Bearings in Tensioner pully

[Regan]

I Finally finished screwing around with my motor and tranny after two long weeks and going at it. When i first realized my tranny went, i pulled it out, blah blah blah, got a new one on , put it back in....and something wasn't right, the clutch was too tight and it wouldn't engage when it was supposed to. BUt anyways to make a long story short, i pulled it all out again and took the tranny off again, lined it up , and something snapped on the clutch cable, putting it back into place....therefore fixing the proplem that i had with it being to tight. So it's all back in the car now, and i started it for the first time at 6am yesterday morning when i finished it, and i had alot of smoke coming out from the hood. I knew it was rubber, so sure enuf i checked and the power steering belt burnt itself right off. and it's becuase the tensioner pully wasn't moving at all, no rotation, therefore explaining the rubber smell, and the belt flew off the "orbitation" (if thats a word)

Anyways, i took off the tensioner pully and all the bearings went everywhere.....so i may just get a used one. but if anyone knows how that pully is supposed to sit and move properly, let me know, because i don't want anymore problems after all i've been thru this week lol.

Basically i need help finding out how that tension pully works, and what order all the parts go in to install it. And how critical it is?

Thanx guys

 

[Dr.Evil]

well you are best off getting a new one or a good used one.

The tensioner is very critical. To get to it, you need to remove upper, middle, lower timing covers, which requires both acc. belts comming off, and the ballancer.

When putting it back on, make sure that the stud it is attached to is TIGHT so that when you loosen the retaining nut that attaches to it, the nut loosens and not the stud. I made this mistake and it made a big mess. I thought I toasted me new motor.

Do a search for a better description on how to set the tension. But basically you have to loosen the nut, use an allen wrench to pull/swing it out of the way, slide the timing belt into place, and release the allen. Spin the motor over a few times by hand to verify proper operation.

While your in there, I would recommend replacing the timing belt, cam position sensor, water pump and the crank sensor. Preventaive maintance never hurt anything except the wallet.

 

[TYSHO]

He's talking about the tensioners for the accessories, not the timing belt.

As for the accessory tensioners, I had my insert sleeves, or whatever they're called, machined down to accept a new pulley that is always available at local autostores for around $10. Talk about cheap replacements, I can now replace them everytime I change the belts, and not look for overpriced SHO tensioners/bearings.

If you need any info, shoot me a PM. I can give you the measurements, part number, and pics to show a better explanation.

And I thought I'd mention, the two of them are not even the weight of one OEM pulley/bearing assembly.

 

[Shotym]

The bearing is easy to replace but not usually in stock. I am sure Bearing and Transmssion can get it for you. Both idlers use the same bearing, take the good one with you change them both. When I changed them they were about $7 each.

 

[Racer X]

The bearing is easy to replace but not usually in stock. I am sure Bearing and Transmssion can get it for you. Both idlers use the same bearing, take the good one with you change them both. When I changed them they were about $7 each.

Wait, hold up...

You know where to get bearings for the tensioner pulley?! This place have a website?

 

[Regan]

figured it out

Thanx all, but i've figured it out. I just got a used tensioner (both of them) and a new belt cuz it burnt off, and my new solenoid cuz i broke another one (can't over-tighten those buggers)......all for free i might add. The reason the tensioner was hooped was because the way i rapped the rope to the subframe when lifting it back into place. It was rubbing , or pressing rather, very hard against that pulling. Therefore the weight of the hole unit was pushing that pulling on an angle into the motor which bent the **** out of it and screwed it up. But it's all fixed the car is running, breaks are bled hood is painted, hood is on, fluids top, and i gotta test her out tomorrow.

Thanx again.