group..
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Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Junkyard bounty
Pair of mirrors I'm going to wrap and relocate the BLIS to the interior sail. And the incredibly rare MK-T headlight switch that has a foglamp output. And a free coozy DILLY DILLY!
Pair of mirrors I'm going to wrap and relocate the BLIS to the interior sail. And the incredibly rare MK-T headlight switch that has a foglamp output. And a free coozy DILLY DILLY!
RickyRecon
SHO Member
Small FYI I forgot to include in my last post:
A few weeks ago I had reason to suspect a worn BOV o-ring, so I pulled them to check. Suspicion confirmed, but also found that Ford installed the BOVs for the transit van 3.5EB in my SHO.
Replaced both of them with the ones that typically come with the SHO (because that’s what the parts guy had in stock), and the old ones were noticeably louder when venting.
So anyone who has the VTA mod, and desires a more aggressive pssshhhh without going the aftermarket BOV route…it’s an option. (Part# FL3Z-9U465-A)
A few weeks ago I had reason to suspect a worn BOV o-ring, so I pulled them to check. Suspicion confirmed, but also found that Ford installed the BOVs for the transit van 3.5EB in my SHO.
Replaced both of them with the ones that typically come with the SHO (because that’s what the parts guy had in stock), and the old ones were noticeably louder when venting.
So anyone who has the VTA mod, and desires a more aggressive pssshhhh without going the aftermarket BOV route…it’s an option. (Part# FL3Z-9U465-A)
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thanks for the education, makes me wonder what the heck Ford put in my '14. I do have VTA and its quite loud. You can here it down the street. this wont fit a '14 - did you post your year?
I am getting the following for the following years for BOV replacement:
Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve - Ford (AA5Z-9U465-A)
Genuine OEM Ford Parts - Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve - AA5Z-9U465-A Ford Part Number - OEM Ford Part Fitment - 2010-2019 Ford
Joshw0000
SHO Member
I finished the install of my WolfBox G850 Pro over the weekend. I mentioned in a previous post the wiring kit from the supplier didn't work and I need to correct that. After buying a different one and having the same issue, I found that it does work fine BUT the direction of the fuse in the fuse box matters. It comes with fuse taps (2nd to last photo) where you pull a BAT & ACC fuse, add it to the fuse tap(s), and insert with the fuse provided for the camera. If the system won't power on, pull the fuse tap, flip it over, and reinstall. Also, I couldn't find a good ACC fuse with room for a fuse tap so I used a fuse extension (last photo) for that one.
All in, the actual mounting of the cameras and running of the wires took about 30 minutes (mostly figuring out where the sun shade would clear the rear camera), messing with the fuse box took about 3 hours, researching why it wouldn't work another couple hours, and a few days waiting on shipments for the replacement kit that I didn't need, fuse extender, and larger micro SD (replaced the 64 GB with a 256 GB). Knowing what I know now, I could get the correct parts the first time and install another one in 30 minutes.
I played with it some over the weekend and it's pretty slick. It's always on but only records 1 frame per second. If the car is bumped or it senses motion, it begins recording front/rear at full quality. If the battery drops too low, it'll shut off completely to save power.
When I crank the car, it turns on automatically. I can give it voice commands for things like switching the camera view, audio recording on/off, screen on/off, take a photo, etc. I have it set to automatically shut the screen off, where it looks like a normal mirror, after 30 seconds unless I wake it back up. I turned off or lowered the sensitivity for most of the safety features as they get a little annoying (lane departure, collision alert, etc).
I wish I'd had this thing several months ago when I got a ticket for going 45 in a 25. I'm sure I was only doing 43 (I kicked it to make a yellow light) and I was in a 35 MPH zone. I saw the cop at the light turning right as I went under the light. He asked me if I knew the speed limit at such-and-such intersection and informed me it was 25. I didn't argue or pay much attention to the intersections he named off until after he left. I went back and checked and the location he gave was 3 lights back in a 25. The location of where he saw me was actually 35. I spent a lot of time requesting "Discovery", talking to the police chief, court house, etc and they denied my request for discovery, telling me I could see it at court. So I went the route of paying a lawyer to get discovery. The cop immediately agreed to reduce it to a non-moving violation to stop the inquiry. So it cost me nearly $600 to get out of a ticket from a lying cop whereas if I'd had this thing (less than $200 with extras) I would have just went to court and won the case for free.
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All in, the actual mounting of the cameras and running of the wires took about 30 minutes (mostly figuring out where the sun shade would clear the rear camera), messing with the fuse box took about 3 hours, researching why it wouldn't work another couple hours, and a few days waiting on shipments for the replacement kit that I didn't need, fuse extender, and larger micro SD (replaced the 64 GB with a 256 GB). Knowing what I know now, I could get the correct parts the first time and install another one in 30 minutes.
I played with it some over the weekend and it's pretty slick. It's always on but only records 1 frame per second. If the car is bumped or it senses motion, it begins recording front/rear at full quality. If the battery drops too low, it'll shut off completely to save power.
When I crank the car, it turns on automatically. I can give it voice commands for things like switching the camera view, audio recording on/off, screen on/off, take a photo, etc. I have it set to automatically shut the screen off, where it looks like a normal mirror, after 30 seconds unless I wake it back up. I turned off or lowered the sensitivity for most of the safety features as they get a little annoying (lane departure, collision alert, etc).
I wish I'd had this thing several months ago when I got a ticket for going 45 in a 25. I'm sure I was only doing 43 (I kicked it to make a yellow light) and I was in a 35 MPH zone. I saw the cop at the light turning right as I went under the light. He asked me if I knew the speed limit at such-and-such intersection and informed me it was 25. I didn't argue or pay much attention to the intersections he named off until after he left. I went back and checked and the location he gave was 3 lights back in a 25. The location of where he saw me was actually 35. I spent a lot of time requesting "Discovery", talking to the police chief, court house, etc and they denied my request for discovery, telling me I could see it at court. So I went the route of paying a lawyer to get discovery. The cop immediately agreed to reduce it to a non-moving violation to stop the inquiry. So it cost me nearly $600 to get out of a ticket from a lying cop whereas if I'd had this thing (less than $200 with extras) I would have just went to court and won the case for free.
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Joshw0000
SHO Member
That's the one he's saying we could use to make it louder, not the OEM one. It's for vans, F150's, etc.
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I just put a RedTiger in my wifes car and daily driver, I love seeing other products people find. BTW it LOOKS very much like my RegTiger camera interface. Yeah I know cameras cut both ways legally, however with all the crap that goes on out there... almost mandatory nowadays.
misunderstood, thanks for clarifying!
RickyRecon
SHO Member
Sorry, I apparently typed the incorrect part number in the post, and have edited it to the correct one. That part number is for the ones typically found in the SHO/f-150 etc. The van one is
FL3Z-9U465-A
It does say 2016-2023 MY (mine is a ‘17) but I think it would still work. Don’t quote me on this, but the fitment and connector are exactly the same on both parts, since they both work in my SHO. Could be it just says 2016+ because that’s when they started making them?
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Joshw0000
SHO Member
Now I'm curious. What's the part # of the one you took off? I thought that was the one for the other vehicles? At least when I search it doesn't mention the SHO, but I didn't spend a lot of time checking.
Genuine OEM Ford Part - Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve FL3Z-9U465-A | Genuine OEM Ford Parts & Accessories
Genuine OEM Ford Parts Online - Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve - Ford Part # FL3Z-9U465-A - Shop Discount OEM Ford Parts & Ford Accessories Direct Online At Discount Pricing.
www.oemfordpart.com
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RickyRecon
SHO Member
Yeah I was confused too lol. The part # stamped onto the BOVs I removed were what I wrote in the original post, but searching that part number directs to the ones that have the orange diaphragm. The updated part number I posted directs to the ones I actually removed.Now I'm curious. What's the part # of the one you took off? I thought that was the one for the other vehicles? At least when I search it doesn't mention the SHO, but I didn't spend a lot of time checking.
Genuine OEM Ford Part - Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve FL3Z-9U465-A | Genuine OEM Ford Parts & Accessories
Genuine OEM Ford Parts Online - Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve - Ford Part # FL3Z-9U465-A - Shop Discount OEM Ford Parts & Ford Accessories Direct Online At Discount Pricing.
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They don’t mention the SHO, but since they were factory installed without issue for nearly 100k miles they’re definitely compatible.
I’m just going to chalk it up to another classic case of Ford part# weirdness. You know how they are sometimes
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
found a part number decoder list. according to the list below, the part number FL3Z-9U465-A was specified for the trucks as service equipment in 2015. This part number: AA5Z-9U465-A, was specified for the MKS in 2010.Now I'm curious. What's the part # of the one you took off? I thought that was the one for the other vehicles? At least when I search it doesn't mention the SHO, but I didn't spend a lot of time checking.
Genuine OEM Ford Part - Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve FL3Z-9U465-A | Genuine OEM Ford Parts & Accessories
Genuine OEM Ford Parts Online - Turbocharger Boost Pressure Relief Valve - Ford Part # FL3Z-9U465-A - Shop Discount OEM Ford Parts & Ford Accessories Direct Online At Discount Pricing.
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go down a rabbit hole with me: The MKS and SHO were the first vehicles to have the 3.5EB as far as I can tell, they didnt start production in the trucks until 2011 and the explorer until 2012 (which debunks our cars being based on an SUV, its the other way around) I believe that our cars were the test beds for the ecoboost project with adaptations made for other vehicles based off of it (bigger turbos, longitudinal orientation, cam profile, etc.) since this was likely a lincoln project to begin with as most new tech is, the original part number wouldve been designated a lincoln vehicle, the MKS and simply used in all other applications. in 2015 the F150 got a full redesign and while the EB didnt change until 2017 its possible some peripheral parts were redesigned to achieve some other goal with the new platform. I would say its an updated part but the last letter(s) in ford part numbers are varient codes or updates to the same design. thats what makes this interesting, the part number in questions goes to a F150 and fits our cars but it is designated as a first version with the code "A" at the end. it gets deeper, in 2017 the MKS was killed off for the continental which uses the 3.0 instead of the 3.5, which would explain why the SHO isnt listed until 17+ because before then it was an MKS part number. my conclusion to this whole thing, They changed something for the trucks in 2015 and gave it its own part number prior to which all EBs used the same MKS part number and now the 2 parts are interchangeable with minimal differences, but thats my take based on the info I've found.
First letter (year)
X - 1999
Y - 2000
1 THRU 9 2001 - 2009
A - 2010
B - 2011
C - 2012
D - 2013
E - 2014
F - 2015 (and so on skipping ioq)
Second letter and third number (vehicle model)
A1 – MKX
A2 – EXPLORER
A5 – MKS
A6 – FIESTA
A8 – FLEX
B5 – EXPLORER(2011)
C2 – ECONOLINE
C3 – F250HD/350/450/550
C4 – F650/750/L-SERIES/CARGO CF
C5 – AVIATOR
C6 – BLACKWOOD
C7 – EXCURSION
E6 – MARINER
E9 – MKT
F1 – TAURUS (FROM 99 THRU 2006)
F2 – FREESTAR/MONTEREY/WINDSTAR
F3 – CONTINENTIAL
F4 – SABLE (FROM 99 THRU 2006)
F5 – VILLAGER
F9 – FREESTYLE / TAURUS X
G1 – FIVE HUNDRED(REPLACED BY TAURUS 2000)
G7 – FORD GT
H6 – ZEPHYR (REPLACED BY MKZ IN 2007)
J5 – ESCAPE (2013)
L1 – EXPEDITION
L2 – EXPLORER(UP TO 2010)
L3 – F150/MARK LT/RAPTOR
L5 – RANGER
L6 – AEROSTAR
L7 – NAVIGATOR
L8 – ESCAPE
L9 – MOUNTAINEER
M1 – TRACER
M6 – ESCAPE/MARINER (HYBRID MODELS)
N7 – MILAN
P9- FOCUS (2012)
R3 – MUSTANG
R9 – MARK VIII
S1 – ASPIRE
S2 – CONTOUR
S4 – ******/FOCUS (up to 2011 on Focus)
S8 – PROBE
S9 – MYSTIQUE
T1 – TRANSIT
T4 – EDGE
T5 – MONTEGO (SABLE REPLACED MONTEGO 2000)
U2 – MOTORCRAFT
U3 – OUTSIDE SALES
U9 – F53 CHASSIS /MOTORHOME/PARCEL TRUCKS
V1 – FUSION
W1 – TOWNCAR
W2 – COUGAR
W3 – GRAND MARQUIS
W4 – LINCOLN LS
W6 – THUNDERBIRD
W7 – CROWN VICTORIA
Fourth letter (engineering dept. responsible for original parts design)
A – LIGHT TRUCK ENGINEERING
B – BODY & ELECTRICAL
C – CHASSIS ENGINEERING
D – OVERSEAS ENGINEERING
E – ENGINE DIVISION
F – ELECTRICAL & ELECTRONICS DIVISION
G – ELECTRONIC ENGINEERING (BRAZIL)
H – CLIMATE CONTROL DIVISION
J – FORD PARTS & SERVICE DIVISION
K – IMPORT COMPONENTS ENGINEERING
L – INDUSTRIAL ENGINE OPERATIONS
M – PERFORMANCE OPERATIONS/ SPECIAL VEHICLE TEAM
P – AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION & AXLE ENGINEERING
R – MANUAL TRANSMISSION & AXLE ENGINEERING
S – LIGHT & HEAVY TRUCK ENGINEERING
T – HEAVY TRUCK ENGINEERING
U – ELECTRICAL &FUEL HANDLING DIVISION
V – SPECIAL VEHICLE ENGINEERING
W – TRANSMISSION & AXLE &DRIVELINE
X – PLASTICS AND TRIM
Y – FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE(LINCOLN / MERCURY
Z – FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE
8 – ELECTRIC VEHICLE ENGINEERING
Fifth thru ninth digit (basic part number group)
1000 -1250 WHEELS/HUBS/DRUMS
2001 -2900 BRAKES
3000 -3764 FRONT SUSPENSION / STEERING
4000 -4296 REAR AXLE
4600 -4859 DRIVESHAFT
5000 -5176 FRAME
5200 -5299 EXHAUST
5300 -5499 FRONT SUSPENSION /STABILIZER
5550 -5832 REAR SPRINGS
6000 -6898 ENGINE BASE ASSEMBLY
6905 -7997 TRANSMISSION AND DRIVETRAIN / CLUTCH RELATED
8000 -8499 RADIATOR /GRILLE
8500 -8689 WATER PUMP AND FAN
9000 -9296 FUEL TANK /SUPERCHARGER
9301 -9420 FUEL PUMPS
9421 -9499 MANIFOLDS /CLAMPS/INTAKE AND EXHAUST
9500 - 9599 CARBURETORS/SUPERCHARGERS
9600 - 9699 AIR CLEANER
9700 - 9999 ACCELERATOR/CHOKE &LINKAGE
10500 - 10576 BATTERY/VOLTAGE REGULATOR
11000 - 11382 STARTER
11450 - 11688 LIGHTING/IGNITION SWITCH
12000 - 12425 IGNITION COIL/SPARK PLUGS/DISTRIBUTOR/CONDENSER
13002 – 14689 LAMPS/HORNS/WIRING
15000 – 15858 MISCELLANEOUS ACCESSORIES
16000 – 16999 FENDERS/HOOD
17248 – 17383 SPEEDOMETER/TACH
17402 – 17666 WINDSHIELD WIPERS/WASHER
17700 – 17999 MIRRORS AND BUMPERS
18000 – 18125 SHOCK ABSORBERS
18148 – 18249 COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE ACCESSORIES
18250 – 18699 HEATER
18800 – 18900 RADIO/SPEAKERS
19500 – 19585 CUSTOM ACCESSORIES
19600 – 19898 AIR CONDITIONING
Joshw0000
SHO Member
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
New (to me) spotter glass style mirrors with led puddle lights. Plast dipped the mirror caps on the replacement mirrors and did the window visors while I was at it. Visors came out good, not loving the mirror caps. No more out of place chrome
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
First go at headlight film. Darker than I wanted but need the protection in FL. have a few wrinkles but I'm living with it, might try again another time. Used the left over to tint the trunk badge 
I am smelling a similar markup to mine... Like looking into a mirror. To be fair - mine is a copy of the hundreds before her. Copying is a compliment to all of the other before it.. Looks great, headlight film is a ******. I used a combination of heat gun and blow dryer. Too much heat and burn through the tint. I hate all the chrome on modern cars... Getting tacky after decades if the same.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Thank you, and I would be lying if I said I wasn't inspired, one day we will get these two side by side and itll be a great photo. And it is absolutely a bitch but more forgiving than I expected, I broke out the heat gun after removing the drivers side about 6 times and then realized the roll only had enough for 2 headlights, no 2nd chances so I did the best I could, next time will go smoother since I got the passenger side almost perfect. Since getting rid of the window chrome the stance of the car seems lower (i know its only an illusion). I can appreciate chrome on the right application or in the right areas, for example I dont mind the SHO lettering on the fender, but Im not a big fan of the ring around the vent so ill be smoking or going matte with it but leaving the letters.
******* I yeah was my thoughts reading my mind...
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