No, no roller cams in a SHO motor. The cam lobe slides on the lifter shim. You need to do a 60k, sho_ted....
Oil/Filter Recommendations
- Thread starter Joe_SHO
- Start date
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No, no roller cams in a SHO motor. The cam lobe slides on the lifter shim. You need to do a 60k, sho_ted....
I'd say mostly because the FL-1A has english threads, and the FL400-S has metric threads....
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
So far, 384,000 miles on Castrol GTX 10W-30 oil and Motorcraft FL400S filters. I don't change the oil and filter, I just replace them.
38SHO
#1 Oil Abuser
I've put thought into that, and I wonder if that larger filter plays a role with oil pressure/volume.... it would be a hard thing to test.... But this engine was just made with that filter in mind, so thats why I stick with it. It would be interesting to find out who makes the motorcraft oil filter, I've been using them lately as they are cheap, but if I find out fram makes them or something, never again........
if I had to recromend oil filters heres my list
1-Ammsoil
2-K&N
3-Pure One
as for oil I was using Castrol 30HD, as its a SL rated oil.... right now I'm running Synthetics, from Mobil 1 to Castrol Syntec to a generic store brand...... I might switch off to the Rotella Syn that is SL rated like Kelvin runs, I've read about that a lot on here but can never find it in the stores, maybe I gotta special order it.. I would like to go back to a SL rated oil...
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K-Dawg
SHO Member
Wal-Mart carries it, but the newer jugs are SM. You should be able to find some SL left over on the shelves.
ShadetreeSHOguy
Postwhore
Castrol GTX 10w30 and Motocraft FL1a filters since ive owned my first SHO.
lol That just means it gets black quicker!
sho_ted
SHO Member
K-Dawg
SHO Member
Okay.
shobote
SHO Member
This is a good point; Researchers at oil companies I have worked with analyze wear particulates with energy/wavelength dispersive X-Ray analysis and they also recommend you stick with the same oil formulation, thereby reducing the effects of changing chemistry / metallurgy.
Mobile 1 came out with a high mileage 75,000 plus synthetic 15w-50 that I've been using in my 190,000+ mileage SHO. I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic in my other cars. I live in Phoenix, hence the thicker weight of oil. 15w is a lil thick as there are cool mornings here in the winter, but I let the car warm up when I drive it for the first few minutes. Peace of mind for me=changing oil every 3K or around every 4 months. These engines internals deserves to be pampered. My .02
after reading this thread I will try to add some valid information on the subject
first off 1989/1995 is the years of the 3.0/3.2 Yamaha engine. the oil recommeded in those owners manuals calls for obsolete lubricants.
It is still possible to buy those lubricants still today, I know Valvoline still sells the stuff, but SG reated oil is hard to find.
for more info search the following page for facts
http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/pubs/upload/English_Oil_Guide.pdf
I have had 7 SHOs since 1999 now I only have 6. my daily driver 1991SHO was stolen from me sep/25/08 I had 80,000 miles of drive time on it and I did all the maintenance myself. I used synthetic in that car all of those miles and changed it every 20,000 miles.
I now have a 1993 ATX SHO, {BROTHERS OLD CAR} and for the last 3 years we have had to add 1 qt oil to that every 1000 miles, leaky cam sensor seal,:cuss:
Finally I had stalling issues and had to make some repairs, so I did, stripped head on the crank bolt, crank sensor, cam sensor, cam sensor seal, timing belt tensionerATX, loose solid subframe bushings, had to shim one.
So after all that, now the car does not leak anymore $8 a quart synthetic oil.
my biggest question after 3 years/25,000+ miles and no oil change do I change it or do I take a oil sample? :swing:
SHO GoDz 89
True Sleeper
Take your oil pan off and see if the inside is lined with copper dust like mine was.
I did that 30,000 miles ago, it was clean and in need of a reseal, why do you think my engine will have copper dust?
I will order a oil sample kit and see the actual condition of my engine and oil.
I will post up the results
I can judge the condition by the wear metals present in the sample, Iron, Copper, Lead, Aluminum.... :thankyou:
bump. i decided to go with the mobile 1 syntec 5w-30 and a k&n gold filter. sure enough, synthetic made her leak. now i get to indulge in the smell of oil whenever i'm at a stop. however, i didn't see any spots on the garage floor after she sat there for a night. any ideas where this might be coming from or how to get rid of it? an easy short-term fix would be preferred as it is cold as **** for the next few months here in ND. maybe some sort of additive that cures leaks? thanks for the help! -Joe
NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
All I run is Castrol GTX and Ford FL1A filters :wave:
I'd just change it. (And I'm a big fan of extended drain intervals, but eventually, it needs changed.)
Joe_SHO said:
I'm guessing that its getting on the cat - it hardly takes any to notice a smell when you are stopped, and what little bit there is gets burned up. If that's the case, it is likely a cam seal. And, for some reason, the one on the rear cam, with the cam sensor seems to be the most likely to leak - since its the hardest to change.... However, a little leak from the power steering pump can do the same thing, and they are also notorious for not sealing completely.
Also, I have noticed that if I let the car stand for a few months, it will leak a little for a few weeks, until the seals get softened up again - so it may go away on its own in a couple of weeks, since it must be a very small leak.
oil companies use different additive packages to come up with 5w30 which are incompatible. the new oil removes the old deposits in oil seals, ring landings etc. and replaces it with the new concoction and can cause leaks. when i went to mobil1 0w30 i had a miss after 50 miles because of a leaking spark plug boot seal. it went away. it can take up to an entire oil change cycle for the "new" oil to replace the old. when synthetics first came out in 1979 they would cause leaks even on a new car but the molecule chains are longer now and blaming synthetics for leaks on a 14 year old plus car is an old wive's tale.
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