Hybrid SHO

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skyshadow07

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I stand corrected on the differential options. I'm almost certain that the rear differential is a Dana 28 IRS. It is stamped Dana (exact code is 07 12 12 BO DANA 1 2006311 17L528 41 14). Bad news is 41/14 is the ratio (2.93). Good news is, it looks like there are companies that produce R&P as well and LSD for that differential. Their catalog states a ratio of 3.73 and up.. Hopefully I can go real far up. I'm thinking ditch the complexity of the gear reduction box and run somewhere between 6:1 to 8:1 on the differential.
 

stripSHO

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No I would say 4:1 is right where you need to be, puts you at 153 mph @ 7200 rpm.

Keep in mind too that those rpm limits don't mean just turning the thing off past that point. A motor that's being driven rather than driving a load is a generator (hence the regen feature). So regardless whether you cut power, over-revving presents the opportunity for excessive voltage that can break down the insulation.

So, if you want big gear reduction for huge acceleration then that also means retaining the rdu clutch to disengage the motor once you've passed its usefulness.

Of course you could also swing for the fences and figure a workaround for Hyper9's low speed torque limit, but I'm assuming this is something you want to last for a while.
 

stripSHO

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2.93:1 isn't terrible either, puts the peak horsepower at 140 mph. Just obviously shifts those torque gains to even higher speeds
 

skyshadow07

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Available gear sizes I can find are 2.93, 3.21 and 4.56
4.56 put me at 139mph at 7200rpm. I feel like that is a good give and take for torque and speed.
 

stripSHO

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Available gear sizes I can find are 2.93, 3.21 and 4.56
4.56 put me at 139mph at 7200rpm. I feel like that is a good give and take for torque and speed.
Nice! And you can still go up to 155 mph before you're at redline
 

stripSHO

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So what's your commute like? Any hope of this becoming your primary propulsion around town? Would be kinda weird since you would still need the engine running for brakes and steering
 

skyshadow07

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I live fairly close to work, About 8 miles and all city driving. I would have to put some kind of disconnect switch on the throttle output to the ecu so I'm not revving in neutral while I drive haa
Well the company (Yukon Gear) stopped making the 4.56 gear set a while back. No one still has stock. Apparently a Ford Flex NA V6 AWD uses the dana 28 and has a 3.39 final gear. I've also been told by others to look into custom cut gears but I can not find a company that says they do that.
If anyone knows of any other higher ratio OEM gears in Dana 28 IRS, let me know.
 

High on Ethanol

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I live fairly close to work, About 8 miles and all city driving. I would have to put some kind of disconnect switch on the throttle output to the ecu so I'm not revving in neutral while I drive haa
Well the company (Yukon Gear) stopped making the 4.56 gear set a while back. No one still has stock. Apparently a Ford Flex NA V6 AWD uses the dana 28 and has a 3.39 final gear. I've also been told by others to look into custom cut gears but I can not find a company that says they do that.
If anyone knows of any other higher ratio OEM gears in Dana 28 IRS, let me know.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yukon-Gear-and-Axle-gear-set-4-56-Dana-28-Ford-7-1-2-/133189046986
 

skyshadow07

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Good looking out but that Dana 28 is for a late 90s/early2000s solid axle Ranger. Its a 7.5 inch ring. The Dana 28 IRS is a 6.625 inch ring. The Dana 28 IFS (also for Ranger) is the same diameter but it is reverse cut for a high pinion placement.

I went down a 4x4 forum rabbit hole this morning... lol

I will say, I didn't find what you sent me just now though so I know I missed things.
 

skyshadow07

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If I swap axles to a more common axle, I lose the large face to mount the motor to. I would have to start over essentially and fabricate a chassis mount. That mount would have to be perfectly centered enough that the shafts don't vibrate or break from misalignment. At that point, we're getting really involved... like I'm not already
 

stripSHO

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Lol I think we're going to slowly nudge you into a salvage tesla swap.

you could toss in a 3 position switch to toggle the pedal between engine, motor, and both.

I went ahead and redid the chart with 2.93:1 for yaUpload 2020 12 9 21 25 21
 

skyshadow07

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Tesla anything on the second hand market is coated in gold or something. They want astronomical prices for things.
 

Nova

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Tesla anything on the second hand market is coated in gold or something. They want astronomical prices for things.
Maybe its because tesla has been in space? Kehngt173ihynie0946cew23avaawlviq0xeo25tridgiphy

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

skyshadow07

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Update
Quiet snowy Sunday so I decided to look at tolerances on the motor. I attached some photos of the motor attached to the donor diff. It's aligned front to back with the stock diff. I was unable to align it left to right because the exhaust. I have built a side dump exhaust (there is a thread about it here somewhere) that I'll put back on to make that clearance. It looks like the contact points are going to run directly into the middle of the 'bridge' of the gas tank. I know we all think a fuel cell is the best option but they are as much as my battery pack was. I have a donor tank, I'll use that to try and figure out a work around.
I also attached pics showing how compact this motor is. Aside from the contacts area, the motor is actually smaller than diameter than the differential housing.
IMG 20201213 174222 IMG 20201213 175158 IMG 20201213 175109 IMG 20201213 174306 IMG 20201213 174254
 

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