Let's talk AUDIO

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FiveLeeter918

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So I have a 2013 402A Sony Package. Stereo is good for my needs, but sometimes I miss a quality system.

Problem is its been 15 years since I last touched a stereo minus my Sync 3 upgrade, and most brands I knew back then are either junk now if even still in operation.

So what have you done for upgrades TO THE SONY SYSTEM.

These are a few things I've looked at based on Google and recommendations, but is this overkill? Figure this would help fine tune the existing system and also give an option to add a sub later if desired.
 

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Joshw0000

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I've added a sub, and I've toyed with the idea of upgrading the factory system. Following.

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Nova

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I have a sub and amp from my previous car and want to put it in my SHO but I read that you can tap into the rear door speakers (I think) to power the amp but can't find which wires to tap into...

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Joshw0000

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I have a sub and amp from my previous car and want to put it in my SHO but I read that you can tap into the rear door speakers (I think) to power the amp but can't find which wires to tap into...

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You'll need a LOC (PAC makes one for $30). The easiest place to pull signal is from the rear speakers. Just remove the overhead carpet in the trunk. OR you can pull signal from the factory amp. For that you'll need to remove the left carpet in the trunk and it'll involve figuring out which wires to tap into and cutting into a factory harness.

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Chuck Johnson

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No it is not overkill. I was in the same boat as you it was 17 years since my last install and s--t has changed. I went with the Axxess DSP(AXDSPX) because there is a T harness for sony and non sony system so you wont need to cut anything. I would have went with the DSR1 but there was not a T harness avaialble at that time, but there is one coming soon.
 

bpd1151

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So I have a 2013 402A Sony Package. Stereo is good for my needs, but sometimes I miss a quality system.

So what have you done for upgrades TO THE SONY SYSTEM.

Great question! Focusing on the crux of this query, that being what's been done TO THE SONY SYSTEM......

I had a vendor (Shockwave Customs, located in Frankfort, IL.) design, fabricate, wire and install the system that rests in my SHO.

Now I was somewhat specific (read between the lines.... I was a PITA) insomuch as I desired to retain the SONY headunit, steering wheel controls, etc. That said.....

They utilized their own speakers and amps, which can be found here:

AC Shockwave - Premium Car Audio
http://www.acshockwave.com/

Incorporated into my build as follows:

Two (2) 15" subwoofers
Two (2) 12" subwoofers
Two (2) 6x9's
Four (4) 5x7's
Four (4) tweeters

Two (2) 1000x4 Class D amps
Two (2) 600x4 Class D amps

For fear of not wanting to inundate this thread with an @$$ load of images, pictures of the build and it's progress can be found here (if the link doesn't work, blame Photobucket):

https://app.photobucket.com/u/bpd1151/a/a70ac909-d436-4669-89c6-526e045f7837

They also incorporated this nifty little device into the mix:

FiX-86 - Car Audio - Processors - OEM Integration - JL Audio
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/fix-86-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98103

I also had them wire in this device as well, so I can unlock all sorts of features while vehicle is in motion (see link for features accordingly):

GMX AIR
https://www.coastaletech.com/syncair.htm

Finally, I do have an extra deep cycle marine type battery in the trunk, along with an alternate power supply system that allows me to plug into electrical service (a common wall outlet) that provides me power while the vehicle's on display at shows, and not have to have the vehicle running/idling.

Granted, an extreme audio build in every sense of the concept. But then again, what's not been over the top with my SHO overall, right?

I actually had to have the amps de-tuned (turned down) after I noticed glue pooling up in each corner of the front and rear windshield(s). Mostly the rear. I was told that it was due to the audio literally vibrating the glue used to mount the glass, out of the glass's mounting tracks. Holy ****! That'd be a sight to see huh? The glass blowing OUT OF their frames that is. LOL. Oopsie.

Anyhow, here's a pic of the heart of the system. The vendor dubbed where the amps rest as the "cradle of power". LOL.

Hope that's of some help and LMK if that PB link worked or not. I can always add more pics as desired/requested.79967ae7fafdecd74b9bb56baaed1213

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
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AlexS925

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So I have a 2013 402A Sony Package. Stereo is good for my needs, but sometimes I miss a quality system.

Problem is its been 15 years since I last touched a stereo minus my Sync 3 upgrade, and most brands I knew back then are either junk now if even still in operation.

So what have you done for upgrades TO THE SONY SYSTEM.

These are a few things I've looked at based on Google and recommendations, but is this overkill? Figure this would help fine tune the existing system and also give an option to add a sub later if desired.
Whatever you do I would consider adding a sub or leaving room for one like you mentioned. The Sony system isn’t bad by any means but lacks any sort of quality bass. I have a single 12” in mine and that was enough to fill the void in the system (for me). Then again mine is a 2016 so it may be slightly different. Once you hear a subwoofer in a car it’s hard to avoid them lol, completely changes the music
 

Christian

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Changing out ALL the factory speakers to quality equivalents, then adding an amp to power a single 10" sub/box, was all I needed to fully transform my factory Sony system. It sounds awesome.
 

Lostneye

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I was prob one of the first if not the first Taurus out there with the DSR1. I had nothing but problems, noisy as ****, big turn on/off pops, lots of bugs in the app. I heard they worked out a lot of it and know someone else without near the noise issues I had with it. I swapped to the PAC which still had some noise but no where near the DSR1. I added the optical output which got rid of my noise issues. The DSR1 has a built in DSP which is a big plus if it works for you but it replaces the factory amp so you need to have amp channels for every speaker you plan on running. The PAC does not have a DSP but is less buggy and less noisy and will keep the factory amp so you can use that to still power any speakers you want and only have to add aftermarket power to speakers that you want.
 

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