Gauge issues

[Samtheman94]

Hey guys,
So I finally got my 92 mtx home safe and sound. On the car ride home I noticed the speedometer had quite a bit of play along with a noise I can only describe as popcorn behind the dash. And also the gas gauge doesn’t work. Thinking I’m gonna look into a new float or mechanism inside the gas tank for the gas gauge, but a bit stumped on the speedometer. Any help would be appreciated.
Sam

 

[zoomlater]

Could be your speedo cable needs lubrication or something is going with the connection on the back side where the speedo cable connects to the speedometer. There is an upper and lower speedo cable. The lower cable goes vertically into the top of the t r a n n y (sort of under the brake reservoir). About halfway up, there is a connector you can split the speedo cables. I have separated the cables at this joint and then pivoted the upper cable up so I could get some speedo cable l u b e into the bottom end of the upper speedo cable. Then keep it above where it enters the firewall to try and get lubricant to the top end of the speedo cable. (Well see how many of these words get censored)

 

[Samtheman94]

Thanks so much, I’ll check the speedo cable out. As for the fuel gage, I didn’t see any float or mechanism for sale on rockauto. Any idea what that could be?

 

[luigisho]

Usually it's the sending unit. on there it looks like it comes as an assembly with a fuel pump. You need to make sure if you get that the fuel pump flow rate is comparable as oem. I forget what oem flow rate is but it's not alot I think high 120's to about 150ish ( I had a 155lph that did not overrun the fuel pressure regulator). Too big and the FPR starts to have issues with too much fuel flow. Something like this. I'm not sure if this comes with the pump included. You should verify before you buy https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../a/5545/automotive-car-1992-ford-taurus?pos=0

You want to be around 35-40 ish GPH flow. google will convert gph to lph if you need to check

 

[zoomlater]

Thanks so much, I’ll check the speedo cable out. As for the fuel gage, I didn’t see any float or mechanism for sale on rockauto. Any idea what that could be?

When you have the speedo cable disconnected, try spinning by hand to see if it is hanging up and if it moves the speedometer. The end that mates with the speedometer has to pushed on, there some type of clip (if you search on ebay for SHO speedometer cable, there is one you can look at to see what the end looks like). You can feel it when you put your hand behind the dash and feel for the center of the speedometer. Depending on what the previous owner did, they may have been trying to fix it before you got the car.

You might try doing a search on this forum for gas tank fuel gauge and see what comes up.

 

[rubydist]

I have had several of these where the speedo cable needed to be re-lubed.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Doesn't look like there's any problem with the fuel pump itself. It's just the gauge that isn't working.

The float for the gas gauge is in the tank as an integral part of the fuel pump assembly, not the pump itself. I doubt if there's anything wrong with it. Best to check out the gauge circuit. There's a removable slosh module in the back of the instrument cluster that may have gone bad. I'll see if I can post the circuit diagram later on.

 

[PaulTAutoX]

Could be your speedo cable needs lubrication or something is going with the connection on the back side where the speedo cable connects to the speedometer. There is an upper and lower speedo cable. The lower cable goes vertically into the top of the t r a n n y (sort of under the brake reservoir). About halfway up, there is a connector you can split the speedo cables. I have separated the cables at this joint and then pivoted the upper cable up so I could get some speedo cable l u b e into the bottom end of the upper speedo cable. Then keep it above where it enters the firewall to try and get lubricant to the top end of the speedo cable. (Well see how many of these words get censored)

Heh, heheheh, he said "****" (in my best Beavis and Butthead imitation). Dunno why "all y'all" can't just type out transmission, it's just a couple of letters longer than spacing it out like that.
I can't remember how large the connection is for the cable split, it might be small enough to use a "cable luber tool for motorcycle", search Amazon or your favorite parts store for that term and you will find a couple of choices. It essentially allows you to slightly pressurize the end of the cable with the lubricant and get more of it to the right place.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Circuit diagram is for a 92.

 

[FastCAD]

Hey guys,
So I finally got my 92 mtx home safe and sound. On the car ride home I noticed the speedometer had quite a bit of play along with a noise I can only describe as popcorn behind the dash. And also the gas gauge doesn’t work. Thinking I’m gonna look into a new float or mechanism inside the gas tank for the gas gauge, but a bit stumped on the speedometer. Any help would be appreciated.
Sam

Was anyone inside your dash cluster? If so the gauge connection could have been compromised and you can check the speedo front end connection.

 

[Samtheman94]

Thank you all so much for responding to my thread. Ended up paying for the speedometer not working via state trooper. Seems like all the cables need some lubrication, but as far as the gas gauge goes, when the electrical turns on the gauge slowly goes up as it would normally, and then it goes to the very top of the gauge and doesn’t budge. I feel like if it were an electrical connection it would just sit on E, not go all the way up past full. So assuming it’s the float and/or mechanism in the fuel pump, that means I need a whole new assembly?

 

[BaySHO Performance]

as far as the gas gauge goes, when the electrical turns on the gauge slowly goes up as it would normally, and then it goes to the very top of the gauge and doesn’t budge. I feel like if it were an electrical connection it would just sit on E, not go all the way up past full. So assuming it’s the float and/or mechanism in the fuel pump, that means I need a whole new assembly?

That's pretty much the problem I had with an '89. Turned out to be the slosh module plugged into the back of the instrument cluster. The '92 has one as well. I'm pretty certain they are all the same 90-95, but the '89 is definitely different. Although the sender might be the culprit, it's less likely IMHO.

 

[luigisho]

Slosh module is new to me. Interested

 

[BaySHO Performance]

My problem was the opposite of yours. Turn ignition on, gauge goes to 1/4-1/2 full but then slowly returns to zero.

If you ever take a look at the sender in the tank, you can check the resistance out by raising and lowering it: 22.5 ohms empty, 145 ohms full.

 

[Samtheman94]

My problem was the opposite of yours. Turn ignition on, gauge goes to 1/4-1/2 full but then slowly returns to zero.

If you ever take a look at the sender in the tank, you can check the resistance out by raising and lowering it: 22.5 ohms empty, 145 ohms full.

Sweet that’s great info, time to get out the voltmeter

Was anyone inside your dash cluster? If so the gauge connection could have been compromised and you can check the speedo front end connection.

As far as I know, no. It’s got a hard button EATC and a (crappily wired) aftermarket head unit so I know someone messed around a bit inside, but as far as gauges go everything looks **** stock, no missing screws or anything holding the dash together.

 

[zoomlater]

A quick ebay search of Ford slosh/gage module shows it looks like a small circuit board. Is this easily replaceable? I had not heard of this part before either. Ad says:

Product controls fuel gauge while driving, allowing the fuel level to remain constant while fuel "sloshes" around.

looks like there is someone selling NOS ones that are supposed to be compatible for 90 to 95 Taurus, search for:

NOS 1990-1995 Mustang Anti-Slosh Module / Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator

 

[Samtheman94]

A quick ebay search of Ford slosh/gage module shows it looks like a small circuit board. Is this easily replaceable? I had not heard of this part before either. Ad says:

Product controls fuel gauge while driving, allowing the fuel level to remain constant while fuel "sloshes" around.

looks like there is someone selling NOS ones that are supposed to be compatible for 90 to 95 Taurus, search for:

NOS 1990-1995 Mustang Anti-Slosh Module / Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator

Sweet, I’ll look into it. Is this module on the fuel pump itself or is it in a fuse box somewhere?

 

[zoomlater]

Sweet, I’ll look into it. Is this module on the fuel pump itself or is it in a fuse box somewhere?

Hopefully Nick will reply, I imagine it is somewhere near the dash area or part of the gage assembly

 

[BaySHO Performance]

The slosh module is plugged into the back of the instrument cluster, which has to be removed to get at it. Then it's a simple matter of pulling it out. The eBay listing says it is compatible with your '92.

 

[Samtheman94]

I’ll troubleshoot first thing tomorrow and see what the issue really is, I’ll keep you guys updated. Looks like in order to troubleshoot, you have to (and I’m quoting from the info I found) “If you disconnect the harness at the sending unit and the gauge reads full then your sending unit is the problem, if the gauge doesn't move then it’s your anti slosh module.” In case anyone was wondering.