What Mazda Trans will work with the gen 3?

[venom]

The countour pedal set can be carved up and added to the SHO pedal set. You essentially need to cut the left side of the Contour pedal set off and weld it on the left side of the SHO pedal set. Then some hardware and bushings and you can extend the bolt through the added Contour brake pedal.

Another option is to take a gen 2 pedal set from a MTX and modify it to hold the clutch master cylinder. I am told that the gen 2 pedal set just bolts up. Regardless the fuse box needs its position adjusted to allow space for the clutch pedal.

Hope that helps.

 

[KickerBeast]

Thanks, I'm going to try to use the Gen 2 if I can. I've been looking at your pics. They are great. Do you have any pics or can you take some of how you made the trans mount work. It sounds like you had to cut off the stock trans mount and weld another on, but you don't have any pics of that. If you could take some, I would really appreciate it. I am going to start getting parts together for this. I have to wait until my bike sells to be able to get the trans, but i'm going to start getting other things.

Thanks again for the great info and writeup.

 

[KickerBeast]

Where did you find your trans and what was the cost? I have been looking around and I haven't been able to find anything. Not a single one on ebay.

 

[venom]

Where did you find your trans and what was the cost? I have been looking around and I haven't been able to find anything. Not a single one on ebay.

I got my MTX at a salvage yard for $450, they even kept the stock clutch and flywheel for me for fitment testing.

Search www.car-part.com for the 2004 Mazda 6 manual transmission (interchange search will search across other applicable model years), no one refers to these things as the A65M-R tranny so don't other searching that way... Ask for the Flywheel as well at a minimum. You will need the shifter and cables as well, which getting the cables from a yard is tough as they normally cut all that stuff to pull the driveline (this often includes the axles as well BTW). IF you find someone who hasn't removed the driveline yet then you can probably strike a deal for them to pull the cables for you and you may be able to talk axles too.

Last but not least you'll need the axles for at east the inner splines, maybe more depending on your approach.

For a clutch, pick anything that works with the Mazda 6. I went with the clutchmasters stage 2 as the SHO is a tad heavier than a stock Mazda 6 so I wanted a little extra bite. But my pedal feel is plenty heavy, but you quickly get accustomed to it.

 

[KickerBeast]

Cool, I figured that the salvage yard would be where I would need to look. I'll call around this week and get some quotes. What did you do about the pilot bearing? Is there already a recess in the crank you can put one in? Thanks again for all the info. I'm going to take lots of pics as I go. I think I'm going to go with a stage 2 clutch as well. I found an upgraded gearset for the trans at horsepowerfreaks.com. It's $800 so I'm going to wait to do that until I decide if I'm going to do a turbo setup too. That probably won't be for another year.

 

[venom]

Cool, I figured that the salvage yard would be where I would need to look. I'll call around this week and get some quotes. What did you do about the pilot bearing? Is there already a recess in the crank you can put one in? Thanks again for all the info. I'm going to take lots of pics as I go. I think I'm going to go with a stage 2 clutch as well. I found an upgraded gearset for the trans at horsepowerfreaks.com. It's $800 so I'm going to wait to do that until I decide if I'm going to do a turbo setup too. That probably won't be for another year.

There is no pilot bearing, I was under that assumption when in the planning phases as well so don't feel alone. The Input shaft does not connect to the crank directly in any way. If you don't space the MTX off of the block that .250" and find some other way to account for the extra crank protrusion on the V8 compared to the Duratec V6's I believe the input shaft still clears even without any spacer.

You will need to "homebrew" your clutch disc alignment tool, as the one that may be included is designed for a smaller recess in the crank. I found a socket that fit the V8 crank smoothly on the backside and with about two even rounds of masking tape fit snugly enough on the alignment tool to allow me to use that to align the clutch disc before bolting the pressure plate down tight.

Here is a pic showing the homebrew alignment tool I worked up:

http://www.venom.org/shofiles/project_rowboat/PICT2827.JPG

Scott

 

[KickerBeast]

Very nice. Is your plate on top of the factory spacer plate or did it take the place of it? I found a gen 2 pedal set on here that I'm going to buy the end of this week. I still have to do some calling around to see if anyone in town can me that axles. We have a place that does custom driveline stuff, so I'm hoping they can handle it. I'm going to start picking up the $50 or less items as I can.

 

[venom]

Very nice. Is your plate on top of the factory spacer plate or did it take the place of it? I found a gen 2 pedal set on here that I'm going to buy the end of this week. I still have to do some calling around to see if anyone in town can me that axles. We have a place that does custom driveline stuff, so I'm hoping they can handle it. I'm going to start picking up the $50 or less items as I can.

The .250" thick Al plate is in place of the approx .070" Factory plate. Best guesstimate puts the V6 crank about .200" further off the block than the V8 Crank. So when you Add the .200 and the .070 that the factory plate accounts for I decided the .250" by itself was about right.

 

[Pro*banshee]

What if you just cut off that little extra lip on the end of the crank?

That's what the 2.5>3.0 L contour guys do

 

[venom]

I wish....

What if you just cut off that little extra lip on the end of the crank?

That's what the 2.5>3.0 L contour guys do

The crank "protrusion" issue between the 3.4 and 2.5 isn't a Lip. The threaded face of the crank that the flywheel bolts up against is about .200" further off of the casting on the 3.4 than the same measurement on the 2.5 It would be interesting to see the lower block girdle of the 2.5 beside the 3.4 to see if the difference is purely in the outer wall of the block casting , which may be thicker on the 2.5 as a total guess, or if the cranks are different from the last rod journal to the rear end of the crank....

Dunno where the difference is between the two but there is a difference.

Scott

 

[KickerBeast]

I may be ditching the 5 speed project to go with a completely different car, but i'm still in the research phases. I'll let ya know if I go forward with it.