Possible turbo failure..

[marshallma0504]

Dirt in the clean air system - dirty filter, someone left debris in the system. Filter not sized correctly or allowing debris passby. Intake system leaks. Bottom line inspection to find root cause will be the only way to guarantee it won't happen again.

Well I started it up and it’s running like normal at least at idle. Yellow wrench went away after I left the battery unhooked all night. Still going to clean all the sensors though and the throttle body to be safe. A $8 can of cleaner is way better than $100 in MAP sensors. Got it up on the ramps no problems (actually felt like it had boost pressure) so now I can inspect the rear turbo. Honestly I’m hoping the front failed again with the seals hence the whistling noise so I can just get a warranty on it. But if the rear is toast then I have a fun journey ahead of me for sure. Sucks if it is the rear cuz that means my car eats a turbo every 50k miles minimum. I will be re cleaning the intake tract and does anyone know how to deep clean the IC with it still in the car? I know it’s a total pain to remove but I will if I have to so I can make sure I don’t shred anymore blades.

 

[marshallma0504]

Dirt in the clean air system - dirty filter, someone left debris in the system. Filter not sized correctly or allowing debris passby. Intake system leaks. Bottom line inspection to find root cause will be the only way to guarantee it won't happen again.

If I do the VTA mod on the BOV’s, would that be a decent way to test for boost pressure? I just don’t have a code reader and don’t get paid until a week from now. Don’t wanna damage anything of course and I’ll only resort to this if I don’t see any blown seals or broken turbo shaft on the rear.

 

[kryptto]

Well I started it up and it’s running like normal at least at idle. Yellow wrench went away after I left the battery unhooked all night. Still going to clean all the sensors though and the throttle body to be safe. A $8 can of cleaner is way better than $100 in MAP sensors. Got it up on the ramps no problems (actually felt like it had boost pressure) so now I can inspect the rear turbo. Honestly I’m hoping the front failed again with the seals hence the whistling noise so I can just get a warranty on it. But if the rear is toast then I have a fun journey ahead of me for sure. Sucks if it is the rear cuz that means my car eats a turbo every 50k miles minimum. I will be re cleaning the intake tract and does anyone know how to deep clean the IC with it still in the car? I know it’s a total pain to remove but I will if I have to so I can make sure I don’t shred anymore blades.

I had posted a how to - but the IC cleaning is out there in many places. get a good pump, an endoscope would be good to have to get an idea how bad it is. Jack the driver side up, remove the CAC pipe to the top of the IC near front of engine, send down scope - then send down pump. suck out the crap.

 

[marshallma0504]

I had posted a how to - but the IC cleaning is out there in many places. get a good pump, an endoscope would be good to have to get an idea how bad it is. Jack the driver side up, remove the CAC pipe to the top of the IC near front of engine, send down scope - then send down pump. suck out the crap.

Yeah I know about that method but I was wondering if there was a way to get it cleaner without flushing it out of the vehicle. Because I may have metal pieces in mine (possibly the turbo retaining nut) that probably won’t flow to the passenger side with the fluid buildup but hey who knows. I’ll try that trick today with my suction gun after I do the dipstick test to see how much I actually have in there. If my turbos look good I’m gonna have to call my mechanic to run the codes to maybe pinpoint where the lack of boost is originating from. It’s all a guessing game without codes right now.

 

[kryptto]

Yeah I know about that method but I was wondering if there was a way to get it cleaner without flushing it out of the vehicle. Because I may have metal pieces in mine (possibly the turbo retaining nut) that probably won’t flow to the passenger side with the fluid buildup but hey who knows. I’ll try that trick today with my suction gun after I do the dipstick test to see how much I actually have in there. If my turbos look good I’m gonna have to call my mechanic to run the codes to maybe pinpoint where the lack of boost is originating from. It’s all a guessing game without codes right now.

ripping it out using simple green - clean her out and put her back in. look for leaking seams... have fun - might as well replace the cooler with a GH one if that was a viable option. endoscope for your cell phone would be very helpful

 

[marshallma0504]

ripping it out using simple green - clean her out and put her back in. look for leaking seams... have fun - might as well replace the cooler with a GH one if that was a viable option. endoscope for your cell phone would be very helpful

Just found a good rated endoscope on Amazon, gonna give it a shot. Hey maybe I could even snake through the oil cap to check the slack on the timing chains lol wouldn’t that be great

 

[kryptto]

Just found a good rated endoscope on Amazon, gonna give it a shot. Hey maybe I could even snake through the oil cap to check the slack on the timing chains lol wouldn’t that be great

I use mine to go thru the map sensor on the intake to watch carbon build up.... much more likely to be purposeful

 

[marshallma0504]

I use mine to go thru the map sensor on the intake to watch carbon build up.... much more likely to be purposeful

Will also be going that route for sure.

 

[yaycandy]

SHO's to their owners


View attachment 93576

Jokes on the SHO, she can’t break me but I massively broke her 4 times…so far

 

[marshallma0504]

Here’s more carnage for you all, front turbo dumped oil everywhere and doesn’t spin freely anymore, and rear turbo has a ton of shaft play and chewed its own blades up. So now I’m going to be doing 2 turbos. I’m going to buy a new rear, and warranty the front one since it’s not even 5k miles and the seals blew. First picture is the front remanufactured OEM one again, second is all the oil it dumped, third is the rear OEM replacement turbo. The rear didn’t dump that much oil but it’s bad. Very bad. And my boost control solenoid had a crack in it so I’m buying a new one of those too!

 

[kryptto]

Yay more fun....

 

[marshallma0504]

Does anyone have a link to the axle seal replacement kit for our cars? Since the axle needs to come out to do the rear turbo since I can’t drop the subframe the seals should probably be replaced.

 

[marshallma0504]

Well “new” front turbo is out, and the oil return line came with it since it rusted through. Gonna be sending it back on Monday and Rockauto is sending a replacement. Rear turbo is going to be ordered tonight with the axle seal kit and axle nut.

 

[FrankK]

Did that return line come with the rebuilt turbo?

 

[marshallma0504]

Did that return line come with the rebuilt turbo?

Nope that was the old one I reused it and now the bolts for seized to it so I bought a new return line.

 

[marshallma0504]

Rear turbo is out after a ton of fighting, shaft snapped just like the original front one. Thankfully that passenger axle was replaced shortly before I bought the vehicle so no need to replace it, but I did buy the new seal kit to make sure the PTU and trans fluids stay separate. Now let’s just hope the harbor freight jack stands hold up lol

 

[BradM]

Rear turbo is out after a ton of fighting, shaft snapped just like the original front one. Thankfully that passenger axle was replaced shortly before I bought the vehicle so no need to replace it, but I did buy the new seal kit to make sure the PTU and trans fluids stay separate. Now let’s just hope the harbor freight jack stands hold up lol

Just now seeing this but you don't need to drop the axle to get out the rear turbo. K-member stays where it is too.

 

[marshallma0504]

Just now seeing this but you don't need to drop the axle to get out the rear turbo. K-member stays where it is too.

I barely got it out with the axle removed so I’m glad I did it tbh. The seals needed done anyways I saw a drip of bright red fluid on the white plastic ring. Just changed the ptu fluid last month though and no mixing.

 

[marshallma0504]

Well both turbos have arrived. The front is going in tomorrow, the rear has to wait until the new feed line arrives. Does anyone have tips for getting coolant to the turbos on the first start? I’m also doing the timing chains so I drained all the coolant out and I don’t want to overheat the turbos. Will coolant flow to them before the thermostat opens? I assume so but I just want to ask how to get all the air out of the system the fastest. I am also converting to the motor craft yellow coolant so should I purchase a flush chemical and flush it first? With a new water pump I don’t want to re use the orange stuff since that’s what causes the pumps to fail in the first place. Also I have a small level of coolant that won’t leave the overflow tank. Is this by design since the thermostat is closed? Should I just disconnect the coolant hose and drain it out of the reservoir? This is my first time doing a coolant change on any vehicle so any help would be appreciated. I want to do it by the book so to speak to make sure the new yellow coolant can work it’s best.

 

[BradM]

I wouldn't worry about overheating turbos w/o coolant on start-up. As long as they get oil (foot-to-floor flood clear on start-up to build oil pressure). Vacuum fill your cooling system (look on AMZ for kit). For the rear turbo, I unbolted the steering rack and pushed it back for more room. Draining the reservoir is good practice but I think the two OEM coolants are compatible. Flushing is optional as well IMHO and if you'd drained everything already, you'd have to refill the system to do the flush, then drain and refill.