Let's Talk About Oil!!!!!!!!

[SHOmont]

"My are" mind? And now we are discussing ATF?

Why ATF? Another feather in the Amsoil hat, they have a full product breadth.

 

[Zpak]

Ryan Selcer

 

[luigisho]

Ryan Selcer

 

[rubydist]

You guys are hilarious with this. "its not my opinion", "yes it is your opinion" You ask 10 guys about oil and you get 10 different opinions.

I use Mobil1 almost exclusively. Is it the best? Not according to the data I see, but it is very good and readily available and reasonably priced for synthetic oil. If I lived a bit further south, I would use Walmart synthetic, because it is very good also and less expensive, but it gets a little thick in the winter here in my part of the world. As I said earlier, I have done lots of uoa with Blackstone, and I can run Mobil1 10k miles in my applications with no issues, so that is what I use.

Amzoil makes good oil too, but its too expensive for my needs.

If I was into racing or really hard use, I would likely use the Castrol that gets the top marks (not all Castrol does), but it is hard to find and more expensive.

 

[skyshadow07]

for those of you who put your ecoboosts thru the wringer, you can run 10w30 and fight many issues at the same time. there is practically no difference between 5w and 10w unless you live in the tundra. but 5w IS a good catchall where the manufacturer is concerned.

as far as fuel, using a no additive fuel for your ecoboost will actually help provide better injector life/performance ... as long as the fuel is known good. the additives in fuel actually end up gumming up the injectors because they are not designed for the high pressures of gdi.

To further support the 10W suggestion, Engine Masters just showed that heavier weight oil will seal the rings better resulting in more power.

 

[Zpak]

To further support the 10W suggestion, Engine Masters just showed that heavier weight oil will seal the rings better resulting in more power.

I could be wrong but it has been my understanding that the 5W was settled on by Ford in interest of gas milage.

 

[SM105K]

You guys are hilarious with this. "its not my opinion", "yes it is your opinion" You ask 10 guys about oil and you get 10 different opinions.

I use Mobil1 almost exclusively. Is it the best? Not according to the data I see, but it is very good and readily available and reasonably priced for synthetic oil. If I lived a bit further south, I would use Walmart synthetic, because it is very good also and less expensive, but it gets a little thick in the winter here in my part of the world. As I said earlier, I have done lots of uoa with Blackstone, and I can run Mobil1 10k miles in my applications with no issues, so that is what I use.

Amzoil makes good oil too, but its too expensive for my needs.

If I was into racing or really hard use, I would likely use the Castrol that gets the top marks (not all Castrol does), but it is hard to find and more expensive.

This is exactly what I was trying to say. M1 is good oil, and I have run it in most of my Turbo Port Injected LS Engines. However after doing my research, it isnt the right oil for my application of a Turbo Direct Injected Engine.

Do I like Amsoil? Yes. Do I think it is completely overpriced and in some cases a PITA to get? Yes. Will I use it in the future? Maybe. I am still seeing the calcium levels higher then I personally like for my application.

 

[J persons]

I use Red Line gear oils for the PTU and rear diff, their motor oil is too expensive to use on a daily driver. I used Motrorcraft 5w30 synth blend until I recently switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. It's a full synth but at a comparable price as the Motorcraft synth blend.

 

[SM105K]

I use Red Line gear oils for the PTU and rear diff, their motor oil is too expensive to use on a daily driver. I used Motrorcraft 5w30 synth blend until I recently switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. It's a full synth but at a comparable price as the Motorcraft synth blend.

Yep, I am leaning towards the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as well in 0W-40. The more I watch and read about it, the more I like it.

 

[802SHO]

This thread seems all over the place lol but that’s great. My daily driver is a 22 Tundra with the 3.4 (arguably 3.5) V6 twin turbo non hybrid with 23,321 miles. Engine is on recall from excessive metal shavings possibly not being cleared from machining during production. No clear remedy and as long as it’s good, no action being taken. Some think of it like Russian Roulette….could blow up today, next week, next month, next year…nobody knows, it’s a roll of the dice every day. Want to go on a trip? Want to do a long distance tow? Could find yourself on the side of the road, shit out of luck.

Ow20 recommended and 10k mile interval, if bought new and trying to change oil below 10k you’ll be denied by the dealer that oil change bc it’s “out of the service interval” unless you want to pay out of pocket. Recipe for disaster….not only that but 10k mile interval on a turbo engine? Bad idea…how many turbos fail from lack of a regular oil change 3-5k interval? Countless. Completely asinine recommendation by the dealer….compound that with excessive metal shavings and …BOOM!! Although, excessive metal shavings is a complete ******** explanation. You’d have issues right away….not 20-45k miles later. Funny thing is, it’s usually main bearing failure….hilarious that those metal shavings always target the main bearings, nothing else! I read this somewhere…..engine technology is better than ever…but oil technology hasn’t change much in the last 20 years….10k oil change interval is an absolute trash recommendation.

So I bought my truck used with 15k miles. Dealership supposedly changed the oil, I had it changed right away when I took it in for an alignment after installing a leveling kit. Then I changed it myself at 20k. For my first change I just used Mobil 1 0w20 and WIX filter. So to be proactive and not sit around wondering I just changed the oil again at 23,321. Took a sample to send to BlackStone Laboratories, around 3,280 miles on the sample. Can’t wait to get the results back to find out with no question of certainty that it’s got excessive wear or not. Hopefully it doesnt. This time I thought of all the times @SM105K talked about Castrol Edge and I used their 0w20 and another WIX filter.

If it’s got excessive wear I’ll probably list it for sale….not sure bc I can’t wait months for a repair, I’ve got a drywall business I need the truck for and a dump trailer to tow. No way in **** I’ll get a truck rental that they’ll let me tow with. I also bought tuning software and tuning device back in February I haven’t been able to even use yet due to waiting for a direct access cable to the ECU….could be a blessing in disguise if it’s about to die bc if they found it was tuned…excuses, excuses to not warranty. Wish me luck

 

[SHOdded]

i thought metal shavings were Kia's excuse. maybe there's some cross-pollination going on there ...

Hyundai-Kia’s Billion Dollar Engine Problem that Broke the NHTSA Civil Penalty Barrier - Safety Research & Strategies, Inc.

A federal judge in California has put one class-action lawsuit in peril and approved a settlement in another alleging defects in Hyundai and Kia engines. The Korean automaker’s billion-dollar-plus legal liability is on top of the largest civil penalty the National Highway Traffic Safety...

www.safetyresearch.net

 

[TTSHO]

Metal chips not being cleared from manufacturing process... sounds like yota decided to blame manufacturing practices rather than their prestigious engineering design and clearance tolerances. Considering engine parts all get sent to some form of coating after finish machining... left over metal shavings from manufacturing is highly unlikely.

 

[kryptto]

@SM105K check out this thread that @Deezuz has with his Blackstone oil reports and how the Amazon 5/30 synthetic did:

New to me 15 SHO, what to do!

Finally. 401A, 2015, 108k. Looks like the 3rd owner but Holy shit it does not seem like it. The car is absolutely flawless. It does appear to have a rear oil leak which I think is the valve cover. There is new RTV on the front VC, and newer on the front cover. So I think chains have been done...

shoforum.com

 

[SM105K]

@SM105K check out this thread that @Deezuz has with his Blackstone oil reports and how the Amazon 5/30 synthetic did:

New to me 15 SHO, what to do!

Finally. 401A, 2015, 108k. Looks like the 3rd owner but Holy shit it does not seem like it. The car is absolutely flawless. It does appear to have a rear oil leak which I think is the valve cover. There is new RTV on the front VC, and newer on the front cover. So I think chains have been done...

shoforum.com

That oil looks pretty decent. It is manufactured by Warren Oil Company. They make the Supertech Oil in Walmart.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/here-it-is-folks-amazon-basics-full-synthetic-oil.294122/

 

[SM105K]

Also, I have figured out which oil I am going to run in the AMG and the ST right now. I am switching over to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W/40. Couple of reasons why, first being the the lower Calcium levels and a good wear additive package.

A good video of why I decided that^

Plus it seems quite a few Amsoil guys in the comments jumped ship over to Pennzoil because it is almost as good and way cheaper.

 

[kryptto]

Also, I have figured out which oil I am going to run in the AMG and the ST right now. I am switching over to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W/40. Couple of reasons why, first being the the lower Calcium levels and a good wear additive package.

A good video of why I decided that^

Plus it seems quite a few Amsoil guys in the comments jumped ship over to Pennzoil because it is almost as good and way cheaper.

he has Penzoil in many of his videos as well:

 

[Deezuz]

Amazon 0w20 in my 172k mile highlander.

They say try 9k next time.

 

[SHOdded]

good numbers but we need comparisons for forced induction engines. even on honda toyota and subaru sites they either make the oci smaller or move up to a heavier oil or both.

 

[SM105K]

good numbers but we need comparisons for forced induction engines. even on honda toyota and subaru sites they either make the oci smaller or move up to a heavier oil or both.

I agree. NA motor oil does not get abused as much as a FI motor oil does. Things like temp, fuel dilution, and oil shearing are exponentially increased in FI motors. Glad to see that oil is working great in that Highlander though.

I still have about another 1500 miles of the Castrol Edge in my ST before I have to change it. I think it is sitting at 188K on the clock right now. Going to send that sample to Speed and see what it says. Then I am going to do a 200 mile flush with PUP 0W/40, then refill again with the same. Going to drive that 3k and send it in and see the difference between the two oils. Should be interesting.

 

[SHOdded]

honestly since you live in az, i wouldnt even bother with 0w oil 5w if oem specs 0w. you know they spec what they spec for emissions not longevity. longevity is not how they make money.

eagerly looking forward to the report.