SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
Correct me if im wrong, LOUD tapping at 2500-3000 rpm with no load... Am i ne need of some new bearings? i think so... 89 with 29X *** km's let me know please.
*Cringe* I think i need rod bearings
- Thread starter SHO_DOODmorrris
- Start date
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SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
sigh i new it would come sooner or later. is there enything else i should replace "while im in there"?? thanks
-mitch
-mitch
00tec-saTX
New Member
Sorry for the hijack, but to anyone that has done the RBs, how long does it typically take? I've never been in the bottom of a motor, but I'm fairly good as a shadetree mechanic.
Guessing by looking at the writeup on shophoenixproject, I was guessing 5 hours or so.
Guessing by looking at the writeup on shophoenixproject, I was guessing 5 hours or so.
RAYJAY
WHO ME ?
was the y pipe ever off ???? spray the bolts a couple of days before you do the bearings
I usually takes me 6-8 hrs to do the rod bearings with no problems with the y-pipe.......
( its one job I never rush doing )
seal the oil pan and let it sit over night for the silicone dry before I add oil
00tec-saTX
New Member
Probably not.... I haven't been under it to look (it's 600 miles away). It's a Florida/South Carolina Car so I don't think rust is going to be that much of an issue.
My dilema is, I have to drive there (to Pensacola from east Texas), replace the bearings, and drive it back, and I only have 2 days to do so. It's gonna be a great day :woohoo:
93rev2sev
SHO Member
2 days should be plenty of time. Get the y-pipe and the starter off and the rest is easy.
Make sure you have a 1/4" and 3/8" universal adapters...one of the oilpan bolts is tough to get at.
Make sure you have a 1/4" and 3/8" universal adapters...one of the oilpan bolts is tough to get at.
revhardSHO
SHO Member
You'll want to make sure its not valve noise or a loose tensioner. Identify and locate the source of the noise before your jump in.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
If the car has 290,000+ miles...it needs rod bearings. New rod bearings might not quiet the engine completely, but with that kind of milage...there's no question.
You need to swap those bearings out.
You need to swap those bearings out.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
not 290 000 miles KILOMETERS fyi but yeah im in mechanics next nemester so i may as well do them while im upgrading the whole car s it will be my daily driver all summer and next first semeseter. ty guys.
SHO#7
SHO Member
We will all send positive thoughts that you did not damge the crank. I have been lucky on some customer cars, that were knocking bad, and saved with just bearings.
Others have not.
Mike
Others have not.
Mike
93rev2sev
SHO Member
For $60, it's worth it to find out.
Don't forget to use plastigage on the OLD bearings...then the new ones...This way you will have a better picture of how much has worn...
...some will say that you risk breaking a rod bolt by doing this and actually...I would agree with them. For that reason, please read this...
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/t...258_rod_bolt_torquing_stretch_info/index.html
Edit: I'll quote the important part...
When you’re using a torque wrench alone, the rod-bolt manufacturer’s **** (or another specified lubricant) should always be used. With other ****, your torque readings of say, 50 lbs-ft may match the manufacturer’s, but since the friction coefficient of the two different lubricants probably doesn’t match, the bolt’s stretch may not be on spec, regardless of the torque reading. View Related Article
To summarize(without innuendo):
I think some people like to get their nut/bolt nice and clean before torquing it. You need to have the threads well oiled for the final torquing. BUT If you want to measure your old bearing with plastiguage, don't forget to oil the bolt, and only torque it to the lowest spec, once. This way, you will not fatigue the bolt, but you will still have it tight enough to squish the plastiguage.
If a caliper guage isn't handy...Plastigaging your old bearings, in addition to the new ones, will aide in determining how much your crank has worn. In a matter of 5 minutes, I was able to tell that my crank was still within spec. By platiguaging the old bearing, I was also able to see if there were grooves on the crank (post-op), because I had an impression of the crank on the old bearing. If a crank is questionable(bearing show lots of copper...or worse), this method will allow you to examine the impression of the crank under magnification (decent magnifying glass...im not talking about an electron microthingy) and good light.
So(I know...I already summarized), there's lots of reasons to plastigage the old bearings, especially if the crank is questionable. Just make sure you **** the threads...every time. This way the bolt will stretch, not twist...and get hurt.
Don't forget to use plastigage on the OLD bearings...then the new ones...This way you will have a better picture of how much has worn...
...some will say that you risk breaking a rod bolt by doing this and actually...I would agree with them. For that reason, please read this...
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/t...258_rod_bolt_torquing_stretch_info/index.html
Edit: I'll quote the important part...
When you’re using a torque wrench alone, the rod-bolt manufacturer’s **** (or another specified lubricant) should always be used. With other ****, your torque readings of say, 50 lbs-ft may match the manufacturer’s, but since the friction coefficient of the two different lubricants probably doesn’t match, the bolt’s stretch may not be on spec, regardless of the torque reading. View Related Article
To summarize(without innuendo):
I think some people like to get their nut/bolt nice and clean before torquing it. You need to have the threads well oiled for the final torquing. BUT If you want to measure your old bearing with plastiguage, don't forget to oil the bolt, and only torque it to the lowest spec, once. This way, you will not fatigue the bolt, but you will still have it tight enough to squish the plastiguage.
If a caliper guage isn't handy...Plastigaging your old bearings, in addition to the new ones, will aide in determining how much your crank has worn. In a matter of 5 minutes, I was able to tell that my crank was still within spec. By platiguaging the old bearing, I was also able to see if there were grooves on the crank (post-op), because I had an impression of the crank on the old bearing. If a crank is questionable(bearing show lots of copper...or worse), this method will allow you to examine the impression of the crank under magnification (decent magnifying glass...im not talking about an electron microthingy) and good light.
So(I know...I already summarized), there's lots of reasons to plastigage the old bearings, especially if the crank is questionable. Just make sure you **** the threads...every time. This way the bolt will stretch, not twist...and get hurt.
Last edited:
Another point of view: Then I would not bother with the extra step of Plastigage measuring the old bearing clearance. Just put the new ones in and be done with it. The primary purpose of plastigage is to verify bearing to crank journal clearance when the crank has been reworked by a machine shop. It is impossible for your crank to have worn down enough on its own to require an oversize bearing, so the only viable option is to just put in the standard bearings and go. If you see abnormal wear on the crank journals, then that's a whole different ballgame.
Make sure you have an oil pan gasket set on hand. Use black sensor safe RTV. Leave the oil drain plug out to help air circulate inside the pan so the RTV can cure overnight. I did one rod at a time so there was no possibility of getting parts mixed up.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Good point ITWonder.
However, the bearing size or part number will be stamped and visible on the old bearing, so the best reason to Plastigage(at least one of the old ones), is to get an impression of the crank. It won't take long at all, and eventhough it's optional, it might be fun to look at a "negative" of your crank.
The single most important step to rod bearings is to **** the threads when you torque down the caps. This is NOT optional.
However, the bearing size or part number will be stamped and visible on the old bearing, so the best reason to Plastigage(at least one of the old ones), is to get an impression of the crank. It won't take long at all, and eventhough it's optional, it might be fun to look at a "negative" of your crank.
The single most important step to rod bearings is to **** the threads when you torque down the caps. This is NOT optional.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
6 hours?? My first time took me about 4, and the second time (bought the car with a spun bearing, figured it might be worth a shot) took less than that. I'm about to get in there and do em again, and I doubt it'll even take me that long.
and that included a thorough cleaning of the pan, laying on my back in the driveway.
A quick tip would be to use a rubber hammer handle to push the piston up into the cylinder the con rod doesn't wanna let go of the crankshaft...but be gentle.
and that included a thorough cleaning of the pan, laying on my back in the driveway.
A quick tip would be to use a rubber hammer handle to push the piston up into the cylinder the con rod doesn't wanna let go of the crankshaft...but be gentle.
RAYJAY
WHO ME ?
like I said I'm a machinist so doing anything like that I take my time. like the last set i did I had a bad set of rod bearings the lock was not crimped right the caps did not torque down right.because I triple check everything (yes I"M **** ) I found it and used a different bearing. with me its the quality of the work
Jeff
Jeff
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Electricat
New Member
I agree with this. When I tore into my SHO for suspected rod bearing problems, I was going to PlastiGage everything. Then I thought about it: what am I going to do if I find crank wear?? Answer: The exact same thing as if I didn't PlastiGage....put in the new bearings and hope for the best. :laugh_ti:
I also figured that an extra install/removal of the rod bolts couldn't be good for them. Plus, the fact that I was working outdoors during December made any possible way to save time look like a good idea!
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