Rod bearing questions... possibly new things to talk about?

[ACV1081]

OK OK, I know this has been hashed out many a time, but I just want some fresh thoughts on the rod bearing issue. I am scheduling this for the spring for my 93 ATX with 153K miles and no knowlege of a rod bearing job ever. I have the procedure well documented from Scott P. and Kurt M., but the parts list I wanted to get an up to date run down on.
Where to buy the following ?:

Clevite rod bearings-cb-1435P 6 sets, still Napa?

Plastigauge-.001-.003 thickness

Oil pump pickup tube gasket-#E9DZ6626A

Oil pan gasketFelpro-OS 30636 R

Exhaust flex pipe gasket for 3.2?

Also, some extra exhaust manifold studs and nuts?

Do I need anything else?

Finally, what's everyone's take on the main bearings? I replaced them when building my 3.2 for the 91, but how much more work/risk will it be to do this with the motor in the car? I plan on driving the car until the wheels fall off, but I have put on only 12K per year over the past 4 years(`48K total), so it's not like I drive 100K a year.

So, I appreciate everyone's input and trust me I've been reading the archives left and right... just wanted a personalized post assesing the situation I have with a 15xK ATX which I'd like to drive for a long while yet. Thanks in advance thumb

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

your list looks accurate, but Im going to be lazy and not check it.

I wil answer this though:

ACV1081:
I replaced them when building my 3.2 for the 91, but how much more work/risk will it be to do this with the motor in the car?

The only difference between changing them on a stand, and in the car is the difficulty removing and installing the oil pan.

I managed to (as well as many, many others have) change the rod bearings with the car on jack stands (or ramps), lying on our backs, with oil drippin' on your face

But back to the pan. The pan can be very tough to remove. The motor mounts like to get in the way. Then you must apply RTV and try to get it installed without sliming everything with the fresh RTV (and screwing up your nice bead of rtv)??

well, it can be tough. But not impossible by any means. And by no means would I consider pulling the motor just for rod bearings. thumb

 

[ACV1081]

*NOTE* I have become very good friends with a local shop that just so happens not to be open on the weekends... hummmm wonder if the lift would make life easier, or perhaps the full range of snap-on tools, better yet the mechanic who always helps me with these projects?
I'm no fool, that lift is the only way this thing is being done. I've just about got my dad convinced into installing one in the shed we're rebuilding next spring. Thanks for the reply BTW... after reading about main bearings I'm thinking no. Seems 200K is still a ways away and I'll be needing a 60K about that time anyways. Ugh, I cannot believe that trip to Scott's was 23K ago already rant

 

[sdpatt]

In addition to the oil pan fitment is the removal of the rust-belted Y-pipe nuts. If you have had the Y-pipe off recently then that may not be a concern, but the deep 15mm socket and PB Blaster or equivalent are required items.

One tip on applying the RTV for the oil pan seal is to practice installing the pan without the RTV. When you have figured out how to manipulate the pan for the easiest installation, then apply the RTV to the bottom of the crankcase, not the top of the oil pan. That way you don't touch the RTV until the pan has cleared the obstructions and is ready for mating to the block.

Double check the oil pan nuts and bolts, especially those hiding near the transaxle end, before trying to pry the pan off the block.

If you can't get the oil pickup tube gasket, cut your own from oil-resistant bulk gasket material for a small expense.

The Plastigage is somewhat optional because what are you going to do differently if the gap is not in spec? Also, not using it saves a complete tensioning cycle on the studs.

 

[Rockledge]

Adam, I just did my rod bearings a few weeks back and it all went according to plan. I'm fairly handy with tools, but no wiz, believe me. I prepared for the job using the same resources that you are using. Scott's recent post outlining the procedure was particularly helpful.

Here's where I picked up my parts:

- Clevite rod bearings-cb-1435P (NAPA - Had to order them, took about 5 days to come in).

- Plastigauge (NAPA - I only measured one gap, on the bearing that looked the most worn, and to my inexperienced eye, it looked like it was within spec, so I did not check any others).

- Oil pump pickup tube gasket #E9DZ6626A (Made my own gasket, which you will probably have to do. I bought a generic gasket kit from NAPA with several different sheets of various gasket matarials and thicknesses. I think it didn't even cost me 5 bucks. I was able to match up something in the gasket kit to the original gasket very well, and simply cut it out).

- Oil pan gasket Felpro-OS 30636 R (AutoZone - Had to order it and it took 2 days to come in).

- Exhaust flex pipe gasket (NAPA).

- Exhaust manifold studs and nuts (NAPA - I didn't need to use any, though).

Also, the deep 15mm socket and PB Blaster were both necessities for me. I only wish I had remembered to spray the Y-Pipe/Exhaust nuts and bolts the night before.

I gave the oil pan a few whacks with a soft rubber mallet from different angles to looosen it up once I had all the bolts off. Popped off a little, and then it was very easy to drop from there.

Obviously you want to clean up the pan and oil pickup tube/screen when they are out. I used solvent and compressed air.

When I went to put the pan back on, I did a "dry run" as was suggested, noting not only how the pan best went back on, but also how I could position myself for the best leverage. This seemed to work well as I was able to get the pan on without dropping it on my forehead or ending up with RTV mustache.

Hope this helps...good luck!

(P.S. Those hood strut relocators are working out great!)

 

[Yamaha V6]

There is a considerable difference in doing the main bearings in the car, over out of the car. The rods are the same exact work, except on your back with oil dripping in your face.

If you can't get the oil pump pickup tube gasket by itself Adam, get the Fel-Pro oil pump mounting kit - it has the front crank, front oil pan seal, oil pump to block & oil pump pickup tube gasket. It's about $17, IIRC.

 

[haydenm315]

NotSoSlowSHO:
I managed to (as well as many, many others have) change the rod bearings with the car on jack stands (or ramps), lying on our backs, with oil drippin' on your face D

Isn't that the truth. I don't even have a creeper. My head was so soaked with oil from laying in it. I caught a few drops in the eye and a lot on the face. Seems the damn thing just wont stop dripping oil.

But back to the pan. The pan can be very tough to remove. The motor mounts like to get in the way. Then you must apply RTV and try to get it installed without sliming everything with the fresh RTV (and screwing up your nice bead of rtv)??

I also vouch for the pan being a pita to get back up. Funny thing is that I didn't have trouble until I had to do it for the final time with the rtv on. I recommend practicing and getting a gameplan before the final assembly. One pan bolt is annoying to put on, but that's about it.

well, it can be tough. But not impossible by any means. And by no means would I consider pulling the motor just for rod bearings. thumb

I did it with no prior experience. Just have faith in yourself. Make sure you slide the bearings in, tabbed side last. You should press the lower bearings into the rod caps and bolt em up.

 

[oh_SHO]

Glad you started this thread. I am doing mine in a few weeks. Its nice to have all my future questions answered without me having to ask them! I just hope that the y-pipe comes off easy, I am thinking is should because supposedly the car had a clutch put in last year. I haven't seen any receipts though... Damn rust belt. headbang Good luck to us all.

 

[I'll_SHO_U]

I have a michigan car. I can't agree with that statement enough. I just broke off the nut and threads for one of the parking brake cables. Stupid rust.

 

[projectSHO89]

If you can, make sure you let the car sit overnight after removing the pan and the girdle. Put a piece of cardboard under the engine to catch all the oil drips.

Next day, replace the bearings with a lot less oil dripping on your face.

Steve

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

steve,

Ive heard of a few people doing that...
But I would never let an engine remain exposed to dust and debris overnight.

I always have visions of junk finding it's way into there. (mind you... I did mine in the driveway)

I MIGHT consider doing that in a controlled environment... but never outside.

 

[ACV1081]

[bold] Exhaust flex pipe gasket (NAPA). [/bold]
Went to get everything ordered today and struck out on this one... anyone know what the part number is for the 3.2 ATX flex pipe gasket? Also, where to get it?
Bearings will be in 5-7 days, pan gaskets tomm. and I'll be making my own pickup tube gasket. Good thing I've got a lift arranged and a good mechanic buddy to help... should make the bearing change, the rack and tie rod swap, motor mount swap, ball joint replacement, and tranny flush a filter a bit more doable. Whew, I'm exhausted just typing about it doh

 

[pjtoledo]

sdpatt:
In addition to the oil pan fitment is the removal of the rust-belted Y-pipe nuts. If you have had the Y-pipe off recently then that may not be a concern, but the deep 15mm socket and PB Blaster or equivalent are required items.
..........

Up here in the rust belt it's best to skip the PB blaster and go straight to a torch. Get those nuts good and hot, if you can, pull the studs out and replace them.


Perry

 

[yamahaSHO]

NotSoSlowSHO:
your list looks accurate, but Im going to be lazy and not check it.

I wil answer this though:

ACV1081:
I replaced them when building my 3.2 for the 91, but how much more work/risk will it be to do this with the motor in the car?

The only difference between changing them on a stand, and in the car is the difficulty removing and installing the oil pan.

I managed to (as well as many, many others have) change the rod bearings with the car on jack stands (or ramps), lying on our backs, with oil drippin' on your face

But back to the pan. The pan can be very tough to remove. The motor mounts like to get in the way. Then you must apply RTV and try to get it installed without sliming everything with the fresh RTV (and screwing up your nice bead of rtv)??

well, it can be tough. But not impossible by any means. And by no means would I consider pulling the motor just for rod bearings. thumb

He was talking about the main bearings...

It is much more difficult when the motor is in the car....

 

[WakaShoMan]

NotSoSlowSHO:
steve,

Ive heard of a few people doing that...
But I would never let an engine remain exposed to dust and debris overnight.

I always have visions of junk finding it's way into there. (mind you... I did mine in the driveway)

I MIGHT consider doing that in a controlled environment... but never outside.

OK here is my dumb question.

If somebody (like me) has two cars, why not put the SHO up on the jackstands (or ramp) and let it sit there for a few days BEFORE taking off the pan? shrug

Shouldn't that minimize the drip factor? I do not see the need to take the pan off, and THEN let it sit for a long while to let the engine "drip out". I agree with prior posts that doing that is an invitation for grit and trouble.

 

[luigisho]

If you are in a controlled environment I wouldn't overly worry too much about letting it sit exposed. If you want to let it drip out while you attend to the other stuff, drop the pan and get a plastic garbage bag and some duct tape to catch the drips while not exposing the internals.

Rockledge makes a good point. I wouldn't plastigage the whole thing unless alot of wear is visible on the old bearings. If you do it at all, use it on the rod that showed the most wear.

Get an extra tube of rtv for sealing the oilpan.

Extra manifold studs? You could get a set from a Ford dealer like the discount online persons or Josh. Or you could likely find some in the local automotive parts store. Or from ARP. Don't forget the anti-seize compound when you install them. Have a torch on hand to remove them.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

ACV1081:
[bold] Exhaust flex pipe gasket (NAPA). [/bold]
Went to get everything ordered today and struck out on this one... anyone know what the part number is for the 3.2 ATX flex pipe gasket? Also, where to get it?
Bearings will be in 5-7 days, pan gaskets tomm. and I'll be making my own pickup tube gasket. Good thing I've got a lift arranged and a good mechanic buddy to help... should make the bearing change, the rack and tie rod swap, motor mount swap, ball joint replacement, and tranny flush a filter a bit more doable. Whew, I'm exhausted just typing about it doh

F3DZ-5E241-A $5.80 at Ford.

 

[ACV1081]

QUOTE]F3DZ-5E241-A $5.80 at Ford. [/QB][/QUOTE]
Awesome thumb Thanks much. wink