New turbo

[ShoTownsend]

If say car was owned by an older lady that never ran it hard would there still be carbon build up and say car wasn't ran hard would the turbo last longer. I have 2011 sho 124000 miles runs perfect driven by older lady. I know she never ran hard. Its never had anything but two batteries and a few sets of tires. What are signs of a dwindling turbo and when does the dreaded water pump failure happen and what should I look for. My car stays parked most of time drive probably 20 miles a week at the moment I'm trying to save it as I have an 05 dts daily driver.

 

[kryptto]

If say car was owned by an older lady that never ran it hard would there still be carbon build up and say car wasn't ran hard would the turbo last longer. I have 2011 sho 124000 miles runs perfect driven by older lady. I know she never ran hard. Its never had anything but two batteries and a few sets of tires. What are signs of a dwindling turbo and when does the dreaded water pump failure happen and what should I look for. My car stays parked most of time drive probably 20 miles a week at the moment I'm trying to save it as I have an 05 dts daily driver.

carbon buildup is a result of the design of GDI, that doesnt send fuel into the intake to clean the valves/intake ports. I believe Toyota and subsequently other manuf are using a stream of gas in the intake and a stream in the cylinder to fight carbon buildup. regardless, there is build up - I am 100% sure of it, little old lady or not.

If the engine runs, a water pump can fail starting at 85Kish miles +

Turbos, sure could take no beating and last longer without hard driving, however how frequent were those oil changes? she go 5000 - 7500 with local no highway driving? u dont know, so yes turbos can get old oil with no protective properties and start to go. you can drop the downpipes, not a project most will do unless replacing for high flow cats or no cats, that said when the turbine is visible - you can look for damage or more importantly any play in the turbine and the shaft it rides on.

 

[marshallma0504]

carbon buildup is a result of the design of GDI, that doesnt send fuel into the intake to clean the valves/intake ports. I believe Toyota and subsequently other manuf are using a stream of gas in the intake and a stream in the cylinder to fight carbon buildup. regardless, there is build up - I am 100% sure of it, little old lady or not.

If the engine runs, a water pump can fail starting at 85Kish miles +

Turbos, sure could take no beating and last longer without hard driving, however how frequent were those oil changes? she go 5000 - 7500 with local no highway driving? u dont know, so yes turbos can get old oil with no protective properties and start to go. you can drop the downpipes, not a project most will do unless replacing for high flow cats or no cats, that said when the turbine is visible - you can look for damage or more importantly any play in the turbine and the shaft it rides on.

Kryptto, before replacing the turbocharger do you think I should do the oil change or should I drain the oil pan when replacing the turbo as to not cause an oil leak from the feed line? I already know where to pinch the coolant lines with plastic clamps so I can avoid leaks there just wondering about that specific step. I like to make sure I have the best way to do a job before I start. The parts are arriving Thursday and I will be posting results here so anyone who blows a turbo or not can learn from my mistakes.

 

[kryptto]

Kryptto, before replacing the turbocharger do you think I should do the oil change or should I drain the oil pan when replacing the turbo as to not cause an oil leak from the feed line? I already know where to pinch the coolant lines with plastic clamps so I can avoid leaks there just wondering about that specific step. I like to make sure I have the best way to do a job before I start. The parts are arriving Thursday and I will be posting results here so anyone who blows a turbo or not can learn from my mistakes.

Do the drain while working on them to get out all the old oil. Clean or replace the inline turbo filters etc

 

[marshallma0504]

Do the drain while working on them to get out all the old oil. Clean or replace the inline turbo filters etc

Ok that’s the plan is to do the filters. Is there only the one on the turbo side or is there a second on the block side? (For the feed line I know there’s none on the drain.) I asked IrishPride but he has to check the repair manual and get back with me on it

 

[Texas Marauder]

The only filter is located in the banjo fitting at the turbo.

Green in the picture.

 

[marshallma0504]

The only filter is located in the banjo fitting at the turbo.

Green in the picture.
View attachment 92931

Ok thanks so much

 

[marshallma0504]

Started the procedure today, I have the old front turbo out and the shaft snapped in two. The turbo oil filter looks decent but I’m replacing it anyways obviously. I’m going to put the new turbo on and fill it up with clean oil and start putting everything back together. Wish me luck all, I’m going to have my mechanic with me for the first start to look for problems with anything and to clear the codes that happened due to the turbo failure.

 

[marshallma0504]

Started the procedure today, I have the old front turbo out and the shaft snapped in two. The turbo oil filter looks decent but I’m replacing it anyways obviously. I’m going to put the new turbo on and fill it up with clean oil and start putting everything back together. Wish me luck all, I’m going to have my mechanic with me for the first start to look for problems with anything and to clear the codes that happened due to the turbo failure.

She is back running smoothly again! Still have the P0016 from the timing chains so I’m gonna take it easy on the engine until I can get the rest of the parts in. All other codes are gone and stayed gone and no more smoking from the exhaust. While I was under there I also changed the PTU fluid which was not easy being in Michigan in January but I managed. She definitely feels strong though when I get into the pedal slightly (about half throttle total) with no misfiring or leaks. I do have one question, my coolant tank says to use motor craft orange but I bought the yellow by mistake. Can I mix the two or should I drain the system and do all yellow? Or is yellow the wrong coolant for the car entirely? (Yes with the timing chains I am also doing the water pump.)

 

[Texas Marauder]

Yes, you can mix Motorcraft orange and Motorcraft yellow coolant. Note that there is also a Motorcraft gold which is the wrong coolant for these cars. The orange was discontinued for the yellow several years ago. Other manufacturers still make a Ford orange coolant. The orange is basically Dexcool. Yellow is an improved coolant. IMO, stick with Motorcraft.

 

[marshallma0504]

She is back running smoothly again! Still have the P0016 from the timing chains so I’m gonna take it easy on the engine until I can get the rest of the parts in. All other codes are gone and stayed gone and no more smoking from the exhaust. While I was under there I also changed the PTU fluid which was not easy being in Michigan in January but I managed. She definitely feels strong though when I get into the pedal with no misfiring or leaks. I do have one question, my coolant tank says to use motor craft orange but I bought the yellow by mistake. Can I mix the two or should I drain the system and do all yellow? Or is yellow the wrong coolant for the car entirely? (Yes with the timing chains I am also doing the water pump.)

Yes, you can mix Motorcraft orange and Motorcraft yellow coolant. Note that there is also a Motorcraft gold which is the wrong coolant for these cars. The orange was discontinued for the yellow several years ago. Other manufacturers still make a Ford orange coolant. The orange is basically Dexcool. Yellow is an improved coolant. IMO, stick with Motorcraft.

I have a bottle of motorcraft yellow concentrate coolant which is why I asked if I could mix them. Attached is a picture of what I bought. I’ll mix a bit of it with distilled water and add it tomorrow

 

[marshallma0504]

No issues with the car so far, just that it’s not happy with this cold weather. Starts up on the first try but has a lot of phaser rattle. I’m definitely on borrowed time on the timing components after 134,000 miles. Once the car is up to temp there’s no issues with noises misfires or hesitation. Car runs smooth as silk just with a stuck P0016 code that I will address once I get the rest of the parts and the weather will cooperate. I’m also thinking the VCT solenoids could be plugged after this long which is exasperating the issue at cold starts. Not sure yet, just taking it easy on the car until spring and trying not to drive it too much.

 

[marshallma0504]

No issues with the car so far, just that it’s not happy with this cold weather. Starts up on the first try but has a lot of phaser rattle. I’m definitely on borrowed time on the timing components after 134,000 miles. Once the car is up to temp there’s no issues with noises misfires or hesitation. Car runs smooth as silk just with a stuck P0016 code that I will address once I get the rest of the parts and the weather will cooperate. I’m also thinking the VCT solenoids could be plugged after this long which is exasperating the issue at cold starts. Not sure yet, just taking it easy on the car until spring and trying not to drive it too much.

Oh, and the heated seats only light up 2 of the 3 bars when turned on and the module is not engaging. No click from under the pass seat and no burned wires (I checked because of the known TSB on the melting common wire) so I’m going to update sync tonight with a usb and see what happens. There was no BCM codes or misreporting modules when my mechanic cleared the codes after I replaced the turbo with his guidance.

 

[marshallma0504]

Oh, and the heated seats only light up 2 of the 3 bars when turned on and the module is not engaging. No click from under the pass seat and no burned wires (I checked because of the known TSB on the melting common wire) so I’m going to update sync tonight with a usb and see what happens. There was no BCM codes or misreporting modules when my mechanic cleared the codes after I replaced the turbo with his guidance.

Has anyone else on here had issues with the heated seats just not turning on? The screen responds normally to the button presses but nothing from the seats. No fan noise, no click signifying activation of the plate or anything. Just strange is all

 

[2014RedBull]

So you’re saying a piece of carbon hit the exhaust impeller and damaged it causing the turbo bearing to fail? Sounds plausible just want to make sure I’m thinking of this in the right way

If I remember correctly from years ago. Carbon can make Diamonds. Extreme pressure and heat. Imagine what is going on inside of that turbo?

 

[kryptto]

If I remember correctly from years ago. Carbon can make Diamonds. Extreme pressure and heat. Imagine what is going on inside of that turbo?

A better way to put it is any carbon that can get thru the combustion chamber can and will damage a turbine spinning +10k's rpms.

It is the great fear when carbon cleaning the intake, no matter if its chemical or mechanically cleaned.

And why meth clean the carbon up and preferable.

 

[marshallma0504]

A better way to put it is any carbon that can get thru the combustion chamber can and will damage a turbine spinning +10k's rpms.

It is the great fear when carbon cleaning the intake, no matter if its chemical or mechanically cleaned.

And why meth clean the carbon up and preferable.

Well Kryptto I now fear that you were right from the start. On my way to work today I started to hear a low pitched whistling sound whenever I was on the throttle. It started quiet and then became very loud and then stopped. After it stopped I now have zero boost just like when my front turbo failed. I couldn’t afford the rear turbo replacement then and I can barely afford it now but I’m going to inspect the car thoroughly after I baby it home and get it on the ramps to check all the charge pipes, BOV’s, and of course pull that dreaded clamp on the rear turbo to see if that turbo finally fully let go on me. If it’s the front that blew, at least I got a 6 month warranty from OE Turbopower as it’s a remanufactured OEM unit. I’m trying to stay optimistic and hopefully a charge pipe wiggled itself loose as I was going down a bumpy dirt road right before this all started and it was driving perfect. I’ll post updates here as I find them or start a new thread if that would be easier for everyone.