802SHO 2010 Build

[802SHO]

Dual battery setup is officially complete, and the first start immediately stood out. Cold start came up, then smoothly tapered down to idle with no mini oscillating at all. Once it reached warm idle it stayed steady and composed. I gave it a couple quick throttle blips and it settled instantly and clean, like nothing was even asked of it. That alone told me the foundation is finally where it needs to be.

The system uses a Braille B3121 up front paired with an Odyssey Extreme PC925 in the trunk, tied together with full 1/0 cable. The Braille weighs about 21 lb and handles cranking duty up front, while the PC925 comes in at 25.9 lb in the rear and adds real reserve capacity and buffering. Total system weight is right around 47 lb, but the bigger win is how it’s distributed. Instead of one battery concentrated in a single spot, the weight is split front and rear, which is simply better for balance, stability, and how the car behaves under load, acceleration, and braking.

From an electrical standpoint, the car feels noticeably calmer and more stable. Voltage no longer feels like it’s being stretched thin during transient events. With how far this car is from stock, a single lightweight battery was always living on the edge. This setup finally gives the system the headroom it needs to operate confidently instead of reactively.

I haven’t started tuning on this configuration yet, but I fully expect the benefits to carry into tuning consistency. Stable voltage means cleaner sensor data, more repeatable injector behavior, and fewer corrections during transitions. That doesn’t create power on its own — it creates control, and that’s where real progress comes from.

If these cars “eat batteries,” this one finally feels fed


Used the ZBAD1 magnet mounts. Covered in DEI protective loom. I started on finishing my Rife sensor wire install to the ProLink+ but got stuck inside the interior for a 5V power source. I didn’t want to load up on the TP wire. I found a 5 V regulator from Aeroforce. On the way!

 

[Zpak]

I have a theory about the “eating batteries.” I have a hunch it’s from leaving SCT devices plugged into the OBD2. My ‘14 was the same as everyone reports, two years on the dot. But always I struggled to get them to fail tests when I tried to get them replaced. I got Easton’s and it was right at the 2 year mark. Started all the usual stuff, screen and radio off “to conserve battery” warning, check advance track, all the classics. So I started unplugging the SCT before engine off. It all stopped and still have yet to replace the battery M came to me with.

If anyone experiences the two year battery life and doesn’t have a device that lives in the OBD2 port let me know because I’d like to be proven wrong, Unplugging every time you stop is a pain in the D.

 

[kryptto]

I have a theory about the “eating batteries.” I have a hunch it’s from leaving SCT devices plugged into the OBD2. My ‘14 was the same as everyone reports, two years on the dot. But always I struggled to get them to fail tests when I tried to get them replaced. I got Easton’s and it was right at the 2 year mark. Started all the usual stuff, screen and radio off “to conserve battery” warning, check advance track, all the classics. So I started unplugging the SCT before engine off. It all stopped and still have yet to replace the battery M came to me with.

If anyone experiences the two year battery life and doesn’t have a device that lives in the OBD2 port let me know because I’d like to be proven wrong, Unplugging every time you stop is a pain in the D.

I have always pulled the connector out of the back of the unit when not in use. I am not a typical use case - I only have 28/29K on a 14 and not saying you are wrong in any way since i dont DD the car. It might be a good practice to slide out the connector and plugging it back in during hours out of the car like overnight or 8 hours at work. Just a thought

 

[Majestic]

I have a theory about the “eating batteries.” I have a hunch it’s from leaving SCT devices plugged into the OBD2. My ‘14 was the same as everyone reports, two years on the dot. But always I struggled to get them to fail tests when I tried to get them replaced. I got Easton’s and it was right at the 2 year mark. Started all the usual stuff, screen and radio off “to conserve battery” warning, check advance track, all the classics. So I started unplugging the SCT before engine off. It all stopped and still have yet to replace the battery M came to me with.

If anyone experiences the two year battery life and doesn’t have a device that lives in the OBD2 port let me know because I’d like to be proven wrong, Unplugging every time you stop is a pain in the D.

I never leave anything plugged in and my car will consume a battery in about 3 years like clockwork.

 

[SM105K]

I never leave anything plugged in and my car will consume a battery in about 3 years like clockwork.

3 is better than 2! Do it for Dale!

 

[802SHO]

I’m not a good example I’ve always kept it on a tender mostly ever since the first lightweight battery I had. My last Braille didn’t survive the 4 years it was sitting during the build. I never did keep an SCT device always plugged in. I had an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge that I left plugged in though.

At this point I’m now using 2 tenders

 

[Zpak]

I’m not a good example I’ve always kept it on a tender mostly ever since the first lightweight battery I had. My last Braille didn’t survive the 4 years it was sitting during the build. I never did keep an SCT device always plugged in. I had an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge that I left plugged in though.

At this point I’m now using 2 tendersView attachment 96541View attachment 96540

Yeah much different use case. Sorry to hijack but I’ve been meaning to run that by the group for feedback. M is on a tender now waiting out the winter. It will be interesting to see if that battery survives to spring.

 

[SM105K]

Yeah much different use case. Sorry to hijack but I’ve been meaning to run that by the group for feedback. M is on a tender now waiting out the winter. It will be interesting to see if that battery survives to spring.

I am shocked it has lasted this long to be honest. It has been a year and half ish in a way colder climate for that battery.

 

[802SHO]

Maxx Velocity Turbo Guards in Illusion Purple

 

[802SHO]

Putting this car together relied heavily on copying OEM routing for things. Boost solenoid one of them. I just eliminated about 3ft of hoses for EACH reference — boost and wastegates! This whole car is under review. I’d say the greatest thing to happen is losing power to the TCM bc it’s forced me to reevaluate EVERYTHING!

I’m already doing what I used to hate…wiring. Now I like it. Finally getting this setup correct and efficient one part at a time. What better time — before Ryan starts the real tuning.

Time to move the boost solenoid. Labeled it first before cutting the hoses and harness.
This led me to replace my 2009 Boost solenoid with brand new.
Revised parts! Ford learned from the first iteration. Safe to assume reliability/durability and consistency are what Ford enhanced on this new solenoid.

Crimp/heatshrink/loom + ZBAD1 magnet mounts
Some routing labeled
With these short and sweet hoses and new solenoid this means faster boost response, tighter boost control, more accurate wastegate authority, better transient behavior, more consistent solenoid behavior
— cleaner tuning window.

The TCM got moved to its own switch panel button labeled YEET! And the gauges are all on one switch now. BJB wiring complete and protected
Engine bay no longer has the solenoid on top of the ethanol sensor. Less hoses everywhere
Not done. Fuel pressure regulator is getting its own boost reference from the intake manifold. Fittings on the way. Slowly getting this thing right for the first time

 

[kryptto]

Revised parts! Ford learned from the first iteration. Safe to assume reliability/durability and consistency are what Ford enhanced on this new solenoid.

i have done this when I touch parts in mine, just get the latest OEM to address any fixes, nothing is guaranteed but might be better in the long run for sure.

 

[Deezuz]

I must say I am taken back. I would of never ever thought someone would put this level of fab into this platform. Very ******* nice work.

More pics!

 

[kryptto]

Sometimes we think our knowledge about things others might know and since many people follow 802's threaf I figured I would share. Coming from decades of computers and electronics background I wanted to let people know working on automotive electronics some tips and tricks of my trade that when properly performed make a huge difference.

When performing any method I describe make sure you electrically discharge the cars sysyem. Perform a proper draining of the electrical system.

For electronics degreasing and say oil sprays all over electrical components like the alternator or parts around the engine using a product called CRC Electrical Parts Cleaner - this is safe around charged parts but be cautious it's a degreaser.

Then my go to around say O2 sensors and other parts I would discharge or disconnect I will use DeOxit D5. D for degreaser - deoxitant - de - anything like salt and other corrosives. Great for cleaning bare wires before soldering together to remove oils you might get on the metal wires.

Then there is a non degreaser DeOxit G5 - G for gold is how I recall it. For sensitve electronics like the components in the fuses and say the plugs for our screen connectors, the G product has a corrosion preventor and protector where the D - degreaser is a removal and cleaner.

So after writing this I thought let Gemini AI describe it for ya made my life easier lol...


DeoxIT D5 (Red) is widely considered the gold standard for automotive electrical maintenance and restoration. Because cars are subject to extreme temperature swings, humidity, and road salt, their electrical connectors are prone to the "fretting corrosion" and heavy oxidation that D5 is specifically designed to dissolve.
Common Automotive Applications
Wiring Harness Connectors: Great for multi-pin plugs that have developed high resistance.
Sensor Leads: Useful for O2 sensors, MAF sensors, and throttle body connectors where signal integrity is critical.
Grounding Points: Ideal for cleaning chassis grounds that have developed surface rust or grime.
Fuse Boxes: Can be used to clean the tabs of blade fuses and the sockets they sit in.
Battery Terminals: While D5 works, it is often better to use a dedicated terminal cleaner for heavy lead-acid corrosion, following up with D5 to seal the connection.
Safety and Best Practices
While D5 is highly effective, it requires specific handling to ensure you don't damage sensitive components or cause a short circuit.
1. Power Down the System
Always disconnect the battery or ensure the specific circuit is unpowered before spraying. While DeoxIT is non-conductive once dry, the liquid solvent can temporarily create a path for current or cause a spark in a high-voltage environment.
2. Plastic and Rubber Compatibility
DeoxIT D5 is generally "plastic safe," but "safe" is a relative term in the automotive world.
Check the Material: It is safe for most modern automotive plastics (like Nylon or PBT).
Avoid Sensitive Plastics: Be cautious around clear plastics (instrument clusters), older vintage plastics, or specific elastomers that might swell.
The Wipe-Off Rule: D5 is meant to be a cleaner, not a bath. Spray it on, work the connector (plug and unplug a few times), and then wipe away the excess. Leaving a puddle of solvent in a plastic housing is rarely a good idea.
3. Flammability and Evaporation
D5 contains a flammable propellant and solvent.
Ventilation: Use it in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling vapors.
Flash-off Time: Allow the solvent to evaporate completely (usually 2–5 minutes) before reconnecting power or starting the engine.
4. Avoid "Over-Spraying"
Automotive sensors, particularly Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensors or Oxygen (O2) sensors, are extremely sensitive.
Never spray D5 directly onto the internal "hot wire" of a MAF sensor; use a dedicated MAF cleaner for that.
Use D5 only on the external electrical connector pins, not the sensing element itself.
Technical Tip: The "Work It In" Method
For the best results on a stubborn automotive connector:
Disconnect the plug.
Give a short burst of D5 onto the pins.
Connect and disconnect the plug 5–10 times. This mechanical action combined with the chemical cleaner "scrubs" the metal surfaces.
Wipe away the black/green residue that comes off.
Perform a final light mist for protection and reconnect.


G5:

While DeoxIT D5 is the "cleaner" for fixing problems, DeoxIT Gold G5 is the "shield" for preventing them. In an automotive environment, it’s best used on high-value, sensitive electronic connections rather than heavy-duty chassis parts.
Here is a list of ways you can use Gold G5 for your vehicle:
ECU and PCM Pins: After cleaning the main engine control unit pins, a light coat of G5 ensures the best possible signal for the thousands of micro-adjustments your car makes every second.
Gold-Plated Connectors: Many modern high-end sensors and airbag connectors use gold plating to prevent corrosion. D5 can be too aggressive for these; G5 is specifically designed to maintain that thin plating.
Audio and Infotainment: If you’ve upgraded your sound system, use G5 on the RCA jacks, head unit harnesses, and amplifier terminals to keep the signal path clear and noise-free.
Key Fob Battery Contacts: A tiny drop on the battery contact points in your key fob can prevent the common "low battery" warnings caused by simple surface resistance rather than a dead battery.
Sensor Signal Integrity: Use it on the pins of sensitive sensors (like your MAP or Crankshaft Position sensors) where even a tiny change in resistance can lead to rough idling or "ghost" error codes.
Diagnostic Port (OBD-II): If you frequently use a scanner or tuning device, G5 keeps the pins on your OBD-II port from wearing down and ensures a reliable data connection every time you plug in.
Safety & Best Practices
The Two-Step Rule: For older, dirty connections, always use D5 first to strip the oxidation, wipe it clean, and then apply G5 as the final long-term sealant.
Avoid Over-Application: Automotive connectors are often crowded. Use a precision straw or a lint-free swab to apply G5 only to the metal pins to avoid attracting road dust to the surrounding plastic.
Dielectric Grease vs. G5: Remember that G5 is for the metal-to-metal contact point itself to improve conductivity. Dielectric grease is for the rubber seal around the connector to keep moisture out. Don't swap their roles!

Hope this helps others.

 

[6500rpm]

Sometimes we think our knowledge about things others might know and since many people follow 802's threaf I figured I would share. Coming from decades of computers and electronics background I wanted to let people know working on automotive electronics some tips and tricks of my trade that when properly performed make a huge difference.

When performing any method I describe make sure you electrically discharge the cars sysyem. Perform a proper draining of the electrical system.

For electronics degreasing and say oil sprays all over electrical components like the alternator or parts around the engine using a product called CRC Electrical Parts Cleaner - this is safe around charged parts but be cautious it's a degreaser.

Then my go to around say O2 sensors and other parts I would discharge or disconnect I will use DeOxit D5. D for degreaser - deoxitant - de - anything like salt and other corrosives. Great for cleaning bare wires before soldering together to remove oils you might get on the metal wires.

Then there is a non degreaser DeOxit G5 - G for gold is how I recall it. For sensitve electronics like the components in the fuses and say the plugs for our screen connectors, the G product has a corrosion preventor and protector where the D - degreaser is a removal and cleaner.

So after writing this I thought let Gemini AI describe it for ya made my life easier lol...


DeoxIT D5 (Red) is widely considered the gold standard for automotive electrical maintenance and restoration. Because cars are subject to extreme temperature swings, humidity, and road salt, their electrical connectors are prone to the "fretting corrosion" and heavy oxidation that D5 is specifically designed to dissolve.
Common Automotive Applications
Wiring Harness Connectors: Great for multi-pin plugs that have developed high resistance.
Sensor Leads: Useful for O2 sensors, MAF sensors, and throttle body connectors where signal integrity is critical.
Grounding Points: Ideal for cleaning chassis grounds that have developed surface rust or grime.
Fuse Boxes: Can be used to clean the tabs of blade fuses and the sockets they sit in.
Battery Terminals: While D5 works, it is often better to use a dedicated terminal cleaner for heavy lead-acid corrosion, following up with D5 to seal the connection.
Safety and Best Practices
While D5 is highly effective, it requires specific handling to ensure you don't damage sensitive components or cause a short circuit.
1. Power Down the System
Always disconnect the battery or ensure the specific circuit is unpowered before spraying. While DeoxIT is non-conductive once dry, the liquid solvent can temporarily create a path for current or cause a spark in a high-voltage environment.
2. Plastic and Rubber Compatibility
DeoxIT D5 is generally "plastic safe," but "safe" is a relative term in the automotive world.
Check the Material: It is safe for most modern automotive plastics (like Nylon or PBT).
Avoid Sensitive Plastics: Be cautious around clear plastics (instrument clusters), older vintage plastics, or specific elastomers that might swell.
The Wipe-Off Rule: D5 is meant to be a cleaner, not a bath. Spray it on, work the connector (plug and unplug a few times), and then wipe away the excess. Leaving a puddle of solvent in a plastic housing is rarely a good idea.
3. Flammability and Evaporation
D5 contains a flammable propellant and solvent.
Ventilation: Use it in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling vapors.
Flash-off Time: Allow the solvent to evaporate completely (usually 2–5 minutes) before reconnecting power or starting the engine.
4. Avoid "Over-Spraying"
Automotive sensors, particularly Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensors or Oxygen (O2) sensors, are extremely sensitive.
Never spray D5 directly onto the internal "hot wire" of a MAF sensor; use a dedicated MAF cleaner for that.
Use D5 only on the external electrical connector pins, not the sensing element itself.
Technical Tip: The "Work It In" Method
For the best results on a stubborn automotive connector:
Disconnect the plug.
Give a short burst of D5 onto the pins.
Connect and disconnect the plug 5–10 times. This mechanical action combined with the chemical cleaner "scrubs" the metal surfaces.
Wipe away the black/green residue that comes off.
Perform a final light mist for protection and reconnect.


G5:

While DeoxIT D5 is the "cleaner" for fixing problems, DeoxIT Gold G5 is the "shield" for preventing them. In an automotive environment, it’s best used on high-value, sensitive electronic connections rather than heavy-duty chassis parts.
Here is a list of ways you can use Gold G5 for your vehicle:
ECU and PCM Pins: After cleaning the main engine control unit pins, a light coat of G5 ensures the best possible signal for the thousands of micro-adjustments your car makes every second.
Gold-Plated Connectors: Many modern high-end sensors and airbag connectors use gold plating to prevent corrosion. D5 can be too aggressive for these; G5 is specifically designed to maintain that thin plating.
Audio and Infotainment: If you’ve upgraded your sound system, use G5 on the RCA jacks, head unit harnesses, and amplifier terminals to keep the signal path clear and noise-free.
Key Fob Battery Contacts: A tiny drop on the battery contact points in your key fob can prevent the common "low battery" warnings caused by simple surface resistance rather than a dead battery.
Sensor Signal Integrity: Use it on the pins of sensitive sensors (like your MAP or Crankshaft Position sensors) where even a tiny change in resistance can lead to rough idling or "ghost" error codes.
Diagnostic Port (OBD-II): If you frequently use a scanner or tuning device, G5 keeps the pins on your OBD-II port from wearing down and ensures a reliable data connection every time you plug in.
Safety & Best Practices
The Two-Step Rule: For older, dirty connections, always use D5 first to strip the oxidation, wipe it clean, and then apply G5 as the final long-term sealant.
Avoid Over-Application: Automotive connectors are often crowded. Use a precision straw or a lint-free swab to apply G5 only to the metal pins to avoid attracting road dust to the surrounding plastic.
Dielectric Grease vs. G5: Remember that G5 is for the metal-to-metal contact point itself to improve conductivity. Dielectric grease is for the rubber seal around the connector to keep moisture out. Don't swap their roles!

Hope this helps others.

Coming from an automotive background, do any of these products help with fretting? Unless vehicles have fairly severe oil leaks it's fairly uncommon that I see issues with oil, conversely I have seen a fair amount of terminal fretting issues through the years. Additionally, what's your take on the use of di electric grease and it's application?

 

[kryptto]

Coming from an automotive background, do any of these products help with fretting? Unless vehicles have fairly severe oil leaks it's fairly uncommon that I see issues with oil, conversely I have seen a fair amount of terminal fretting issues through the years. Additionally, what's your take on the use of di electric grease and it's application?

ok yes you bring up a great point, our cars are big issues with fretting in general. for those who might not know between heat/cold contraction and degradation high vibrations turn to micro vibrations at a connector level as well as wires fraying. the G5 - gold is a "protectant" and does NOT get in the way of conductivity. in the areas like our steering racks... holy crapola disconnect the electrical connector and spray down the connector pins and terminal. same for the throttle body and those P0087 I think it is codes when I hear about the fuel pressure issues can easily be fretting. Our PCM is in the engine compartment.... holy cow perfect for spraying with G5. its a protectant and positive connectivity product. any time you unclip shitz under the hood.... spray it with G5, not much just a spritz makes a difference. I use this on ALL computer parts, like ALL the time. those super tiny ribbon connectors in stereo receivers, or laptops, or the tiny pin connectors on laptops. If I move a pin jumper on the motherboard, spritz and push short connector back on.

If you have corrosion, a spray of D5 to break up corrosion, and seal and protect with G5, done.... worth the piece of mind especially u folks in salt..... holy shitz use it. make it a habit, disconnect under the hood electronics.... D5 to remove corrosion and G5 to seal and put back together.

SO dielectric, for any peeps that dont know, I try and never assume, its an INSULATOR. Unlike G5 its NOT a conductor, and needs to be used "carefully". in an area like spark plug boots - necessary for keeping dust water and other contaminants out, and because of the super tight grip of the spark plug generally people can be a little sloppy and apply too much and not cause issues... but it can. I would NOT use G5 on a spark plug connector. Follow proper replacement and use dielectric sparingly. NOW on connectors its an insulator and protector, so yes use it on "booted" type connectors to keep dust / moisture and salt out. G5 is the product use spray on the connector surfaces, in a couple of minutes it dries and reconnect.

So when i remove say the TB connector, I spray a small D5, do work, spray G5, reattach clip. In that instance no dielectric use in areas exposed to water heavily, more under the car. The G5 will seal the connector and those 5v connectors are the ones I strongly use and suggest G5.

Hope this helps.