New turbo

[kryptto]

That video is for an F150 or Expedition. The oil filters on the FWD engine are completely different and the same front and rear.

My possible theory @marshallma0504 regardless, if I have ever taken my turbos off yet and know the sizes is irrelevant as a discussion point. I appreciate the attention to detail, what I would keep digging into is the idea I pose. We all have the same info and no car. I have never worked on my turbos, yet... To not mislead you, but check the turbos oil screen.

If you look at the housing of that video it doesn't look close to yours. To Brads idea I would keep following that.

 

[marshallma0504]

When it comes to the coolant and oil lines is it worth reusing any of them or should I buy all 4 lines new.. I think the coolant lines have crush washers on them to seal them to the turbo so if that’s the case I’m stuck buying those might as well do new oil lines supply and return.

 

[kryptto]

When it comes to the coolant and oil lines is it worth reusing any of them or should I buy all 4 lines new.. I think the coolant lines have crush washers on them to seal them to the turbo so if that’s the case I’m stuck buying those might as well do new oil lines supply and return.

You ask me, I am over cautious and replace all. It's who I am - bitten too many times over stupid stuff that make me do it twice.

 

[marshallma0504]

I just had a thought, it was raining hard, my gravel driveway has potholes that splash water, and I don’t have my undershield and haven’t had one since getting the car. Could the cold water on a hot turbo have caused it to fail? I never thought about it until now but I’ve been driving through puddles and splashing water on it for months now creating steam as I go up and down my driveway during and after rainstorms..

 

[kryptto]

Found my bookmark

Turbo Failure: 11 Reasons For A Bad Turbo And Why It Happens

Having trouble with your turbo? Here is a full list of reasons for turbo failure and symptoms of a bad turbocharger. This is a must read!

lifeonfour.co

 

[marshallma0504]

Found my bookmark

Turbo Failure: 11 Reasons For A Bad Turbo And Why It Happens

Having trouble with your turbo? Here is a full list of reasons for turbo failure and symptoms of a bad turbocharger. This is a must read!

lifeonfour.co

I did talk to Irish pride and he showed his buddies my turbo and they think it got starved of oil possibly.. not a good look for the rear turbo if I have contaminants blocking the filters in my oil. I’m inspecting the rear tonight and I’ll try to get some pictures if I can.

 

[kryptto]

I did talk to Irish pride and he showed his buddies my turbo and they think it got starved of oil possibly.. not a good look for the rear turbo if I have contaminants blocking the filters in my oil. I’m inspecting the rear tonight and I’ll try to get some pictures if I can.

SO I was possibly right - plz do

 

[marshallma0504]

SO I was possibly right - plz do

Yes as I assumed you were as you are one of the most knowledgeable people that has spoken to me on here so I’m gonna get started once I get off work here at 11

 

[marshallma0504]

Well, I tried my best but could not get the final elbow off that feeds into the intake turbine on the rear turbo however, I did get all of the other charge pipes off somehow oil got into the connection for the rear most blow off valve so I don’t know if that thing even works or not There was a lot of caked on oil on the rear turbos intake piping, however, on the outlet side of the turbo there was not very much oil at all. I’m attaching pictures below if anyone knows a good way to possibly rotate the silver clamp on that bottom piece that holds the Piping onto the intake turbine I would appreciate it. I’m thinking of just spraying it with some sort of silicone lubricant and using pliers to try and pull it as the bolt is inaccessible from the top or the bottom.

 

[kryptto]

Well, I tried my best but could not get the final elbow off that feeds into the intake turbine on the rear turbo however, I did get all of the other charge pipes off somehow oil got into the connection for the rear most blow off valve so I don’t know if that thing even works or not There was a lot of caked on oil on the rear turbos intake piping, however, on the outlet side of the turbo there was not very much oil at all. I’m attaching pictures below if anyone knows a good way to possibly rotate the silver clamp on that bottom piece that holds the Piping onto the intake turbine I would appreciate it. I’m thinking of just spraying it with some sort of silicone lubricant and using pliers to try and pull it as the bolt is inaccessible from the top or the bottom.

That's a lot of oil, however to be expected. My other advice, even with 28k when I pulled my intercooler, there was like 2-4 oz of oil in the stock IC. Get a pump down into the IC and suck out all the oil. Jack the driver side up, let collect for a bit, send the vacuum down the CAC pipe opening and get as much out as u can.

An endoscopy camera is also helpful.

 

[marshallma0504]

That's a lot of oil, however to be expected. My other advice, even with 28k when I pulled my intercooler, there was like 2-4 oz of oil in the stock IC. Get a pump down into the IC and suck out all the oil. Jack the driver side up, let collect for a bit, send the vacuum down the CAC pipe opening and get as much out as u can.

An endoscopy camera is also helpful.

What do you think about the rear bov? I hope it still functions even though it somehow got oil in the connector. Might have to buy a can of electrical cleaner.

 

[kryptto]

What do you think about the rear bov? I hope it still functions even though it somehow got oil in the connector. Might have to buy a can of electrical cleaner.

That is an item that throws a code if not working - clean it up, you can manually test it. I can't get to my alldata subscription however you can see it opem and close if jumped correctly.

 

[marshallma0504]

That is an item that throws a code if not working - clean it up, you can manually test it. I can't get to my alldata subscription however you can see it opem and close if jumped correctly.

I also took off the oil separator on the rear valve cover and I can’t remember if when you shake it a rattle means it’s still good or if it’s not supposed to rattle.

 

[kryptto]

I also took off the oil separator on the rear valve cover and I can’t remember if when you shake it a rattle means it’s still good or if it’s not supposed to rattle.

No idea about that possibly someone else knows.

 

[marshallma0504]

No idea about that possibly someone else knows.

Idk what that box does really I think it separates oil vapors from the combustion chamber and routes them somewhere else.

 

[kryptto]

Idk what that box does really I think it separates oil vapors from the combustion chamber and routes them somewhere else.

Yes, shaking it... Never heard that. If it collected oil it could be clogged and needs to be changed.

 

[marshallma0504]

Yes, shaking it... Never heard that. If it collected oil it could be clogged and needs to be changed.

On the topic of the oil and coolant lines I’m going to purchase new crush washers to prevent leaks when I put the new turbo on. I’m waiting to purchase anything though until I can get eyes on the rear turbo.. hoping for no chewed up blades.

 

[BradM]

My two cents. There is no need to replace the coolant, oil feed and oil drain lines. Just replace the crush washers and paper washer for the drain line. Clean the oil filters (screens) and reinstall. For the oil drain line on the front (bank 2) turbo, just rotate it out of the way (no need to remove it; same with the rear drain). The oil in the connector of the rear bypass valve indicates it's bad. Don't mess around, just replace it and check the other bypass valve. If my memory is correct, the hose clamps on the intake hoses are attached to the hoses themselves and cannot be rotated. If it were my car and I was going to keep it, I'd bite the bullet and do both turbos (cores or whole). They're due. Pro tip: buy the OEM crush washers because they are connected together and make installing waaaay easier.

 

[kryptto]

My two cents. There is no need to replace the coolant, oil feed and oil drain lines. Just replace the crush washers and paper washer for the drain line. Clean the oil filters (screens) and reinstall. For the oil drain line on the front (bank 2) turbo, just rotate it out of the way (no need to remove it; same with the rear drain). The oil in the connector of the rear bypass valve indicates it's bad. Don't mess around, just replace it and check the other bypass valve. If my memory is correct, the hose clamps on the intake hoses are attached to the hoses themselves and cannot be rotated. If it were my car and I was going to keep it, I'd bite the bullet and do both turbos (cores or whole). They're due. Pro tip: buy the OEM crush washers because they are connected together and make installing waaaay easier.

@marshallma0504 - Brad is the person i would go to for advice on this. I personally, though very expensive would change old hoses out, the metal oil lines keep - but Brad has the experience I will yield to everytime.

 

[marshallma0504]

I’m

My two cents. There is no need to replace the coolant, oil feed and oil drain lines. Just replace the crush washers and paper washer for the drain line. Clean the oil filters (screens) and reinstall. For the oil drain line on the front (bank 2) turbo, just rotate it out of the way (no need to remove it; same with the rear drain). The oil in the connector of the rear bypass valve indicates it's bad. Don't mess around, just replace it and check the other bypass valve. If my memory is correct, the hose clamps on the intake hoses are attached to the hoses themselves and cannot be rotated. If it were my car and I was going to keep it, I'd bite the bullet and do both turbos (cores or whole). They're due. Pro tip: buy the OEM crush washers because they are connected together and make installing waaaay easier.

yeah I have the brass OEM washer for the oil feed and the aluminum OEM ones for the coolant lines. Do you think the oil in the rear bypass contributed to not feeling any boost? It’s not torn and I can freely move it making me think all the boost from that rear charge line was just getting diverted back to the intake instead of making its way to the IC. Hopefully that means the rear turbo isn’t damaged but I’m going to try and either heat up the clamp and rotate it after spraying it down with some lubricant or just cut the clamp and use a new one.