Oil/Filter Recommendations

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Joe_SHO

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oil companies use different additive packages to come up with 5w30 which are incompatible. the new oil removes the old deposits in oil seals, ring landings etc. and replaces it with the new concoction and can cause leaks. when i went to mobil1 0w30 i had a miss after 50 miles because of a leaking spark plug boot seal. it went away. it can take up to an entire oil change cycle for the "new" oil to replace the old. when synthetics first came out in 1979 they would cause leaks even on a new car but the molecule chains are longer now and blaming synthetics for leaks on a 14 year old plus car is an old wive's tale.

thanks for the intel. you think just give it time and it will fix itself?
 

gmorrell

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I run a WIX FL-1A-equivalent filter and Shell Rotella T SB 0w40. It is a part of the Synthetic Blend series, but specifically the 0w40 is full synthetic. It is a bonnefied API-SJ oil with correct levels of ZDDP.

Since running it, I have noted less valve chatter on start up.

http://www.shell.com/static//ca-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-15.pdf
Would you care to export some of that nice Canadian juice down to the United States? Pretty much everything US Shell Rotella T is now carrying an API SM rating, which means no ZDDP.
 

SolidState

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Sure. If the border doesn't have any objections to it.

The stuff just sits on the shelf at Canadian Tire collecting dust. Best of all, it is relatively cheap on sale at about $27 for a 4.4L jug. Comparatively, Mobil 1 is about $52.
 

swami

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i run shell rotella t synthetic 5w40 ($16.00 gallon) in my '07 kawasaki zzr600 and a purolator pureone filter. mobil1 0w30 is $26 for 5qt jug.
 

swami

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rotella t synthetic is JASO M certified now. sold the bike and run mobil1 for motorcycles in my 2009 zx6r. seems to shift smoother but it ought to at $9.99qt. OUCH!
 

gmail

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Time for an oil change and I'm wondering what you guys recommend for a filter. From what I could tell online the K&N HP-2009 seems like the best bet? Also, what kind of oil seems to work best? I'd rather stay away from synthetic just because it's so damn expensive! I realize this is probably a common question, but searching yielded many many results with irrelevant titles. Thanks for any and all input. -Joe



i run a wix racing high flow filter on the normal spot but i have a relocator kit plus i also run a bypass filter setup by amsoil and i get the best of both worlds. high flow which no one filter can keep up with the SHO oil flow and i also get the best filtering down to 1 micron with the bypass...

i got my oil tested and passed with flying colors even got the papers to prove it.. i shown no signs of wear or anything... they told me i could even have ran my oil another 5 - 10k instead of my 3k oil changes

EDIT: also i run shaeffers oil i just switched to a blend of 5 w 30 and 10 w 30 i run 4 of the 5 and 3 and half of the 10
 
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