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marshallma0504

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I’m

yeah I have the brass OEM washer for the oil feed and the aluminum OEM ones for the coolant lines. Do you think the oil in the rear bypass contributed to not feeling any boost? It’s not torn and I can freely move it making me think all the boost from that rear charge line was just getting diverted back to the intake instead of making its way to the IC. Hopefully that means the rear turbo isn’t damaged but I’m going to try and either heat up the clamp and rotate it after spraying it down with some lubricant or just cut the clamp and use a new one.
I’m

yeah I have the brass OEM washer for the oil feed and the aluminum OEM ones for the coolant lines. Do you think the oil in the rear bypass contributed to not feeling any boost? It’s not torn and I can freely move it making me think all the boost from that rear charge line was just getting diverted back to the intake instead of making its way to the IC. Hopefully that means the rear turbo isn’t damaged but I’m going to try and either heat up the clamp and rotate it after spraying it down with some lubricant or just cut the clamp and use a new one.
If I had the money to do both turbos right now I would but if I don’t see or feel any damage I’m gonna ride out the rear turbo as it was new at 88,000 miles and I’m at 133,000. Hopefully they used an OEM replacement I’ll look over the documents from the previous owner again.
 

kryptto

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yeah I have the brass OEM washer for the oil feed and the aluminum OEM ones for the coolant lines. Do you think the oil in the rear bypass contributed to not feeling any boost? It’s not torn and I can freely move it making me think all the boost from that rear charge line was just getting diverted back to the intake instead of making its way to the IC. Hopefully that means the rear turbo isn’t damaged but I’m going to try and either heat up the clamp and rotate it after spraying it down with some lubricant or just cut the clamp and use a new one.
check for fluid build up in the intercooler.
 

marshallma0504

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If I had the money to do both turbos right now I would but if I don’t see or feel any damage I’m gonna ride out the rear turbo as it was new at 88,000 miles and I’m at 133,000. Hopefully they used an OEM replacement I’ll look over the documents from the previous owner again.
Previous owner replaced rear turbo at 83,500 miles and it was $658 for the turbo itself in 2021. Could have been OEM but who knows. Clearly wasn’t a cheap one used at least maybe a rebuilt like I’m going to buy for the front
 

BradM

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By "oil separator" you mean the PCV valve? If so, then it should rattle. Just clean it with brake clean. You have no boost because your front turbo probably wasn't spinning very much given its condition. For the rear hose clamp, are you saying you can't loosen it because you can't reach the hose clamp nut?
 

kryptto

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By "oil separator" you mean the PCV valve? If so, then it should rattle.
that confused me also, the valve should rattle not that i know the oil separator it sits in. the separator should not be saturated and filled with oil.
 

marshallma0504

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By "oil separator" you mean the PCV valve? If so, then it should rattle. Just clean it with brake clean. You have no boost because your front turbo probably wasn't spinning very much given its condition. For the rear hose clamp, are you saying you can't loosen it because you can't reach the hose clamp nut?
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That bolt right there with the black arrow in the middle has been giving me h3ll and I’ve tried going at it from below, any ratchet is too long to fit since it’s snugged up against the PTU and I tried going over the PTU with a flex head socket adapter but I can’t get the socket on the bolt no matter what angle I go at it from. I’ve tried 7,8,9mm sockets and none of them work while the rest of the piping used 8mm.
 

BradM

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I wonder if when they replaced the rear turbo, they used a different hose clamp for some reason. Should be 8mm. Is it facing a different direction than in the image? The struggle bus sucks but don't destroy the intake hose (no heat!). And unless the clamp is loose, you won't be able to spin it to a different position.
 

marshallma0504

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I wonder if when they replaced the rear turbo, they used a different hose clamp for some reason. Should be 8mm. Is it facing a different direction than in the image? The struggle bus sucks but don't destroy the intake hose (no heat!). And unless the clamp is loose, you won't be able to spin it to a different position.
The first pic is where it started the second is where I got it to now. I do have a gap now between the piping and the turbo housing so maybe I can just pry it off with a screwdriver gently.. this sucks whoever put this clamp on did not think about the next guy that’s for sure
 

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BradM

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It has to be loose enough to fit over the lip that's on the turbo housing. You're dam close. The clamp won't come off the hose so you need to remove everything in one piece. A socket will fit over it but you have to hold down the flappy part of the hose clamp to get enough clearance.
 

marshallma0504

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The first pic is where it started the second is where I got it to now. I do have a gap now between the piping and the turbo housing so maybe I can just pry it off with a screwdriver gently.. this sucks whoever put this clamp on did not think about the next guy that’s for sure
I FINALLY got the clamp off. Here she is, no shaft play, blades look used but hopefully she’s still ok???

Edit: I asked my next-door certified Mechanic he’s never steered me wrong before and he thinks it should be OK. It just looks like the turbo might’ve ingested something at some point, but he said if it feels OK and there’s no plane in the shaft that it should be all right, but what’s everyone’s opinion?
 

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Bronco2fan

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I personally wouldn't risk it. They look pretty chewed up. Something got to it for sure. You went thru all the hassle to get it off, replace it.
 

BradM

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Something got ingested. It's just a matter of your intentions with the car...long term keep or sell soon. You will be down on performance with those damaged blades.
 

kryptto

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I FINALLY got the clamp off. Here she is, no shaft play, blades look used but hopefully she’s still ok???

Edit: I asked my next-door certified Mechanic he’s never steered me wrong before and he thinks it should be OK. It just looks like the turbo might’ve ingested something at some point, but he said if it feels OK and there’s no plane in the shaft that it should be all right, but what’s everyone’s opinion?
Replace.... Both turbos are trashed. That was why it was soooo important to get to it and off. Get an articulating endoscope in thru the intake map sensor hole and look for a valve that is damaged.
 

marshallma0504

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Replace.... Both turbos are trashed. That was why it was soooo important to get to it and off. Get an articulating endoscope in thru the intake map sensor hole and look for a valve that is damaged.
So you think the car did ingest metal that could have damaged the combustion chamber? That’s not what I was hoping to hear.. it was smoking out of the oil fill cap after I shut off the car once I got it back home. Maybe that’s a sign something bad happened to the engine.
 

BradM

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Something went through the turbos. Whatever was left went into the intercooler. Anything heavy is sitting in there and much of the lighter stuff got caught by the oil in the IC. Before you spend money on turbos, at least do a compression check to see if valves were damaged.
 

marshallma0504

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Can you get a better picture of the front turbo? I think @Jordan_R may be right about the nut unless the rear turbo is aftermarket.
I don’t think the nut escaped the front one but that’s the only pictures I have and they look the same in the center aside from all the oil on the blown one

I took a new picture from a different angle
 

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marshallma0504

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I don’t think the nut escaped the front one but that’s the only pictures I have and they look the same in the center aside from all the oil on the blown one

I took a new picture from a different angle
I see it now. The nut with the ridges on it is missing from the front turbo and it left behind a sheared off shiny surface while the rear turbo has a matte surface since it’s still intact. The nut is probably either in the IC or destroyed a valve… the engine ran fine though just underpowered other than the slow starting when the smoke happened unless that’s when the nut came loose so I’m not sure..
 

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