Brewineer
New Member
Lol, I got the "Wipers only turn on at max speed setting and randomly activates the wiper fluid pump" issue. Going to try to replace the wiper motor because apparently that controls the fluid pump?
So what did you do to your SHO today!?
- Thread starter LongNap
- Start date
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Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Welcome to the 6 digit club! Where we replace a major component every oil change!
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Sounds like 90s mopar, park near a 96 grand cherokee lately? You may have caught something
2K16SHO
Member
And no mention of a RDU fliud change. What kind of crazy is this?
2K16SHO
Member
I got it from Zencarbonfiber and they do offer the option of heated which I went with. Kind of silly for me since it's a summer car but it would bug me if it didn't work! The heat is only in the side grips though, something about potential damage to the carbon fiber area.
Thanks for sharing
Well the farking 4th time was a chime. Not without its own hiccups. A very special thanks to @802SHO, @Junkyard_Mad-Scientist, and @Zpak.
One cr@ppy HP fuel line connection. In my experience, threading the XDI Evo hpf line is just wrong and a disaster waiting to happen. Mine is on and now working.
That connector is a bit of a pain since it wont let you pull the HPFP line to the pump. Its a cloogy hookup for sure. I even after tightening it all the down still had a small leak. I loaded the tune, and she is running. Not after having a personal call to Andrew to slow down my thinking.
I had a horribly rough idle - almost stalling out. Pulled the DTC and it reported a non operational throttle position sensor. I went over to the electrical connector, it was on, however not "clicked" onto the TB. All working. Ready to burn corn, and tweak my 93 tune. @802SHO thanks again.
One cr@ppy HP fuel line connection. In my experience, threading the XDI Evo hpf line is just wrong and a disaster waiting to happen. Mine is on and now working.
That connector is a bit of a pain since it wont let you pull the HPFP line to the pump. Its a cloogy hookup for sure. I even after tightening it all the down still had a small leak. I loaded the tune, and she is running. Not after having a personal call to Andrew to slow down my thinking.
I had a horribly rough idle - almost stalling out. Pulled the DTC and it reported a non operational throttle position sensor. I went over to the electrical connector, it was on, however not "clicked" onto the TB. All working. Ready to burn corn, and tweak my 93 tune. @802SHO thanks again.
RickyRecon
SHO Member
Oh let’s see. Finally got a little time off of work, and I’m creeping up on the 100k mark so I figured it was a good time to start chipping away at wear items, and some all around maintenance. Made some changes.
As for regular maintenance stuff, I am now on the ultra platinum train. I never had any cause for concern with the Amsoil, but the ultra platinum is arguably just as good, but for half the price. I mainly like the higher Molly, boron, and borate ester (very likely but unable to confirm without access to the formula) reported in VOA. So yeah, there’s that. I’ve also switched filters. Over the past year or two, I’ve on occasion gotten a few FL-500s filters that I can only assume had faulty anti-drainback valves. I’ve never had anything resembling cold start rattle of any kind, but randomly after a handful of different oil changes, it would let out a single clack upon cold start. Not every time, mainly if I was parked unevenly/ambient temp was low. Then after the next oil change, it wouldn’t do it at all. Anyway, I decided to give the purolator boss a go, and I’m on my second one now with no issues yet. Sounds like brand new on cold starts. So we’ll see. Changed the PCV valve again too because it’s $9 and takes 20 seconds. Also ran the top of my UPR through my ultrasonic cleaner with a simple green solution just cause.
I finally got around to drilling and tapping a drain plug in my PTU. Switched over to the LWSP oil, so wanted to make sure I got as much of the old out as I could. Drained it, filled with redline, drove it for a couple hundred miles, then drained and filled again. It’s my understanding the LWSP is better at “cleanin”, and I’m liking the “reduced drag” in the PTU. I’m used to it now, but that first drive after switching was quite noticeable. Nothing you guys don’t already know though. Gonna do the same to the RDU soon, and will drain and fill the trans again at that time.
Changed the passenger side engine, and upper transmission mounts. Shifts were feeling a little sloppy, and at 98k miles, I figured they were long overdue. Engine mount required pulling a couple coolant hoses, so a gallon of fresh yellow got cycled in as a result. Gave the upper trans mount the window weld treatment too. Im not sure how much of it is the window weld vs. just the mount(s) being new, but regardless everything feels much much tighter….
….now here is the weird part. For a little while I’ve been having this annoying thing where occasionally when I’d start braking, or accelerate out of a turn, I would get a slight shimmy side to side, almost like when one tire gets into an uneven spot in the road or something. Figured maybe I had a caliper issue somewhere because it happened more when braking than any other time, but everything checked out good there. Checked all the suspension components, and while I’m sure at this mileage things are starting to get a little tired, I found no concerning play anywhere. Still feels solid. However, after replacing the mounts, it hasn’t done it since. Only thing I can think of was the worn out mounts were allowing excessive movement when downshifting while applying brakes, and movement when getting on the gas out of a turn. Either way, pleasantly surprised.
On deck we have shocks, and H&Rs going in. Ordered the PP shocks (my adhd ass ran vin numbers of SHO’s on sale until I found one with the right final drive because the whole “painted calipers” thing made me nervous lol), new insulators for the rear springs, boot kits (bellows and bump stops), front and rear strut/shock mounts, the SPC bolts just in case, and front sway bar links. Did the rears when I installed the whiteline, and figured the fronts have to come out to change the struts, so might as well. once the parts get delivered, they’ll be going in right away.
After that I need to get new rubber before winter sets in, and this spring I’ll be getting some aftermarket rims. Ideally some 20x9/9.5 +30-35’s, and just use the flowers for winter.
Over the winter I’ll be doing tie rods, toe links, ball joints, and control arm bushings. I wanted do do everything at the same time as the shocks, and just get one alignment, but that was more money than I wanted to drop at once. Again, they all still feel solid, but that could change tomorrow, so I’d rather do it before they actually wear out and potentially cause other problems. Just a question if I want do do the bushings the old fashioned way, or eat the cost and buy assemblies. For the fronts I’m considering the Mevotech TTX. I’ve heard good things about that line, and unlike the motorcraft, they come with hardware, and are greaseable. Not to mention ~$170 cheaper for the pair. Idk, we’ll see. On second thought, I’m going to at least order the rear lower control arms to install when I do the springs. They’ll be half way to being out when I install them, and it would be dumb to take them back out to replace the bushings down the road. Walnut blasting is in the near future as well.
Oh, I also got a touch up kit, and have corrected some rock chips. So I’ll be doing a paint correction +ceramic coating, and then killing the chrome. I bought the pre-cut vinyl kit off of eBay, so I’m pretty stoked to finally be rid of the shininess.
Once the “grown up” parts are all changed out, then I can finally start moving on the go faster parts. Fuel pumps & downpipes will be first up in that regard.
Jesus Christ… If you made it this far, I apologize for the stream of consciousness rambling. In my defense, you guys are the only people who care about what happens to these cars, so I’ve got no where else to really go on about it lol
As for regular maintenance stuff, I am now on the ultra platinum train. I never had any cause for concern with the Amsoil, but the ultra platinum is arguably just as good, but for half the price. I mainly like the higher Molly, boron, and borate ester (very likely but unable to confirm without access to the formula) reported in VOA. So yeah, there’s that. I’ve also switched filters. Over the past year or two, I’ve on occasion gotten a few FL-500s filters that I can only assume had faulty anti-drainback valves. I’ve never had anything resembling cold start rattle of any kind, but randomly after a handful of different oil changes, it would let out a single clack upon cold start. Not every time, mainly if I was parked unevenly/ambient temp was low. Then after the next oil change, it wouldn’t do it at all. Anyway, I decided to give the purolator boss a go, and I’m on my second one now with no issues yet. Sounds like brand new on cold starts. So we’ll see. Changed the PCV valve again too because it’s $9 and takes 20 seconds. Also ran the top of my UPR through my ultrasonic cleaner with a simple green solution just cause.
I finally got around to drilling and tapping a drain plug in my PTU. Switched over to the LWSP oil, so wanted to make sure I got as much of the old out as I could. Drained it, filled with redline, drove it for a couple hundred miles, then drained and filled again. It’s my understanding the LWSP is better at “cleanin”, and I’m liking the “reduced drag” in the PTU. I’m used to it now, but that first drive after switching was quite noticeable. Nothing you guys don’t already know though. Gonna do the same to the RDU soon, and will drain and fill the trans again at that time.
Changed the passenger side engine, and upper transmission mounts. Shifts were feeling a little sloppy, and at 98k miles, I figured they were long overdue. Engine mount required pulling a couple coolant hoses, so a gallon of fresh yellow got cycled in as a result. Gave the upper trans mount the window weld treatment too. Im not sure how much of it is the window weld vs. just the mount(s) being new, but regardless everything feels much much tighter….
….now here is the weird part. For a little while I’ve been having this annoying thing where occasionally when I’d start braking, or accelerate out of a turn, I would get a slight shimmy side to side, almost like when one tire gets into an uneven spot in the road or something. Figured maybe I had a caliper issue somewhere because it happened more when braking than any other time, but everything checked out good there. Checked all the suspension components, and while I’m sure at this mileage things are starting to get a little tired, I found no concerning play anywhere. Still feels solid. However, after replacing the mounts, it hasn’t done it since. Only thing I can think of was the worn out mounts were allowing excessive movement when downshifting while applying brakes, and movement when getting on the gas out of a turn. Either way, pleasantly surprised.
On deck we have shocks, and H&Rs going in. Ordered the PP shocks (my adhd ass ran vin numbers of SHO’s on sale until I found one with the right final drive because the whole “painted calipers” thing made me nervous lol), new insulators for the rear springs, boot kits (bellows and bump stops), front and rear strut/shock mounts, the SPC bolts just in case, and front sway bar links. Did the rears when I installed the whiteline, and figured the fronts have to come out to change the struts, so might as well. once the parts get delivered, they’ll be going in right away.
After that I need to get new rubber before winter sets in, and this spring I’ll be getting some aftermarket rims. Ideally some 20x9/9.5 +30-35’s, and just use the flowers for winter.
Over the winter I’ll be doing tie rods, toe links, ball joints, and control arm bushings. I wanted do do everything at the same time as the shocks, and just get one alignment, but that was more money than I wanted to drop at once. Again, they all still feel solid, but that could change tomorrow, so I’d rather do it before they actually wear out and potentially cause other problems. Just a question if I want do do the bushings the old fashioned way, or eat the cost and buy assemblies. For the fronts I’m considering the Mevotech TTX. I’ve heard good things about that line, and unlike the motorcraft, they come with hardware, and are greaseable. Not to mention ~$170 cheaper for the pair. Idk, we’ll see. On second thought, I’m going to at least order the rear lower control arms to install when I do the springs. They’ll be half way to being out when I install them, and it would be dumb to take them back out to replace the bushings down the road. Walnut blasting is in the near future as well.
Oh, I also got a touch up kit, and have corrected some rock chips. So I’ll be doing a paint correction +ceramic coating, and then killing the chrome. I bought the pre-cut vinyl kit off of eBay, so I’m pretty stoked to finally be rid of the shininess.
Once the “grown up” parts are all changed out, then I can finally start moving on the go faster parts. Fuel pumps & downpipes will be first up in that regard.
Jesus Christ… If you made it this far, I apologize for the stream of consciousness rambling. In my defense, you guys are the only people who care about what happens to these cars, so I’ve got no where else to really go on about it lol
At least it's not one paragraph. You are getting stuff done 4 sure.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
You're definitely right about that, sometimes you wanna go where everybody knows your name. Yada Yada Yada troubles all the same and what not. I bet Miata guys don't have this problem.
Solid plan, I too experienced the LWSP difference and have this forum to thank for that. I got a feeling I'm due for a full suspension overhaul myself but I'm in denial due to budget constraints. Make sure you show us the wheels you decide on
Got my modified 93 tune installed.
From Brad:
"Ok so the logs looked really good. Going to make a few small changes and also add some boost. Going to set the target for about 16.5 psi and let it spike up on shifts. You can ride the boost wave a bit because you are going to start to get some boost taper above 5500rpm which is normal. I'm going to let the wastegates hit it hard to try and help the boost taper. I'm guessing I'm going to see wastegate duty over 90 now with the new boost target. But you should hit 18 or so on shift spikes. Fuel pressure and trims looked perfect. And low pressure side was great as well. Knock sensors were flat so the spark tuning is great but I'm going to pull a degree and if the knock sensors are happy it will add spark back in. But you were hitting 18 degrees so on 93 oct and higher boost that is great.
Give this tune a set of logs but and we'll see how it looks. You should feel some more power on this now. It should be making pretty good power on this tune. Also I'm letting the throttle stay open more now because you don't need the throttle control to help with fuel pressure so all of those little changes plus the new boost target should wake it up. "
From Brad:
"Ok so the logs looked really good. Going to make a few small changes and also add some boost. Going to set the target for about 16.5 psi and let it spike up on shifts. You can ride the boost wave a bit because you are going to start to get some boost taper above 5500rpm which is normal. I'm going to let the wastegates hit it hard to try and help the boost taper. I'm guessing I'm going to see wastegate duty over 90 now with the new boost target. But you should hit 18 or so on shift spikes. Fuel pressure and trims looked perfect. And low pressure side was great as well. Knock sensors were flat so the spark tuning is great but I'm going to pull a degree and if the knock sensors are happy it will add spark back in. But you were hitting 18 degrees so on 93 oct and higher boost that is great.
Give this tune a set of logs but and we'll see how it looks. You should feel some more power on this now. It should be making pretty good power on this tune. Also I'm letting the throttle stay open more now because you don't need the throttle control to help with fuel pressure so all of those little changes plus the new boost target should wake it up. "
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If this doesn’t make ppl jealous I don’t know what will. A tuner who puts as much thought into his tunes as he does communicating with his customers. How many ppl get a tune revision and all you get told is, “Here you go”. “Try this”. “This should be better”. And you don’t have the slightest clue what’s different or what any tuning targets are. Brad Fischer (AJPTurbo) is a step above the rest.
Right on... figured I would give everyone a taste of Brad's work. BTW a piece of advice.... just hit send on your email, don't be a nudge or annoying. He will always respond. Be patient.
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cole3498
Member
Just ordered a GH IC, as if I need lower IATs…
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Bullitt5094
Member
2016 with 74K with no prior maintenance except tires and engine oil.
Changed the transfer case oil
Changed the engine oil
Changed the air filter to K&N
Changed the rear diff
Changed the coolant
Checked the BOVs diaphrams
Changed the transmission fluid.
Good SHO. It needed some attention...
Changed the transfer case oil
Changed the engine oil
Changed the air filter to K&N
Changed the rear diff
Changed the coolant
Checked the BOVs diaphrams
Changed the transmission fluid.
Good SHO. It needed some attention...
Just more to show off the attention that AJP Turbo pays to fine tuning... even after issuing me a tune from my last logs, even again, to tweak here or there, Brad is asking for more to get every bit of squeeze from the juice:
"Jason,
The log looked good. Ok few more tweaks. I'm going to dial in even less throttle control. You don't need it, fuel pressure was great and it will probably let the boost spike even more. You are getting some boost taper so I want to get the duty cycle up to help fight that but we will still get it. The stock turbos struggle with high boost at high RPM. Fuel looked good. Spark looked good. I did add another half pound of boost to the target so you should feel another bump but it should be making decent power now.
Give it a set of logs...Just a single multigear pull and 3rd gear is plenty of data not.
Brad F"
@802SHO for visibility.
"Jason,
The log looked good. Ok few more tweaks. I'm going to dial in even less throttle control. You don't need it, fuel pressure was great and it will probably let the boost spike even more. You are getting some boost taper so I want to get the duty cycle up to help fight that but we will still get it. The stock turbos struggle with high boost at high RPM. Fuel looked good. Spark looked good. I did add another half pound of boost to the target so you should feel another bump but it should be making decent power now.
Give it a set of logs...Just a single multigear pull and 3rd gear is plenty of data not.
Brad F"
@802SHO for visibility.
The transparency, the way he shares what he sees, what he does and why, it becomes personal. Feels like you’re chatting with a close associate that you can trust, like your Primary Care Dr. That wants you to have as much success as if it were their own car being tuned. Such a talent. Rare.
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