802SHO 2010 Build
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It has some sort of internal hydraulic leak. Any other damage will be found once Kevin my trans builder disassembles it.
Kevin Quinlan my trans builder is interested to open it up. He said it could be filter is getting clogged and off/on dislodges debris temporarily? Could be burnt clutches maybe but the failure path would have you believe otherwise if you only did a short 10 min drive or so. Turned it off. Turned it back on and drove home.
Either way we’ll see exactly what’s going on. There’s an awesome converter swap on YT. It’s a ‘10 flex. He has a very clever strategy to remove only the transmission.
Remove everything above the trans. Battery, airbox, etc. completely remove the top trans mount. Then put it back on with 3 bolts loose. Remove the front wheels, brakes, lower control arms and tie rods from the knuckles. Remove both axles. Remove all downpipes. Remove all bell housing bolts but one up top. Disconnect steering column bolt and make sure the steering wheel is centered. Now remove the lower trans mounts. Drop the subframe with EPS attached and front sway bar. (Edit) disconnect the PTU from the drive shaft and PTU engine bracket. Remove the bell housing converter dust shield and rotate the crank and remove all TC bolts .
Engine and transmission are suspended with the engine mount and top trans mounts + one top bell housing bolt. Remove the trans cooler lines from the transmission inlet and outlet. These remain connected, you’re just freeing them from the transmission itself. Now with the subframe out of the way….support the engine and support the transmission. Remove the top trans mount and finally last bell housing bolt and drop the transmission. He did this with the front clip still installed. On jack stands outside.
I’m going to do the same thing. For me I’ll need to drain my coolant simply bc my turbos are attached to my subframe and it’ll be much cleaner to loosen all AN oil and coolant lines at the turbo chargers when they are empty of fluid mostly. I’ll have to remove my up pipes and wastegates. And both Wastegate and turbo exhaust dumps. I’ll be lowering my subframe with turbos attached. And bc I’m also doing a new engine mount on the passenger side the coolant drained makes removing the reservoir easier and less messy.
This to me is as simple and straightforward as it could get.
Either way we’ll see exactly what’s going on. There’s an awesome converter swap on YT. It’s a ‘10 flex. He has a very clever strategy to remove only the transmission.
Remove everything above the trans. Battery, airbox, etc. completely remove the top trans mount. Then put it back on with 3 bolts loose. Remove the front wheels, brakes, lower control arms and tie rods from the knuckles. Remove both axles. Remove all downpipes. Remove all bell housing bolts but one up top. Disconnect steering column bolt and make sure the steering wheel is centered. Now remove the lower trans mounts. Drop the subframe with EPS attached and front sway bar. (Edit) disconnect the PTU from the drive shaft and PTU engine bracket. Remove the bell housing converter dust shield and rotate the crank and remove all TC bolts .
Engine and transmission are suspended with the engine mount and top trans mounts + one top bell housing bolt. Remove the trans cooler lines from the transmission inlet and outlet. These remain connected, you’re just freeing them from the transmission itself. Now with the subframe out of the way….support the engine and support the transmission. Remove the top trans mount and finally last bell housing bolt and drop the transmission. He did this with the front clip still installed. On jack stands outside.
I’m going to do the same thing. For me I’ll need to drain my coolant simply bc my turbos are attached to my subframe and it’ll be much cleaner to loosen all AN oil and coolant lines at the turbo chargers when they are empty of fluid mostly. I’ll have to remove my up pipes and wastegates. And both Wastegate and turbo exhaust dumps. I’ll be lowering my subframe with turbos attached. And bc I’m also doing a new engine mount on the passenger side the coolant drained makes removing the reservoir easier and less messy.
This to me is as simple and straightforward as it could get.
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Purchased 2 Omni Power 4bar sensors for TIP and MAP.
And new engine mount.
Junkyard transmission is still up in there air as far as which one I’ll get. One in NY I was considering picking up is $500 40k miles but it’s about 9 hours round trip.
Second one is same with 40,700 miles and it’s $350 from Utah I am waiting to find out Monday about shipping. It should only be about $200 or so shipped directly to my local UPS freight so I’d rather do that and not drive 9 hours. So if I end up paying $600-700 and don’t have to drive anywhere far…that’s ideal.
Current transmission I’m going to start the removal process today. Once done I’ll have a used low mileage transmission, new engine mount and upgraded to 4bar TIP and MAP. Then program the used trans, reset adaptive learning and do the relearn then retest same tune as-is.
And new engine mount.
Junkyard transmission is still up in there air as far as which one I’ll get. One in NY I was considering picking up is $500 40k miles but it’s about 9 hours round trip.
Second one is same with 40,700 miles and it’s $350 from Utah I am waiting to find out Monday about shipping. It should only be about $200 or so shipped directly to my local UPS freight so I’d rather do that and not drive 9 hours. So if I end up paying $600-700 and don’t have to drive anywhere far…that’s ideal.
Current transmission I’m going to start the removal process today. Once done I’ll have a used low mileage transmission, new engine mount and upgraded to 4bar TIP and MAP. Then program the used trans, reset adaptive learning and do the relearn then retest same tune as-is.
Ended up buying one with 53k miles 
$450 + $275 shipped.
Still waiting to hear from PNH about potentially doing a stage 1 or 2 converter for this. A proper converter is still helpful. When I bought my car in 2015 it had 52k miles. And it lasted fine so this one should be good. It’s either been serviced once or twice or never at all. No better time to replace the filter than when it’s already out sitting on a pallet. Take a look inside and should just be able to seal it with new filter and new shaft seal.
As far as removing my transmission I’m at the point to start draining fluids.
If I just go ahead and drain the transmission, engine and radiator I can simply disconnect all turbo oil, coolant lines and keep it all relatively clean and mess free.
I need to call though on the transmission bc the person who took my info and payment information was unable to process while I was on the phone. I still haven’t been charged so I’m assuming they need to remove it and then once they ship they’ll charge? I’m just going to call to confirm that assumption.
Once it ships it’s 3 days arrival time.
$450 + $275 shipped.
Still waiting to hear from PNH about potentially doing a stage 1 or 2 converter for this. A proper converter is still helpful. When I bought my car in 2015 it had 52k miles. And it lasted fine so this one should be good. It’s either been serviced once or twice or never at all. No better time to replace the filter than when it’s already out sitting on a pallet. Take a look inside and should just be able to seal it with new filter and new shaft seal.
As far as removing my transmission I’m at the point to start draining fluids.
If I just go ahead and drain the transmission, engine and radiator I can simply disconnect all turbo oil, coolant lines and keep it all relatively clean and mess free.I need to call though on the transmission bc the person who took my info and payment information was unable to process while I was on the phone. I still haven’t been charged so I’m assuming they need to remove it and then once they ship they’ll charge? I’m just going to call to confirm that assumption.
Once it ships it’s 3 days arrival time.
Transmission update:
Apparently buying and shipping a used transmission is significantly harder than it should be. The first one I thought I bought never shipped. They never charged me, and then wouldn’t answer the phone when I called.
I’ve talked to several salvage yards since and some of these conversations have been like trying to make small talk with a bouncer at a redneck picnic. Just no personality whatsoever. One guy was particularly impressive. I called asking whether a specific inventory number was still available. He kept asking, “What’s it for?”
The inventory number literally includes what it’s for.
So after going back and forth I finally said, “2013 Ford Taurus, 3.5L turbo transmission.”
“Don’t have it.”
Click.
He hung up basically the instant I finished describing it.
Anyway, I finally found a decent person to deal with and what looks like a really nice transmission over in Indiana. It’s a complete 6F55 out of a 2014 Taurus SHO with 52,700 miles. The salvage yard says the transmission looks outstanding, the fluid coming out of it looked excellent, and the car appeared to have been very well maintained before it was wrecked.
Transmission is $650 and I’m working out freight, which should be around $280. It includes the original 52k-mile torque converter, but I’ve decided not to use it. I’m sending that converter back and ordering a brand-new converter from PNH.
After talking with PNH, I also learned their Stage 1/2/3 descriptions on the website aren’t really how they build these. They configure them based on the application. For simplicity, though, what I’m buying could basically be considered their Stage 1 performance converter.
It’s the PNH 2450SSAX with a 2500-rpm stall. It’s furnace brazed with internal upgrades, a balloon plate and heavy-duty bearings. It’s about $500 before tax/shipping, probably around $570 delivered.
It’s a nice middle ground between an OEM converter and the full custom PNH converter I already have, which has the billet cover, triple-disc lockup and custom stall.
So the new combination:
52,700-mile stock 2014 SHO 6F55 + brand-new PNH 2500-stall SSAX converter + fresh fluid. All-in I’ll have roughly $1,500 into the transmission, freight and new converter.
I’m actually getting really fond of this little plan. I’ve already taken a completely stock 6F55 and stock converter repeatedly into the low 11s. This gives me another healthy OEM transmission, but this time with a better converter and considerably more control over the transmission calibration than I had back then.
My Kevlar transmission and custom PNH triple-disc aren’t going anywhere. Those can come back for the next power level. For now I want to finish the 93-octane calibration and see exactly what a healthy stock 6F55, upgraded converter and properly calibrated pressure/torque management can accomplish.
Apparently buying and shipping a used transmission is significantly harder than it should be. The first one I thought I bought never shipped. They never charged me, and then wouldn’t answer the phone when I called.
I’ve talked to several salvage yards since and some of these conversations have been like trying to make small talk with a bouncer at a redneck picnic. Just no personality whatsoever. One guy was particularly impressive. I called asking whether a specific inventory number was still available. He kept asking, “What’s it for?”
The inventory number literally includes what it’s for.
So after going back and forth I finally said, “2013 Ford Taurus, 3.5L turbo transmission.”
“Don’t have it.”
Click.
He hung up basically the instant I finished describing it.
Anyway, I finally found a decent person to deal with and what looks like a really nice transmission over in Indiana. It’s a complete 6F55 out of a 2014 Taurus SHO with 52,700 miles. The salvage yard says the transmission looks outstanding, the fluid coming out of it looked excellent, and the car appeared to have been very well maintained before it was wrecked.
Transmission is $650 and I’m working out freight, which should be around $280. It includes the original 52k-mile torque converter, but I’ve decided not to use it. I’m sending that converter back and ordering a brand-new converter from PNH.
After talking with PNH, I also learned their Stage 1/2/3 descriptions on the website aren’t really how they build these. They configure them based on the application. For simplicity, though, what I’m buying could basically be considered their Stage 1 performance converter.
It’s the PNH 2450SSAX with a 2500-rpm stall. It’s furnace brazed with internal upgrades, a balloon plate and heavy-duty bearings. It’s about $500 before tax/shipping, probably around $570 delivered.
It’s a nice middle ground between an OEM converter and the full custom PNH converter I already have, which has the billet cover, triple-disc lockup and custom stall.
So the new combination:
52,700-mile stock 2014 SHO 6F55 + brand-new PNH 2500-stall SSAX converter + fresh fluid. All-in I’ll have roughly $1,500 into the transmission, freight and new converter.
I’m actually getting really fond of this little plan. I’ve already taken a completely stock 6F55 and stock converter repeatedly into the low 11s. This gives me another healthy OEM transmission, but this time with a better converter and considerably more control over the transmission calibration than I had back then.
My Kevlar transmission and custom PNH triple-disc aren’t going anywhere. Those can come back for the next power level. For now I want to finish the 93-octane calibration and see exactly what a healthy stock 6F55, upgraded converter and properly calibrated pressure/torque management can accomplish.
Alright this got interesting. I’m about to call this ‘14 non PP SHO 6F55 out of retirement and back into active duty. This was inventoried back in 1/16/2019……………forgotten about, collecting dust.
It’s about to wake up to Twin G25-550’s.
She’s a little crusty from 7-1/2 years sitting in storage. Not exactly what I was excepting from the description. However the surface oxidation actually isn’t concerning. Converter is a core anyway.
PNH got back to me and it’s actually $597 for that converter. That’s on order. All of this is coming together nicely.
This is the perfect junkyard story. Nice unit from ‘14, driven 52,700 miles in 5 years and retired to a storage locker. 7 1/2 years later it’s headed to me to finish 93 octane tuning.
It’ll get a fresh paint job, new upgraded PNH converter and sent directly to War. It’s fate is sealed lol
It’s about to wake up to Twin G25-550’s.
She’s a little crusty from 7-1/2 years sitting in storage. Not exactly what I was excepting from the description. However the surface oxidation actually isn’t concerning. Converter is a core anyway.
PNH got back to me and it’s actually $597 for that converter. That’s on order. All of this is coming together nicely.
This is the perfect junkyard story. Nice unit from ‘14, driven 52,700 miles in 5 years and retired to a storage locker. 7 1/2 years later it’s headed to me to finish 93 octane tuning.
It’ll get a fresh paint job, new upgraded PNH converter and sent directly to War. It’s fate is sealed lol
Or vented, which ever comes last - lol
I think it’ll be funny if it performs. Why take it out at that point? 8 months later, so the junkyard transmission is still in…..hahaha
The PNH 2450 SSAX 2500rpm stall converter is paid for. So after a $200 core refund it’s actually $700 delivered that’s not too bad.
This is the break down for the SSAX.
The invoice you get looks like this
I’m eager to test out their converters anyway. Kevin Quinlan asked me who I used and when I said PNH he said, “they do a good job.” That’s good to hear.
This is more than just a junkyard trans with this converter but I think this setup will be a good one. I know we all categorized the 6F55 as weak and can’t handle more than 600 wheel as far back as Mike Bambic’s Flex. What was the failure of his transmission does anyone remember?
That was like what 2014? Tuning back then I wonder if the torque management was just disabled and it was harsher than it needed to be. Mike talked about replacing it and continuing but then he ended up quitting and I don’t recall what failed in the transmission.
That was back when everyone still believed the PTU was a lifetime fluid. Who knows the condition of his transmission, converter or the fluid or how the torque model was tuned. So it didn’t necessarily die bc of 600 wheel. It died when 600 wheel was tested. Those are not the same thing. Opening up the transmission at that point to document the failure and share is more valuable than it last ran at 600 wheel.
My point is, what if the 6F55 isn’t that weak. What if it’s actually durable. What if it just needs a simple converter upgrade and keep the OEM pressure strategy, unless data decides it could use a bump and maybe tune the shift scheduling?
Would be one funny plot twist to end up proving how durable a well taken care of stock 6F55 is and especially paired with a simple converter upgrade.
I end up saying I built up transmission as much as possible, assumed it was weak, had issues with the fluid pressure so I grabbed a good used trans, stock and it won’t quit. No issue, just a converter upgrade. Like what the f? I wouldn’t be surprised at this point if it was all based off an assumption.
This is the break down for the SSAX.
The invoice you get looks like this
I’m eager to test out their converters anyway. Kevin Quinlan asked me who I used and when I said PNH he said, “they do a good job.” That’s good to hear.
This is more than just a junkyard trans with this converter but I think this setup will be a good one. I know we all categorized the 6F55 as weak and can’t handle more than 600 wheel as far back as Mike Bambic’s Flex. What was the failure of his transmission does anyone remember?
That was like what 2014? Tuning back then I wonder if the torque management was just disabled and it was harsher than it needed to be. Mike talked about replacing it and continuing but then he ended up quitting and I don’t recall what failed in the transmission.
That was back when everyone still believed the PTU was a lifetime fluid. Who knows the condition of his transmission, converter or the fluid or how the torque model was tuned. So it didn’t necessarily die bc of 600 wheel. It died when 600 wheel was tested. Those are not the same thing. Opening up the transmission at that point to document the failure and share is more valuable than it last ran at 600 wheel.
My point is, what if the 6F55 isn’t that weak. What if it’s actually durable. What if it just needs a simple converter upgrade and keep the OEM pressure strategy, unless data decides it could use a bump and maybe tune the shift scheduling?
Would be one funny plot twist to end up proving how durable a well taken care of stock 6F55 is and especially paired with a simple converter upgrade.
I end up saying I built up transmission as much as possible, assumed it was weak, had issues with the fluid pressure so I grabbed a good used trans, stock and it won’t quit. No issue, just a converter upgrade. Like what the f? I wouldn’t be surprised at this point if it was all based off an assumption.
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