In direct contrast a tune sent to me from GH when I bought their Gen3 turbos and intercooler. Didn’t ask what I had for mods or anything. I don’t have the slightest clue what this tune would be commanding before trying it. Of which I never did. 
So what did you do to your SHO today!?
- Thread starter LongNap
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
RickyRecon
SHO Member
Suspension overhaul.
Installed the new shocks and H&Rs a couple weeks ago. Before that I decided I wanted to go ahead and replace the rear LCAs at the same time since I’d already be messing with it. I was also due for new rear swaybar links, and well…things kind of snowballed, and I wound up ordering parts to replace the entire suspension lol. Upper and lower CAs, tierods and ends, trailing arms, toe links, front/rear swaybar bushings/links…all of it.
Did the shocks/struts, and rear LCAs first, and gave it some time (~500mi) to settle before doing the rest of the work. Everything is OEM except for the front LCAs, and tie rod ends. Giving the mevotech TTX a shot with those. If they work out I may replace the front and rear endlinks with them as well since the ball joints on the TTX stuff are…beefy (and greasable).
To illustrate beefiness:
Everything came out, and went in pretty smoothly. I wasn’t looking forward to the rear upper control arms because of those expertly oriented forward bolts (thanks FoMoCo), but it wasn’t too bad. Just loosened the subframe enough to get clearance by prying down on it a little. Honestly the biggest PITA was getting the new tie rod boots seated on the rack. Those bastards about took my damn lunch money lol.
Had it lined up the other day, and after what settling has occurred, this is where it’s sitting WITHOUT the camber bolts installed in the rear, and with the arrows on the mounts pointed outboard:
Camber is sitting pretty good as is. I think it’ll work well with how heavy the car is/how it gets driven. The toe in should complement the camber. A majority of my driving takes place on the Northwest Indiana autobahn (aka the toll road) these days so that translates to higher average speeds, and a fair amount of twists for Indiana. Though as we all know toe can be a little tricker to dial in from vehicle to vehicle due to variables. I bumped the cold psi on the tires to 37, and have pushed it while straight, and through various twisties. Everything “feels right” while driving under various conditions, so I’ll just see what the tires look like at the next oil change to get a better sense if I need to tweak anything.
Overall really happy with the results. Handling improved substantially with just the new shocks/springs alone, but now with everything else being new too, it feels very tight, and planted. Definitely doesn’t feel like a 4300+lb boat anymore. Ride quality hasn’t suffered much. Way more feedback from the road, but I wouldn’t call it harsh. Obviously it handles curves/corners much better with the wildly reduced body roll, but also the weight transfer to the rear under hard acceleration is dramatically improved…especially when giving it the beans while already cruising. Just kind of squats down a bit, and goes now. Things most of you already know, but for anyone on the fence about lowering, pull the trigger. It’s worth it.
Obligatory side view:
Installed the new shocks and H&Rs a couple weeks ago. Before that I decided I wanted to go ahead and replace the rear LCAs at the same time since I’d already be messing with it. I was also due for new rear swaybar links, and well…things kind of snowballed, and I wound up ordering parts to replace the entire suspension lol. Upper and lower CAs, tierods and ends, trailing arms, toe links, front/rear swaybar bushings/links…all of it.
Did the shocks/struts, and rear LCAs first, and gave it some time (~500mi) to settle before doing the rest of the work. Everything is OEM except for the front LCAs, and tie rod ends. Giving the mevotech TTX a shot with those. If they work out I may replace the front and rear endlinks with them as well since the ball joints on the TTX stuff are…beefy (and greasable).
To illustrate beefiness:
Everything came out, and went in pretty smoothly. I wasn’t looking forward to the rear upper control arms because of those expertly oriented forward bolts (thanks FoMoCo), but it wasn’t too bad. Just loosened the subframe enough to get clearance by prying down on it a little. Honestly the biggest PITA was getting the new tie rod boots seated on the rack. Those bastards about took my damn lunch money lol.
Had it lined up the other day, and after what settling has occurred, this is where it’s sitting WITHOUT the camber bolts installed in the rear, and with the arrows on the mounts pointed outboard:
Camber is sitting pretty good as is. I think it’ll work well with how heavy the car is/how it gets driven. The toe in should complement the camber. A majority of my driving takes place on the Northwest Indiana autobahn (aka the toll road) these days so that translates to higher average speeds, and a fair amount of twists for Indiana. Though as we all know toe can be a little tricker to dial in from vehicle to vehicle due to variables. I bumped the cold psi on the tires to 37, and have pushed it while straight, and through various twisties. Everything “feels right” while driving under various conditions, so I’ll just see what the tires look like at the next oil change to get a better sense if I need to tweak anything.
Overall really happy with the results. Handling improved substantially with just the new shocks/springs alone, but now with everything else being new too, it feels very tight, and planted. Definitely doesn’t feel like a 4300+lb boat anymore. Ride quality hasn’t suffered much. Way more feedback from the road, but I wouldn’t call it harsh. Obviously it handles curves/corners much better with the wildly reduced body roll, but also the weight transfer to the rear under hard acceleration is dramatically improved…especially when giving it the beans while already cruising. Just kind of squats down a bit, and goes now. Things most of you already know, but for anyone on the fence about lowering, pull the trigger. It’s worth it.
Obligatory side view:
Last edited:
You don't have how many miles, however if yiu are 100K it's the best thing especially if you live with salted roads. The mevo ttx looks like the brand to go to, their stuff looks like it exceeds the manuf quality for sure. Nice job she looks great too.
chris9595
Member
Pep Boys is changing my lower control arms after the parts arrive. I have a '92 SHO. Do you recommend a new alignment to be done? They did my alignments before.
RickyRecon
SHO Member
I would. Rule of thumb is any time suspension components are replaced, an alignment needs to be done. In fact, given that they perform alignments there, it would be highly irregular for an alignment to not be included in whatever price you were quoted for the work.
Joshw0000
SHO Member
Yes, I drove mine straight to the stop for an alignment after installation.
Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk
I was always taught to align after making suspension changes, otherwise you pay for it in tires and new suspension abuse, the items I just fixed.
Joshw0000
SHO Member
I partially installed a Wolfbox G850 Pro today. The WolfBox USB wiring kit I bought doesn't work. It would boot up for a few seconds and turn back off ONLY when I removed and inserted the fuse. Any other time it wouldn't power on at all. After hours of checking fuses and voltage, I read the specs for the camera and the power adapter. The camera requires 5V and the OEM power adapter provides 3V. How stupid!!!
A 5V aftermarket power adapter should deliver Tuesday so I can finish the install.
Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk
A 5V aftermarket power adapter should deliver Tuesday so I can finish the install.
Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk
Haha
chris9595
Member
Ok... thanks
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Full detail and started the chrome delete process. The weather was not in my favor. Cold and rainy for the wash and warm and windy for vinyl and plasti dip. Only day I had to do it so I tried, might start over another day. I dipped the trunklid bar and vinyled the window trim. Ran out of vinyl so only one side is (almost) done lol
Very fn nice...
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Anyone else's window trim loose and crooked? Honestly you can't tell from a distance but if you're close enough to see bubbles in the vinyl you can see they're raised in areas and won't "click" back down. Annoying
Mine dis the same..... Unfortunately
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
I mean it's a Taurus not a Rolls-Royce but still
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Finished it. I like the touch of chrome here and there so I'm going to leave the badges and grille surround. Smoking the headlights this weekend so maybe if the film is decent I'll try smoking the grille
Looks like mine now and love it.
BTW I have partially blacked out SHO badges - I made the editorial decision for PI blacked out ones.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Pics?
I will tomorrow.
Similar threads
