Hybrid SHO
- Thread starter skyshadow07
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skyshadow07
On a mission to get below 4000lbs
That's next level. I can only imagine how much money he has tied up in that. Super impressed he created a one off gear reduction box.
From the wheel size that Audi S5 uses, I took his desired top speed of 120mph and his max rpm of 16,000 and calculated something near 9.5~10:1 gear ratio, on a single gear.
I finally found a old school gear shop that will cut me some gears but not require me to cut of my arm or leg for the service. I'm thinking somewhere between 4.5~5.5:1 ratio. But I'm not sure, I honestly need to nail down what I want my top speed to be and go from there. What you guys think is the minimum speed I need? (meaning I can not let the motor spin faster than 8000rpm so the gear ratio I choose caps my speed, even though the ICE can keep pulling.)
Side note, a battery firewall made of wood seems sketch.
From the wheel size that Audi S5 uses, I took his desired top speed of 120mph and his max rpm of 16,000 and calculated something near 9.5~10:1 gear ratio, on a single gear.
I finally found a old school gear shop that will cut me some gears but not require me to cut of my arm or leg for the service. I'm thinking somewhere between 4.5~5.5:1 ratio. But I'm not sure, I honestly need to nail down what I want my top speed to be and go from there. What you guys think is the minimum speed I need? (meaning I can not let the motor spin faster than 8000rpm so the gear ratio I choose caps my speed, even though the ICE can keep pulling.)
Side note, a battery firewall made of wood seems sketch.
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High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Use a one way clutch and you don't need to limit the wheel speeds. Or use similar to factory electronic clutch. Don't design the system around limits...
skyshadow07
On a mission to get below 4000lbs
Sprag clutch is a cool idea, complicates the design though. I would also lose regen braking.
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
You are apparently creating a more complex system than just a launch assist.
skyshadow07
On a mission to get below 4000lbs
I apologize for falling off the map all together. I took a job that sent me on a temp assignment to fix multiple facilities. I am back home now though. I have not forgotten or given up on this project. I was able to remote design and produce the adapter plate (pics attached). It was sitting at my house waiting for me when I got back. I actually made 5 total, because why not. Without being able to wrench on the car, I haven't gotten much physical stuff done. But, I have built out and ordered the EV set up for the car. I am at the point now that I need to decide if I want to built a custom fuel tank of put a cell in the trunk. I have built out one side of the custom tank that would go in the stock position. I keep running into design problems though. I am considering just going with the fuel cell.
luigisho
SHO Member
Fresh machining makes me happy. Love it!
I just stumbled across a couple manufacturers that produce fuel cells to fit the spare tire well and thought of you. Figured you might find them interesting/useful. Both are available in multiple sizes.
ATL Well Cell: http://www.atlinc.com/atl-fuel-cell-product-image-library.html
Fuel safe: https://fuelsafe.com/sa130-rs2/
skyshadow07
On a mission to get below 4000lbs
Those look good but holy **** they are not cheap, are they?
No definitely not, esp. for the aluminum one. But for convenience and potentially having a fuel cell without losing trunk space it seemed worth considering
skyshadow07
On a mission to get below 4000lbs
Men smarter than me, I need understanding. The stock fuel tank is essentially two tanks. There is some complexity that I need to make sure doesn't ***** me when going to a trunk tank. So, 1) the fuel level sensor ( on the driver side of the tank) has a fuel feed to it, why? B) There is another fuel feed to the driver side from the stock fuel pump. What is that? EVAP? Would I go limp mode eliminating the evap?
Pics for reference, 1st pic is the tank with the fuel level sensor with it's routing. Second pic is the end of the fuel line that goes from the pump to the driver side.
Pics for reference, 1st pic is the tank with the fuel level sensor with it's routing. Second pic is the end of the fuel line that goes from the pump to the driver side.
That is how the fuel gets pulled from the drivers side to the pump when you get to 1/4 tank or less. EVAP is connected to the pump on the passenger side. And yes...if you mess with the EVAP it will throw codes and go into limp mode.
skyshadow07
On a mission to get below 4000lbs
So If I use the drop in assembly for the pump and mount it on a aftermarket tank, think I would throw a code? My concern is there are going to be two ports on the assembly that I will have to either plug or leave open, Since I am not running a second "tank" to pump fuel to and from.
Yes its going to throw a code if it doesn't see the other level sensor. Jordan had this issue when he forgot to plug in either the connector or the tube. I'm betting one of the tuners will be able to fix that though.
EDIT: Just a thought...splice the wires from the secondary sensor into the primary. That way the computer see's the same values for both and wont freak out.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Yes, the jet/siphon pump from the drivers side fuel bucket siphons the fuel from the drivers side via that assembly found in the drivers side. The PCM doesn't like to see much difference between either side (how much, idk), hence the need for the level sender on both sides. If there is a difference, it could potentially mean a blockage or issue with the jet/siphon pump. As was mentioned, you could "fool" the PCM by either installing both into whatever external/alternative tank you are using, or possibly splicing, though I would check to ensure that the range for both sensors is the same (likely it is, just check to ensure). Check resistance at empty and full on both.
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