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marshallma0504

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Just don't force anything. Be patient.
Yeah I’m trying my best to be. Valve covers were very sticky and the front cover comes off today finally. Also has anyone ever seen a motor mount do this? I had the floor jack under the engine and unbolted everything and it came out like this. Maybe this is that loud clunk I would hear over bumps. Definitely not safe to put it back in so time for another $100 and waiting some more on a new one. This car was in a bad enough wreck to total it years ago so maybe it cracked then. First pic is what it’s supposed to look like, second is what happened to mine.
 

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kryptto

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Yeah I’m trying my best to be. Valve covers were very sticky and the front cover comes off today finally. Also has anyone ever seen a motor mount do this? I had the floor jack under the engine and unbolted everything and it came out like this. Maybe this is that loud clunk I would hear over bumps. Definitely not safe to put it back in so time for another $100 and waiting some more on a new one. This car was in a bad enough wreck to total it years ago so maybe it cracked then. First pic is what it’s supposed to look like, second is what happened to mine.
sure it is, no personal experience however.... you found it.
 

marshallma0504

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Also had a weird scare that I think was related to my failing trans intermediate shaft seal. While taking out the motor mount bracket you have to let the jack down slightly to get a wrench on the lower bolt. When I did lower the engine (I had a stopper piece inside the jack to make sure I couldn’t go too low) I started hearing a slow dripping. I look under and there’s trans fluid coming out of the ptu where the pass side axle goes in. Probably a couple oz came out and then it stopped. I jacked the engine up and double checked the bell housing and everything else but no trans fluid leaks. I’m thinking putting the engine on a downward slope caused that fluid to leak out since as I posted a year ago, that seal was going out as I had red drips on the deflector. I am installing a new full seal kit for the axle and I bought the ford kit. Also checked the PTU fluid for mixing but there is none. Just a grayish purple that smells like gear oil. And the new vent tube is staying dry with no PTU leaks.
 

marshallma0504

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Apparently it’s arriving Saturday so maybe I can brave the colt and get it back together for its first start. Does anyone have any tips for bleeding air from the coolant? I know these cars have no radiator cap and instead we kind of just burp air out of the cap. I have heard of people on here saying to squeeze the upper radiator hose and the manual says to hold at 3500 rpm for 30 sec after the thermostat opens and repeat until all air is gone. But how do we know when that is?
 

kryptto

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Apparently it’s arriving Saturday so maybe I can brave the colt and get it back together for its first start. Does anyone have any tips for bleeding air from the coolant? I know these cars have no radiator cap and instead we kind of just burp air out of the cap. I have heard of people on here saying to squeeze the upper radiator hose and the manual says to hold at 3500 rpm for 30 sec after the thermostat opens and repeat until all air is gone. But how do we know when that is?
you can burp without a bottle or pressure system. First things first get the heat all the way up, then watch the fill bottle. Gently squeeze the hoses from both sides of the radiator. let it run for 10 mins and dont be afraid to slowly peddle up the speed, and add.

big things to remember, start jacked up slightly, and at level to get those bubbles to move.
 

marshallma0504

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you can burp without a bottle or pressure system. First things first get the heat all the way up, then watch the fill bottle. Gently squeeze the hoses from both sides of the radiator. let it run for 10 mins and dont be afraid to slowly peddle up the speed, and add.

big things to remember, start jacked up slightly, and at level to get those bubbles to move.
So jack it up so it’s level or jack up the drivers side slightly? Or start with the drivers side jacked up then return to level? I’m confused lol
 

kryptto

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So jack it up so it’s level or jack up the drivers side slightly? Or start with the drivers side jacked up then return to level? I’m confused lol
just jack it up at start and lower to flat after hot. Just make the air move in the block. gently squeeze those hoses to force air to move
 

marshallma0504

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New timing chain is on except the new tensioner, then I get to turn the engine over a few times to make sure it all lines up. Then it’s re assembly which might be faster than disassembly
 

Bronco2fan

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Take your time. I can't emphasize that enough. Too many times, things happen when you don't.
 

marshallma0504

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Take your time. I can't emphasize that enough. Too many times, things happen when you don't.
The timing is set and I pre oiled everything before hand turning it 4-5 times to make sure it rotates with no resistance. Now I’m finishing up scraping all the old RTV off to put the front cover on, new VCT solenoids, new guides, tensioners, everything. The hard part appears to be over, now I just need to pick up my new motor mount on Monday and I can start her up then.
 

marshallma0504

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Well the engine is back together now, valve covers on, intake on, now I’m just waiting on the stupid dealer to give me the CORRECT engine mount tomorrow so I can mount that, and mount the coolant reservoir, fill the coolant, hook up all the turbo air pipes to the CAC, and I’ll be good to go.
 

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