802SHO 2010 Build
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It has some sort of internal hydraulic leak. Any other damage will be found once Kevin my trans builder disassembles it.
Kevin Quinlan my trans builder is interested to open it up. He said it could be filter is getting clogged and off/on dislodges debris temporarily? Could be burnt clutches maybe but the failure path would have you believe otherwise if you only did a short 10 min drive or so. Turned it off. Turned it back on and drove home.
Either way we’ll see exactly what’s going on. There’s an awesome converter swap on YT. It’s a ‘10 flex. He has a very clever strategy to remove only the transmission.
Remove everything above the trans. Battery, airbox, etc. completely remove the top trans mount. Then put it back on with 3 bolts loose. Remove the front wheels, brakes, lower control arms and tie rods from the knuckles. Remove both axles. Remove all downpipes. Remove all bell housing bolts but one up top. Disconnect steering column bolt and make sure the steering wheel is centered. Now remove the lower trans mounts. Drop the subframe with EPS attached and front sway bar. (Edit) disconnect the PTU from the drive shaft and PTU engine bracket. Remove the bell housing converter dust shield and rotate the crank and remove all TC bolts .
Engine and transmission are suspended with the engine mount and top trans mounts + one top bell housing bolt. Remove the trans cooler lines from the transmission inlet and outlet. These remain connected, you’re just freeing them from the transmission itself. Now with the subframe out of the way….support the engine and support the transmission. Remove the top trans mount and finally last bell housing bolt and drop the transmission. He did this with the front clip still installed. On jack stands outside.
I’m going to do the same thing. For me I’ll need to drain my coolant simply bc my turbos are attached to my subframe and it’ll be much cleaner to loosen all AN oil and coolant lines at the turbo chargers when they are empty of fluid mostly. I’ll have to remove my up pipes and wastegates. And both Wastegate and turbo exhaust dumps. I’ll be lowering my subframe with turbos attached. And bc I’m also doing a new engine mount on the passenger side the coolant drained makes removing the reservoir easier and less messy.
This to me is as simple and straightforward as it could get.
Either way we’ll see exactly what’s going on. There’s an awesome converter swap on YT. It’s a ‘10 flex. He has a very clever strategy to remove only the transmission.
Remove everything above the trans. Battery, airbox, etc. completely remove the top trans mount. Then put it back on with 3 bolts loose. Remove the front wheels, brakes, lower control arms and tie rods from the knuckles. Remove both axles. Remove all downpipes. Remove all bell housing bolts but one up top. Disconnect steering column bolt and make sure the steering wheel is centered. Now remove the lower trans mounts. Drop the subframe with EPS attached and front sway bar. (Edit) disconnect the PTU from the drive shaft and PTU engine bracket. Remove the bell housing converter dust shield and rotate the crank and remove all TC bolts .
Engine and transmission are suspended with the engine mount and top trans mounts + one top bell housing bolt. Remove the trans cooler lines from the transmission inlet and outlet. These remain connected, you’re just freeing them from the transmission itself. Now with the subframe out of the way….support the engine and support the transmission. Remove the top trans mount and finally last bell housing bolt and drop the transmission. He did this with the front clip still installed. On jack stands outside.
I’m going to do the same thing. For me I’ll need to drain my coolant simply bc my turbos are attached to my subframe and it’ll be much cleaner to loosen all AN oil and coolant lines at the turbo chargers when they are empty of fluid mostly. I’ll have to remove my up pipes and wastegates. And both Wastegate and turbo exhaust dumps. I’ll be lowering my subframe with turbos attached. And bc I’m also doing a new engine mount on the passenger side the coolant drained makes removing the reservoir easier and less messy.
This to me is as simple and straightforward as it could get.
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Purchased 2 Omni Power 4bar sensors for TIP and MAP.
And new engine mount.
Junkyard transmission is still up in there air as far as which one I’ll get. One in NY I was considering picking up is $500 40k miles but it’s about 9 hours round trip.
Second one is same with 40,700 miles and it’s $350 from Utah I am waiting to find out Monday about shipping. It should only be about $200 or so shipped directly to my local UPS freight so I’d rather do that and not drive 9 hours. So if I end up paying $600-700 and don’t have to drive anywhere far…that’s ideal.
Current transmission I’m going to start the removal process today. Once done I’ll have a used low mileage transmission, new engine mount and upgraded to 4bar TIP and MAP. Then program the used trans, reset adaptive learning and do the relearn then retest same tune as-is.
And new engine mount.
Junkyard transmission is still up in there air as far as which one I’ll get. One in NY I was considering picking up is $500 40k miles but it’s about 9 hours round trip.
Second one is same with 40,700 miles and it’s $350 from Utah I am waiting to find out Monday about shipping. It should only be about $200 or so shipped directly to my local UPS freight so I’d rather do that and not drive 9 hours. So if I end up paying $600-700 and don’t have to drive anywhere far…that’s ideal.
Current transmission I’m going to start the removal process today. Once done I’ll have a used low mileage transmission, new engine mount and upgraded to 4bar TIP and MAP. Then program the used trans, reset adaptive learning and do the relearn then retest same tune as-is.
Ended up buying one with 53k miles 
$450 + $275 shipped.
Still waiting to hear from PNH about potentially doing a stage 1 or 2 converter for this. A proper converter is still helpful. When I bought my car in 2015 it had 52k miles. And it lasted fine so this one should be good. It’s either been serviced once or twice or never at all. No better time to replace the filter than when it’s already out sitting on a pallet. Take a look inside and should just be able to seal it with new filter and new shaft seal.
As far as removing my transmission I’m at the point to start draining fluids.
If I just go ahead and drain the transmission, engine and radiator I can simply disconnect all turbo oil, coolant lines and keep it all relatively clean and mess free.
I need to call though on the transmission bc the person who took my info and payment information was unable to process while I was on the phone. I still haven’t been charged so I’m assuming they need to remove it and then once they ship they’ll charge? I’m just going to call to confirm that assumption.
Once it ships it’s 3 days arrival time.
$450 + $275 shipped.
Still waiting to hear from PNH about potentially doing a stage 1 or 2 converter for this. A proper converter is still helpful. When I bought my car in 2015 it had 52k miles. And it lasted fine so this one should be good. It’s either been serviced once or twice or never at all. No better time to replace the filter than when it’s already out sitting on a pallet. Take a look inside and should just be able to seal it with new filter and new shaft seal.
As far as removing my transmission I’m at the point to start draining fluids.
If I just go ahead and drain the transmission, engine and radiator I can simply disconnect all turbo oil, coolant lines and keep it all relatively clean and mess free.I need to call though on the transmission bc the person who took my info and payment information was unable to process while I was on the phone. I still haven’t been charged so I’m assuming they need to remove it and then once they ship they’ll charge? I’m just going to call to confirm that assumption.
Once it ships it’s 3 days arrival time.
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