Cheap Radiators?

[gmorrell]

Anyone seen the drain fitting on this one? I can't seem to crack it by hand... makes me nervous being aluminum if I have to put some channel locks on it I would worry about how strong those aluminum welds are.. ?? Looks like cheap brass piece.. can't say I've seen one like it before...

That's a standard plumbing store drain **** (bloody censor...). The fixed part that threads into the radiator tank will usually be 1/4" pipe thread, you can wrench the whole thing out of the tank at the pipe thread hex if you like, or put a backup wrench on the flats and grab the cross handle with some channel locks. It'll come open, the internal thread on the stem is a left-hand thread, but you turn it counter-clockwise to open it.

 

[Racer X]

Installed mine yesterday:



Don't forget to use the ground wire they give you, or make your own. There was a guy on TCCA who had a massive problem with electrolysis devouring his heater cores; adding a ground wire finally stopped it.

 

[K-Dawg]

I've had mine in for a month or so. I took some pics, so I'll get them on here. Was pretty much a bolt-in. Had to snip off a piece of the fan shroud to get it to fit tight against the radiator. Otherwise, the filler neck places the cap in a strange place and the stock overflow hose ends up going over the cap. No big deal, really.

 

[SHO Continental]

Anyone find any dual core aluminum radiators yet?

 

[Racer X]

I've had mine in for a month or so. I took some pics, so I'll get them on here. Was pretty much a bolt-in. Had to snip off a piece of the fan shroud to get it to fit tight against the radiator. Otherwise, the filler neck places the cap in a strange place and the stock overflow hose ends up going over the cap. No big deal, really.

I managed to get my overflow hose behind the radiator cap and neck.

 

[Racer X]

Anyone find any dual core aluminum radiators yet?

They're no longer manufactured.

 

[K-Dawg]

I managed to get my overflow hose behind the radiator cap and neck.

Yeah, same here, but it seemed to be a little pinched that way. It was also leaking a little at the ****** so I clamped it down with a zip-tie.

 

[Racer X]

I've had mine in for a month or so. I took some pics, so I'll get them on here. Was pretty much a bolt-in. Had to snip off a piece of the fan shroud to get it to fit tight against the radiator. Otherwise, the filler neck places the cap in a strange place and the stock overflow hose ends up going over the cap. No big deal, really.

Kelvin, where did you snip the fan shroud?

 

[whiteguy3]

I will probably invest in one of these aluminum radiators. Stock end-tanks are horrible and always leak over time....even after crimping. Also noticed that the bolt connection that always cracks the radiator under the upper radiator hose will not break anymore like the stock plastic radiators. That's a plus.

Has anybody noticed any difference in engine temps or other beneficial factors after installing this radiator?

 

[StAnGbAnGeR]

I actually purchased a genesis radiator about 2 months ago (basically right after I found this thred). I've had no issues at all, the radiator works just fine in my 93. The filler neck being angled has no impact.

 

[K-Dawg]

Kelvin, where did you snip the fan shroud?

Upper corner under the upper radiator hose. See the last picture.

 

[typhoon5000]

Ok, I got myself one of these rads and trying to install it in am ATX. Prob is, the fittings for the ATX cooler are way too small and I can't seem to find an adapter at any of the major auto parts or hardware stores since the lines are flared with a shank on the fitting. Anyone else install one of these rads in am ATX and found the proper adapter?

Edit: nevermind, I was able to use the fittings off of the old rad, then use an adapter without a flare in it. For any other ATX guys out there, it's an 3/8" down to 1/4" adapter that you need for each line.

 

[SHOMON]

I got this radiator also. What is up with the ground wire? I didn't get one. Where on the radiator did you guys mount the ground?

 

[K-Dawg]

The wire on mine goes from the top of the radiator to the core support.

BTW, I picked up another one of these for my 91.

 

[SHOMON]

Thanks Kelvin.

 

[SHOtimer]

Ok, I got myself one of these rads and trying to install it in am ATX. Prob is, the fittings for the ATX cooler are way too small and I can't seem to find an adapter at any of the major auto parts or hardware stores since the lines are flared with a shank on the fitting. Anyone else install one of these rads in am ATX and found the proper adapter?

Edit: nevermind, I was able to use the fittings off of the old rad, then use an adapter without a flare in it. For any other ATX guys out there, it's an 3/8" down to 1/4" adapter that you need for each line.

Did you get the ATX fans to fit?

Which motor did you order it for? (since it doesn't offer one for the ATX SHO...)

Doug

 

[wjayg]

Alum Rad

Ok, I got myself one of these rads and trying to install it in am ATX. Prob is, the fittings for the ATX cooler are way too small and I can't seem to find an adapter at any of the major auto parts or hardware stores since the lines are flared with a shank on the fitting. Anyone else install one of these rads in am ATX and found the proper adapter?

I bought and installed one of these on my 1993 SHO ATX after they assured me it would fit even though their application said it would fit all SHO ATX except 1993.

The fittings you need are a part number 202X6 for the atx cooler lines
And it kinda sucks cause it throws your cooler lines to the passenger side another 1/2 inch and bumps them against some metal

Also on the 1993 the fan shroud will have to be modified to fit
So make sure you mount radiator in shroud before installing

Petcock hard to turn too and make sure you flush as I saw slag inside the radiator that flaked off-Made In China!

$116.57 with discount and freight to my door

 

[typhoon5000]

Did you get the ATX fans to fit?

Which motor did you order it for? (since it doesn't offer one for the ATX SHO...)

Doug

Yea, but as wjayg mentioned, it does take some trimming to the shroud, as well as some expletives to shoe-horn it in place. I had to do all of the trimming to the top driver's side corner as the position of the hose spout on the new rad is lower and points farther inboard than the OEM one. The problem is, the attachment tab for the shroud that goes over the stud is right underneath that stub and I had to trim a lot of the structural part of that tab off to make it fit, while preserving the hole for the stud.

I also wasn't able to use the mounting tab on the passenger side of the shroud, as the ****** on the rad wasn't tall enough to line up with the hole, but the mounting tabs that slide into the bottom keep it place pretty well. I'll prob put a zip tie through that hole to make up for the gap and hold it in place.

Doing the ATX line was def the biggest PIA though. Again, as wjayg mentioned, it pushes the fittings farther away from the rad and it was already pretty tight for the lower one before hand. What I ended up doing was removing the A/C lines that run down the inner framer rail (as well as the condenser while I was at it) since my A/C doesn't work and I have no intention on fixing it. I'd rather take the weight reduction. With those lines out of the way, I had more room, but it was still tricky to get the fittings lined up to thread in. I had to bend the lines a bit since the angle is different between the new and old rads.

The wire on mine goes from the top of the radiator to the core support.

I also did this. Mine also came with the wire.

Here's a pic with the adapters and fittings on it to get an idea on how much longer it makes them.

 

[SHOtimer]

I just have my ATX cooler lines plumbed directly to the cooler with rubber hose and bypassed the radiator completely.

You get more fluid flow and better cooling...plus you don't have the deal with those radiator hookups.

Doug

 

[typhoon5000]

I just have my ATX cooler lines plumbed directly to the cooler with rubber hose and bypassed the radiator completely.

You get more fluid flow and better cooling...plus you don't have the deal with those radiator hookups.

Doug

Yea, I prob should have done that. I think this setup is more for warming the trans up faster anyways since the coolant usually warms up faster than the trans oil. If you don't drive it in the winter or states that get cold, then you probably don't need this feature (which I only drive mine in the summer). Oh well, it's all done now.