Hybrid SHO

[skyshadow07]

I feel like this is where Ford would or should have went with the SHO in 2020. I made a video instead of writing paragraphs for you to read. By the way, yeah I see that my adapter was not aligned in the video.

Cost break down (will update as I go)
Donor rear diff- $163.02
3D printing materials- $95.23
Battery pack- $1640.60

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Very cool!

 

[FiveLeeter918]

I like it!

 

[802SHO]

Awesome

 

[luigisho]

Holy shit! Can't wait to see this.

 

[Michigan-SHO]

This might change everything!!!


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[SM105K]

That is pretty damn cool.

 

[Jordan_R]

super neat! Keep us posted!

 

[skyshadow07]

Little more about the motor. It's a Netgain Hyper 9. Here are some specs on it's output.
Rated Torque: 173 Lb Ft (it's an electric motor so it makes this at 1rpm)
Rated Power: 120 HP (Hp is weird with electric motors. The rated number depends on load and motor efficiency. I would just focus on torque)
Max RPM: 8,000 (this is important for calculating final drive speed)

The motor makes 173 lb-ft at 1 rpm but that drops rather quick. At 4500rpm it is making roughly 115 lb-ft and at 6000 it makes only 57lb-ft. I'm hoping that at the higher speeds, the engine will take over the main load of work since the engine has essentially a reverse torque curve to the motor.

 

[High on Ethanol]

i like the innovation, as well as the concept. adapter plates are key for so much in automotive performance.
Id be concerned about battery/cooling/weight distribution. but for just drag racing only, you probably have the key to breaking records. go fuel cell in the trunk, decent battery, and set the voltage to 120% of maximum and set a few records.
for street use, you would be forced to make major sacrifices unless you used a smaller motor and set up some type of well thought out battery/electrical/clutch/charging system.

id say start a kickstarter/gofundme when you get it closer to refined and you can probably make some cash selling these.

 

[skyshadow07]

***, you're wiser than you look. Those are good ideas. Fuel cell is a quick and easy way around the tank issue. I could possibly mount the batteries where the tank currently is and put a fuel cell in the trunk. Wonder how difficult re-routing the fill neck would be. Would rather not open my trunk every time I need to fill up. Stand alone cooling of the motor is not required for low load or short use applications, It uses a heatsink. Water cooling can be added but I'm going to try and use it for short hits like drag applications or just simply getting off the line.

As for Kickstarter/GoFundMe type of stuff. I've probably made 20 things over the years where I've been told to do that. I have a problem where I see the flaws of the product and don't want to deal with customer follow up and such. For example, my vent mounted N-gauge mount. I don't want to sell that because when the screen of the N-gauge is pressed the mount wiggles about 1/8 of an inch. It's fine for me and I don't feel like redesigning to eliminate that issue for someone who isn't ok with it.

 

[Michigan-SHO]

***, you're wiser than you look. Those are good ideas. Fuel cell is a quick and easy way around the tank issue. I could possibly mount the batteries where the tank currently is and put a fuel cell in the trunk. Wonder how difficult re-routing the fill neck would be. Would rather not open my trunk every time I need to fill up. Stand alone cooling of the motor is not required for low load or short use applications, It uses a heatsink. Water cooling can be added but I'm going to try and use it for short hits like drag applications or just simply getting off the line.

As for Kickstarter/GoFundMe type of stuff. I've probably made 20 things over the years where I've been told to do that. I have a problem where I see the flaws of the product and don't want to deal with customer follow up and such. For example, my vent mounted N-gauge mount. I don't want to sell that because when the screen of the N-gauge is pressed the mount wiggles about 1/8 of an inch. It's fine for me and I don't feel like redesigning to eliminate that issue for someone who isn't ok with it.

Something like this should be able to handle your filler neck dilemma if you are going to use a fuel cell in the trunk.

 

[skyshadow07]

Fuel cell in the trunk is sounds smarter and smarter. Even if I clearance the stock gas tank, Do I want a gas tank inches away from something that can operate at 150 degree Celsius?

 

[skyshadow07]

Small update. I did a stress test on the adapter (virtually). Good news is even if the adapter is cast pure aluminum, the design is robust enough that EACH HOLE can handle 380lb-ft of force and keep a safety factor of 8.13. Anything above 8 is considered over engineered.

 

[Michigan-SHO]

Have you given any thought to how you are going to get the electric motor and the SHO to “talk” to each other and play nice?

 

[High on Ethanol]

I'm more interested in seeing the battery setup. Those motors are fairly simple to setup and control per design. Even a generic throttle body signal should be enough.

 

[skyshadow07]

*** hit it on the head. The controller can take generic throttle potentiometer 0-5 volt input. Just needs a brake pedal input and a neutral lock out. The battery was originally planned to be a 2S configuration with LG CHEM Lithium Ion Batteries @ 60.8V, 2.6kWh each. Unfortunately I can not find a vendor with those anymore so I'm moving towards Samsung INR 20R pre-built pack that produces 46V and has a 505wh capacity. Most likely in a 3S3P configuration.

 

[High on Ethanol]

It is probably obvious that I design, upgrade, maintain, and repair electrical systems.... If you don't know, now you know. I frequently admire or curse automotive electrical systems and designs.

 

[stripSHO]

Fascinating! So what’s the gear ratio of the RDU/What’s the final axle torque going to be? In stock form the SHO (PP) theoretically puts 5000 lb-ft out the transmission in 1st gear. Just a tune pushes that past 7000 lb-ft.

What’s the actual power and torque output of that motor derated for the lower voltage?

If I’m reading right, you’ll get about 20 seconds of peak power before those batteries die. What’s the recharging strategy going to be?

 

[skyshadow07]

Awesome questions, something I'm working out right now. There are two versions of the Hyper9. One is 62v-132v and the other is 90v-180v. The HV motor likes higher volts but asks for less amps to produce the same output, supposedly. I'm looking to build a pack that is either 85.8-109.2V (93.6v nominal) for the LV motor. Or a pack that is 128.7-163.8V (140.4v nominal) for the HV. I have yet to find any resource from Netgain or any vendor that gives guidance on power output on reduced input voltage. The nominal for the LV is 120v, which I would be about 78ish% of that. For the HV version, the nominal desired is 144v, which my HV pack would be very close to. At 3S3P, on the HV motor, I calculated 2.5min on 500A draw. Help me if I mathed wrong.