Real Quick Oil Question

[frosho]

Been searching for info on heavier weight oils. I've been running 5w-30 and want to go to 10w-40 or 10w-40. I read about a lot of people using both. Only thing is, I didn't find a single 10w-40 at the store that had the "For Gasoline Engines" seal on it. The 10w-30's did, but not the 40's. Will I be OK picking up some High Mileage 10w-40 w/o that seal on it?

That's all. :thankyou:

 

[sho_ted]

you mean the stat burst seal? its only on energy conserving oils. 10w40 is not one.

 

[hawkeye18]

Why would you want to run 10-40? Running an oil that thick in an engine with tolerances as tight as they are will only cause problems.

Also, 10-40 is getting into diesel range. Most cars neither need nor want an oil that thick. That's why it's hard to find a "for gas cars" seal on an oil that thick.

 

[frosho]

Lately, with the warm weather, the oil light of death has flickered on occasion. Didn't do this over the winter. It's not something new either, I've seen it past summers. I know, I should do the rod bearings, but IDK how much longer I'll have the car on the road and it needs an oil change anyway. I just want to try a heavier oil for now to see if it takes care of the light, and maybe change the pressure sender. Guess I'll go for some 10w-30. Thanks for the replies.

 

[AREA 91]

Lately, with the warm weather, the oil light of death has flickered on occasion. Didn't do this over the winter. It's not something new either, I've seen it past summers. I know, I should do the rod bearings, but IDK how much longer I'll have the car on the road and it needs an oil change anyway. I just want to try a heavier oil for now to see if it takes care of the light, and maybe change the pressure sender. Guess I'll go for some 10w-30. Thanks for the replies.

Remember the second number for the oil viscosity is for the oil at operating temp. This means a 5w-30 or a 10w-30 will have the same "thickness" when warm, 30 weight. This won't help you're hot oil light flicker. Spend the $100 and do the rod bearings. The next owner will appreciate it as well.

 

[Racer X]

Lately, with the warm weather, the oil light of death has flickered on occasion. Didn't do this over the winter. It's not something new either, I've seen it past summers. I know, I should do the rod bearings, but IDK how much longer I'll have the car on the road and it needs an oil change anyway. I just want to try a heavier oil for now to see if it takes care of the light, and maybe change the pressure sender. Guess I'll go for some 10w-30. Thanks for the replies.

So, to recap... your rod bearings are worn, and on their way to failure, and your plan is to throw in a heavier oil?

I call dibs on the MTX-IV, ABS HCU and the window sills when the part out begins.

 

[frosho]

So, to recap... your rod bearings are worn, and on their way to failure, and your plan is to throw in a heavier oil?

I call dibs on the MTX-IV, ABS HCU and the window sills when the part out begins.

That was the plan, which was formulated with the advice of my dad. I guess we were mistaken. If he wants to pony up the cash for bearings, I will gladly change them. I myself can't afford it right now.

PS- This MTX-IV already needs a rebuild, and my window sills are in fair condition at best.

 

[93rev2sev]

A 15 year old engine with over 100,000 miles on it does not have the same tolerances as a new engine. No way...no how.

10W40 will be fine...It will raise your pressure and you will not see the light as often.

I've been running 10W40 for at least 60,000 miles....since about 110,000. My car burns significantly less oil when I run 10W40.

Also...I did the rod bearings 20,000 ago and STILL use 10W40.

Call me crazy..

 

[frosho]

So, I don't have to look for the "For Gasoline Engines" seal then? What brand 10w-40 are you using?

I knew some people were using it.

 

[rubydist]

Why would you want to run 10-40? Running an oil that thick in an engine with tolerances as tight as they are will only cause problems.

Also, 10-40 is getting into diesel range. Most cars neither need nor want an oil that thick. That's why it's hard to find a "for gas cars" seal on an oil that thick.

The SHO motor is not a 'tight' tolerance engine. Rather, it is a 'loose' engine - high flow, low pressure compared to most automotive engines. Running 40 weight oil in an older one would not pose a problem, and has the potential to significantly extend the life of the bearings.

 

[SASHO91]

Running 10w-40 for MANY MANY MANY miles.... The only oil I run in my SHO. But then again, I'm in Texas.

 

[itwonder]

I recommend going to 10W-30 Synthetic motor oil until you can get the rod bearings done.

 

[pjtoledo]

so there's no "S" in the ratings on that 10-40 oil????? like SJ, SL, or whatever the latest is?

 

[sho_ted]

most 10w 40 is now SM rated

 

[frosho]

SASHO, what brand do you get

I thnik I'm gonna go with the 10w-40 for now and make sure my driving habits are favoralbe to prolonging the life of my bearings. Hopefuly by the next oil change, or earleir, I'll have enough doh to do em.

93rev2sev and SASHO91, you're both well establihsed members who are running 10w-40. I've been and trust your choices in what brand to use, so whoever tells me what you buy first gets a "Thanks" and that's what I'm going with lol. If you both reply by tomorrow mornig when I get it, you both get a :thankyou: and I'm buying the cheaper of the two.

Cheers to Trashed Tuesdays!

Peace

 

[SASHO91]

Formual Shell 10w-40
Here's a quick link.... http://www.walgreens.com/store/prod...jump&navCount=1&skuid=sku889676&id=prod889688

 

[pjtoledo]

most 10w 40 is now SM rated

what I was getting at is the "S" part of SM means Spark ignition, ie GASOLINE ENGINE
so any oil that has a S_ rating is intended for gas engines.

can anybody guess what the "C" as in CF (an old rating) means???

 

[rubydist]

Compression ignition - i.e. diesel.

 

[93MTXSHO_STUD]

I also have the oil light flicker at around 700RPM's , though I did my rod bearings about a year ago. I think I'm going to use 10W-40 or 20W-50. I live in Houston and its getting summer time so i dont think its a bad idea.

 

[frosho]

Hmm, last night I wrote up a reply to you SASHO, And I could've sworn I hit the post button. Wierd.

Anyway, I had the car down for the driver's side inner tie rod end yesterday. So I went out and got some Mobil 1 10w-40, a Motorcraft filter instead of the craptastic Fram Tough Gaurd's my Dad buys, and a new pressure switch. Probably needs an alignment, and the transmission is pretty loud since yesterday I took out most of the soundproofing material I could get to without pulling the dash, but it handles pretty well now that I've finished replacing all the ends.