1993 3.2l SHO badly failed emissions.

[luigisho]

Could be a little related. The intake as rubydist said does get funky from many things and egr probably contributes plenty as it recirculates stuff.

Is that part of the IAC? The gasket area looks the same.

If your intake manifold is off, clean out the egr port with pipe cleaners or something to make sure it's not clogged up. also the other egr stuff and everything else is easier to get to so check those parts if you can. zoomlater is correct, try dan his forum name is like svhodan or sv&hodan or something like that. You can find him posting in parts sections plenty.

 

[rubydist]

iirc, that piece circulates coolant in the area of the iac to help prevent icing during cold weather.

 

[Ksoder]

Hello, so since my last update, I have completely cleaned out to the inside of my intake manifold, and replace my valve cover gaskets along with the spark plug seals, I've also gone ahead and put some new spark plug wires in and some new spark plugs, the back three cylinders (in the spark plug wells) were completely full of oil to the point where I couldn't see the spark plugs, so I'm hoping that was some of the problem. I have also been replacing all of the rubber hoses that hold my intake manifold together, and my EGR valve and my EGR pressure sensor are both on their way. So I'm hoping that I will have better luck with emissions coming up here. Also, my cam timing is correct (i checked)




I have a new question now, if I live in a climate where freezing is never an issue, Phoenix Arizona, do I need to worry about actually fixing that little block that keep stuff from freezing over, or can I just bypass it and put a connector between the two hoses that run into it?

Also, see attached picture, this part of my intake manifold had a small grey box on it with two connectors, and a little divot in the actual pipe that was full of what I assume is Dielectric grease, my first question is was that actually Dielectric grease or what else do I put in that little hole before I put the box back on, and why does it have to have this divot into my manifold?


Thank you all for your help guys, I really appreciate it!

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[SHOMON]

The divot is supposed to be there. The gray box is the ignition control module it needs thermal heatsink paste on it to help keep it cool. Not Dielectric grease.

 

[rubydist]

the heatsink paste is vital to the survival of the DIS.

 

[SHOCH]

Threads like this warm my heart, this forum still rocks, just had to say it.

 

[luigisho]

And in case there is any confusion, the heatsink paste does not only go in the divot but across the entire contact area of the back of the DIS module. Keep the heat away from the electronics. I hope the new ignition stuff clears everything up. Post the results.

Make sure the couplers on the intake manifold are a little loose when you put it back on the heads. There is at least a little flex you want in the middle so the manifold surfaces seat flush on the mating surface and then snug it up.

 

[sperold]

Removing the oil from the spark plug wells will go a long way towards solving your issues.

Good work on your part.

 

[Ksoder]

Thank you all for the more help and not letting me fry my electronics haha...


Im hoping/thinking that sometime Monday will be the day we try for emissions again, is there ANY other preparations you all recommend I do? Im just trying to save a SHO and get it back on the road

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[zoomlater]

Clear your codes and then run the car a bit and pull your codes again to see if anything pops up

 

[sperold]

I would pull the spout.

I did it for years on the dynomometer test, because it is the most difficult one to pass.

Where I am, the first test was X dollars, and 2 tests after that were half price.

Then there was a diagnostic fee that got you a conditional pass, but it ran out after a number of years and the car was declared un-road-worthy.

Then they went to the 2 speed tailpipe sniffer. It involved using your OBD information from your own car.

Then the testing was free.

Then they eliminated all testing and removed the "clean air" program.

Hopefully, you are on the first step of this sequence that seems to repeat itself all over the continent, but good luck for now.

 

[luigisho]

I would agree with pulling the SPOUT if your numbers were close. Have to see what the numbers are. It's something you would have to do before you get there.

I think there may be a test that might not perform correctly with the spout connector pulled, but that is something I might have read briefly and I can't speak to it with any knowledge. Hopefully someone with more experience on the different emission test procedures can post to whether that is correct and which test if any.

I'm not that familiar with the different tests as I have not had emissions testing in my area since I moved here many years ago. I understand the numbers and potential causes but not the various tests and equipment used in different parts of the country/NA included for our canuckleheaded friends in the great white north.

 

[zak]

Are the converters aftermarket, or did the previous owner hollow out the catalytic converters.
One other possibility is that the thermostat isn't closing all the way, letting the engine run cool and therefore rich (still in warmup mode). This won't always set a code.

When driving the the inspection station leave it in second gear and get the converters nice and hot - with a pulled spout connector (shorting bar, the grey plug near the EEC code reader plug) that usually gets the job done when running aftermarket converters, which try to get away with as little platinum / precious metal as possible.

 

[Ksoder]

I'm about to put my intake manifold back on, what torque spec do the bolts get?

Also, (i know I should've taken a picture first or something, but what spark plug wire goes to which spark plug?)

Thanks

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[zoomlater]

these diagrams should help for plug wires, there is a cheat sheet showing torque numbers, let me see if I can find it

 

[zoomlater]

I printed this out awhile ago, but don't remember who put it together

 

[Ksoder]

these diagrams should help for plug wires, there is a cheat sheet showing torque numbers, let me see if I can find it

Thank you so much for these diagrams, they were perfect...





Alright ladies and gentlemen, tomorrows the big day... I just finished getting the car put back together (11:30PM) and it started right up! It smoked pretty bad because of the oil from my spark plug wells going into my cylinders when I was replacing my spark plugs but it cleared up after a minute or so... But I really do want to thank all of you guys for your support and help thus far... I honestly don't know what point id be at without all of the helpful tips... You all rock!

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[Izanetti]

Ksoder, Would U like another >93 SHO without those problems but a leaky trani seal???

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Boy, where to start:

http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Emissions_testing_and_diagnosis

Circuit diagrams for a '94, close enough to a '93:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/myo3t2xqcxeeu1k/AAAonP98XEPMZOuwjB_jUEQFa?dl=0

EVR Solenoid bolted to the firewall on 'ATX Engine Controls P1'. Vacuum lines go to the EGR valve and the PFE sensor bolted to the back of the intake ('ATX Engine Controls P3').

However, the code 332 is a mechanical problem not an electrical one. You would get a different code for that.

For the ATX, I recommend the Bosch 15716 O2 sensors. Old ones make the car run rich.

Take the vacuum line off the EGR valve and attach another tube to the valve. Suck on it. You should hear the valve opening and closing. If not, replace. Start the engine and suck on the tube again. The engine revs should drop. If not, the nostrils in the intake behind the throttle body are blocked. The lower two nostrils: the upper two or for the Idle Air solenoid behind the TB.

Plus all the other suggestions in other posts.

 

[Ksoder]

Wish me luck!

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