Please dear Lord, let there be someone out there with ANY idea as to what is happening with my SHO. I own a 94 automatic sho with the 3.2L. The first problem I was having is this, it would fire up but only till it got warm, then it would spit and sputter the die. Sometimes it would fire right back up, other times, not for a day or two. I've replaced the waterpump and while in there, also the cps. Thinking this would slove the problem, I started the car to run coolant through, it ran for about 10 mins then did the same thing........died, I check the fuses and underneath the hood I found a blown 10A fuse for the ACCY FEED. I replaced that and the car fired right up, but only for 2 sec then died again and the fuse was blown AGAIN, changed it one more time with the same results. Please help with any ideas, thanks.
Blowing same fuse time and time again.
- Thread starter zedderr
- Start date
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Storm-Chaser
New Member
Repeatedly blowing the same fuse usually suggests an electrical short-to-ground. I don't have access to an EVTM, so I'm not sure which accessories are powered by this circuit breaker. But the first place to begin - is to begin tracing underhood electrical harnesses to look for any obvious damage. Pay special attention to any harnesses that were moved around, disconnected/reconnected, or could have been pinched while reassembling things during the CPS change.
Get someone else to help monitor your next start/blown fuse attempt. Have them note any changes to the primary instrumentation (tach, water temp, fuel level) and secondary instrumentation (EATC display, radio display, etc.). Erratic operation of any of the above may give you a hint where the problem is located (ie. component or harness).
While they are monitoring from inside, you monitor under-hood. Note which items come-on/cycle when the fuse blows (eg. cooling fan kicks-in, fuse blows, indicates possible CCRM).
I'll try to see what I can dig-up until I can find my EVTM.
Get someone else to help monitor your next start/blown fuse attempt. Have them note any changes to the primary instrumentation (tach, water temp, fuel level) and secondary instrumentation (EATC display, radio display, etc.). Erratic operation of any of the above may give you a hint where the problem is located (ie. component or harness).
While they are monitoring from inside, you monitor under-hood. Note which items come-on/cycle when the fuse blows (eg. cooling fan kicks-in, fuse blows, indicates possible CCRM).
I'll try to see what I can dig-up until I can find my EVTM.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
correct. The relay may be the culprit. The relay is mounted on the radiator support, right behind the driver's headlight assembly. It's a wee little black box that has wires coming out the bottom of it. This may be shorted out. An easy way to check is to pull the harness out of the relay. If it still blows out, it's not the relay or anything downwire from it. Here, look at this schematic:
That should help. Go hunt!
That should help. Go hunt!
93MTXSHO_STUD
New Member
or check the relay. put 12V across the coil and see if it switches. You should here a click. Also check resistance of the coil. Coils vary in resistance but if you get <1 ohm u got a short, if its >100k you got an open.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
For diagnostic purposes, just unplug the relay and the ABS module and see if the fuse quits blowing.
Steve
Steve
